240260280z

yes, that is why I suggest testing lash pads at the "hot lash spacing" even though the motor is cold when testing as that is the same spacing where the car will work when hot.... so you are simulating a hot gap without the heat

Assemble cold lash before you start the car but the cam will be wiped hot so you should replicate it when setting lash pad height. Maybe I am wrong on this but I am assuming that reproducing the hot lash is correct and more accurate.

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-34298259

lightly oil the cam and just use a permanent marker on the ends of the rocker pad. You just need to see where the wipe starts and stops. You can use softer springs or just one spring for just this procedure if wear is too worrying.... then when the wipes are good put the regular springs in. You can check the wipe pattern in this sequence: 1. Oil/assembly lube all rockers and cam lobes. 2. Back off rocker pivot bolt all the way down for all rockers 3. Start with cylinder 1 Exhaust Rocker... Turn cam so that the lobe is up. 4. Set the hot lash...yup...hot. 5. Wipe oil off just the ends of the rocker pad. 6. Cover the ends of the rocker pad with marker. 7. rotate cam and watch it wipe 8. Verify what you observed by inspecting what was wiped off (marker remaining) 9 Repeat 11 more times

https://news.classiccars.com/nissan-show-11th-annual-japanese-classic-car-show/

https://news.classiccars.com/japanese-classic-car-show-holds-11th-annual-event-weekend/

http://autoomobile.com/news/nissan-z-bleak-future-teased-in-frankfurt/10029236/

http://www.prweb.com/releases/KellyNicholsRacesto/HelpFightKidsCancer/prweb12951191.htm

http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2015/09/10/141220-11th-annual-japanese-classic-car-show-long-beach-california.html

http://www.motoroids.com/features/photo-feature-a-journey-through-history-at-datsun-nissan-heritage-car-garage-in-zama-japan/

http://home.bt.com/lifestyle/motoring/motoring-features/uks-favourite-classic-cars-inspire-beautiful-retro-posters-11364003845128

I agree, it could have been Crashtor Moldanado

Looked like brake failure... no one drives like that into a corner.

I found it! Honsowetz: Glue compressed fibre, reusable pan gasket to oil pan with weatherstrip adhesive. Coat the block side of the gasket with antiseize compound.

I read about permanently gluing the gasket to the pan with RTV or similar then using a non curing on the gasket to block... it was a racer's tip to facilitate easy removal, inspection, re-installation,

ok I'll put them all up.

The Specials are from Coventry Nice!!!

Hi Charles, We have a huge pile of 510 parts in or Zbarn. PM me with what you need and I'll have a look.

I think all documents have been scanned. I seem to have digitized FSM's for every year. The problem is file size and the forum softwares' ability to load the big files. I plan to have a new tech tips site going soon! It will have a Z library Stand by

Mighty!!!

You could also adapt a later ecu which has a microprocessor to the cars sensors and have fun: http://ipdown.net/jetronic.info/tiki-index.php?page=Ostrich%20Install

Something like this may get you into trouble http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMC-Jeep-Renault-L-Jetronic-TA-4139-Diagnostic-Adapter-8981320758-/360967942731

It is do-able. I think some old Ljetronic diagnostic tools did this to some extent w/o the logging. I also believe Innovate LM1 and other w/b models have an aux input where you can connect voltage inputs. Current to voltage and frequency to voltage sensors could be adapted to also drive this when needed.