civ104

One thing I've noticed on this thread is that I'm not quite the oldest. I won't turn 65 for another 3 weeks and when my May '70 Z was built I was a few hundred miles south on the island of Okinawa flying two daily missions to the Gulf of Tonkin. I fell in love with the new Z when I saw it at the Nissan dealership where I was having my 1600 roadster serviced. It took me another ten years to get my first Z, and I'm on my third one now, always early Series I cars.

It appears that the gasket set for the 260Z was 11044-P3004. That's what is listed as 260Z exclusive.

Looks like Nissan Part #'s 11044-E3100 thru 3102 were the head gasket sets for the E31 head assy.

Had my pulley do the same thing. Managed to get another from Danny's datsuns. I really have never, over the time of owning three different early 240's, had that happen to me before. Now it's all moot because I'm putting an L-28 in, although I'll use that pulley to replace the oversized pulley from the 280ZX. Hopefully, I'll be putting the car back on the road sometime in the early spring. :classic:

I'd certainly entertain at least one set. Keep us apprised of your progress.

What type Enkeis are they? I may be interested. :stupid:

Get a Holley Red top. Max 7 PSI and a rotary type.

Not to change the subject, but my favorite retro Enkeis are the Enkei 90. Those are what I had on my late lamented Corvette Bright Yellow 70 240Z.

I really can't remeber, but I believe you'll find that the wheels originally had a gold mesh center and are Enkei 92's.

So the real question is... should I keep it or remove it ? I've been running the Pertronix with the Pertronix coil in my 70 240 with no problems for over two years without the resistor in the circuit. Very dependable and no downside other than it doesn't look quite so stock.

Try Glenfiddich, Glenmorangie, Glenlivet , or Macallan. All are very good highland single malts, not overly expensive. The second or fourth would be most appreciated as a gift.

If it got hard; I mean so it would crack under stress, it never would have been used on aircraft. Maybe under extreme stress or wrapping it too many times, it would feel hard, but it ordinarilly(sp?) won't harden up.

It's not quite authentic, but if I were to be attempting to rewrap the wiring harnesses. I would use a self vulcanizing tape, which I think is what the Eastwood offering is. In the Air Force, it was known as F-4 tape because it could be used in many different ways. I've been able to repair a burst radiator hose with the stuff, I think that was on one of my roadsters or the 510 I had so long ago. Scotch has a couple of versions of the stuff, but as I said, most aren't that authentic, due to the fact most of the tapes I have used have a colored stripe right in the middle of it. Just looked at the Eastwood tape and that is exactly what I was talking about. It's a type of self vulcanisintape, and when you remove it, it's more like cutting the casing off a cable than unwrapping tape. :classic:

Here they are: http://www.atk-engines.com/

Check for corrosion around the light sockets. Also, if it has happened suddenly, get a multimeter and check for shorts to ground in the circuit.

Racer X. 26%

I'll try and take a couple of pictures of my stock setup before I plunk the L28 and 5 speed into the Z and have to revise everything. I'll post them if I can get them.

Another source for covers and cushions is Banzai Motorworks in Upper Marlboro, MD. Call Mike McGinnis at (301) 420-4200 or visit his website at http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

Alan, Now that you have reminded me, I remember thinking how much the Patrol engine reminded me of the Chevrolet or GMC big sixes of the day. And of course you are right about the displacement of that engine. It was very large for a domestic engine, but of course a four wheel drive vehicle wanted gobs of torque and nothing gives that as much as big CC's.

Alan, I seem to remember that in the early 60's; the Nissan Patrol had an inline six. I t may not have been an L series engine, but if I recall my years up in Hokkaido during that time, it sure looked like an OHC or maybe just an OHV (overhead valve) engine.

Actually, The L-Series engine started out as a four, in the domestic Japan market Bluebird, the U.S. modeled 510. The Datsun engineers just extended the 1600 four by 2 cylinders and revised the intake and exhaust. A very effective way to get an engine to market quickly and with known strength and power.

Those ar the original codes for the one sided keys on the early (Series 1) 240Z's. They were for the ignition only.

My old four speed is making some very strange noises and I think its time to build up my L-28 and mate it to a ZX 5 speed and swap out all of it at one time. I know I have to use 280 clutch components, but something in the back of my mind says I also have to change out a structural piece. I know about the mod to the transmission tunnel but what am I forgetting? :paranoid:

The door key for my 1970 240Z is the original single sided key and has only a 4 digit number. The ignition key, also the single sided type, has 2 letters with 4 digits as it's code.

Even though this discussion has evolved into a discourse of the switches and how to solve problems with them; I'm still convinced that the problem lies not in my combination switch, but the wiring from the switch to the interconnecting receptacles in the under dash wiring,