240260280z

For initial it is just the timing at idle (800 to 1000rpm) using the timing light. Do you need to set up the carbs too?

Try 15 degrees initial timing with no vacuum advance. Don't go over 38 at max. Do you know what the mechanical advance is on your distributor?

Here are products. http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/protective-coatings/conformal/ You could melt wax over the parts too as a quick and dirty,

Hi All, I have revised the engine planning tool on our club's website (attached). Please take it for a spin and if possible, provide corrections to the data and also suggestions for more data. It is attached below. You should be able to save to your desktop and open with your browser. FYI just type in the green blocks if you want to manually override any value. Philip S30 Engine Modeller V2 Beta 1.html

Yup. I'm planning to start building some Z motors. We have quite a few in our Z barn so if the 88mm piston works out then it should be a reasonable build. The race shop that will do the machining has an engine dyno so I'll get some benchmarks.

Some pictures of a 71 and 73 here. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40844-1971-240z-license-plate-lamp-photos/

I bet it was painful! btw I have a mustang TB for you. Want me to mail it or wait until you and Rene visit us or we go there

you could coat it with polyurethane or silicon to seal it.

That should be in every automotive and aerospace welding manual. No one will forget it

Kurby, CCA are just making their first L28 plate next week. I may purchase it. Steve yup the machinists have measured differences with and without the plate installed. Newer techniques even pump the block with hot water to operating temperature. I plan to do quite a few 88mm and 89mm over bores over the next few years and sell some motors so it is a needed investment. ZH, for the head, the cam can be relieved by the tower bolts when it is torqued to the block. Not much else can be done w/o a long boring tool and boring new towers when installed on the block or over-boring and sleeving existing towers. Yup BHIP are très cher ($$$$)

~500-600 locally. I'm looking at one of these ~450 and probably better made: http://www.ccaracing.com/product1.htm

I think you will be ok with temperature. Just let it cool between hits and make sure the electrical path is not through the bearings.

Diving head first into a few motor builds. Trying to do it right. I figured I'd ask around before approaching a machine shop. Thanks!

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4966042617.html

Beautiful Moelk! Blue w White is pretty. Looks like Dunlop Princess Margaret wheels? The front valence with blanked lights and the upper turn indicators on the bumpers is unique. I guess the lack of Datsun on the fenders/wings is also Euro spec. ? What is the device on the rear bumper below the plate? What about all of the electrics on the passenger inner fender? Looks interesting.

I can see the rear passenger tail light on two of 3 buried cars. And that is all I can see.

Fake ruler:

Some interesting tools now seem to be available from autozone. Example: http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/valve-spring-tester http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/top-dead-center-stop-tool http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/piston-ring-tool/proform-12-volts-electric-piston-ring-filer/525530/?_requestid=10232353 http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/valve-seal-tool/comp-cams-valve-seal-installation-tool/892690_0_0/

Remove valve cover, pull plugs, then crank with remote starter. Watch oil flow to rule it out. If you are getting good oil on that lobe/rocker, then it is most likely the rocker. This sadly happened to me not so long ago: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47101-cam-wear/ Here are some observations: Contact area is OK and it is "cheated" for more lift. As the lobe rocks across the rocker surface, it starts parallel (raising valve) but finishes (lowering valve) with more pressure on the firewall side of the rocker. The radiator side seems to be ground lower from the middle of the contact patch to the passenger side of the contact patch and the finishing pattern is not parallel to the starting pattern. This is also evident in the wear on the cam lobe's valve lowering face being more to the firewall side.

What emulsion tube do you have?

Fuel Pump Upgrade (Optional post-sale fix... not on all 73's): Reference:1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf

Radio (Antenna & Speakers) Harness:

Back Harness: 1973 Wiring Harness Back.zip

Dash Harness: 1973 Wiring Harness Dash.zip