240260280z

I have reassembled ~ 10 stock heads using my trusty Sears valve spring compressor however, the wider Schneider spring retainers prevent the tool from working next to the cam towers. The increased spring forces of the stronger springs also made in challenging. In the end I had to go backwards a few steps. Here is what I recommend for others who find this post in the future: 1. Remove cam towers 2. Remove rocker pivot bolts 3. Adjust the tool so that you do not have to change the vice handle tensioner: Set the pin so that you can press it against the valve face,at the other end you can then press the springs down with your thumbs to walk the fork over the spring retainer. 4. Have a magnet on hand to help move the keepers as needed. 5. WEAR EYE PROTECTION FYI finding a valve keeper launched towards the back of the room full of stuff is no fun....twice.

Assembling engine. Just wanted a check on my assumptions where I should use red loctite: 1. Crank Bolt 2. Flywheel Bolts 3. Pressure Plate Bolts 4. Oil pick-up bolts 5. PCV-tube-mesh plate screws

You can replace all 3 at once but if the wheel is off the ground, just replace one at a time to save a headache.

BCCD also reduces high vaccum that will draw oil into the cylinders. (when throttle valve closes at high RPM's)

Yeah I hear ya. I did a water pump on a bimmer...lots of plastic bits and strange convoluted methodology to remove it. I also did the brakes... impressive but weird.... the pads have a huge thick chunk of material nearly twice as thick as Japanese pads (very nice) but having to hold the wheel up against the hub as you inserted the wheel bolts is no fun.

Keep up the cool work!

Not recommended. You need 3 hands. It is one of the integrated shoes/pads/drum/rotor/hat. It is the strangest assembly of springs, clips, hard-to-get-to parts that I have ever worked on. Even stranger is that the adjuster sprocket and the bottom spring.They actually share the same point in space. I don't know who designed the brake mechanism however the many access holes in the hub seem to point to an attempted corrective action by the hub designer.

That's the mom from toy story moving the stiffs.

Research: http://www.google.ca/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=&q=240zvs.miata&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&aqi=g-v1g-b5&aql=&oq=

Wish I had that twirler when I did the brake and fuel lines!

Sad day:(

Move the tires front to back and see if it changes.

For reference: I paid $1000 to have a set installed.

If you want to increase acceleration from a stop: Reduce Weight (gut everything) Grip (wide soft sticky tires) Inertia for launch (hefty flywheel) Mechanical advantage are rear wheel (differential ratio) More power from motor (headwork or or over-boring or swapping ) Exhaust or throttle body won't do it.

Priceless and concise

For these motors, most HP is in the head. A header and intake will give you a little but head work and cam is what you will have to do. A good coated header will set you back $300 to $1000 A good efi intake will cost $300-$600 You can upgrade the EFI and tune for more HP but that is more complex and $$$$. The only other way for easy HP is to swap out the motor for a 280zx turbo motor. The cheapest horsepower is simply to press further on the pedal and run ~1,000 to 2,000 rpms above where you normally drive.

get a 2nd head, cam, valve job, port it.

I did 80 miles in the back of a gen1 RX7 and 1 mile on the deck of a Fiero and ~.5 mi hanging on to the rear bumpers of various oil trucks in the icy snowy winters of Newfoundland. That rear seat looks like pure luxury!

on the drift wood and cute pup smiling in each photo.

The doc first thought I had gottaphilia but it turned out to be feelyaphilia. He says I probably caught it when I was a teen.

Ahhh... the 80's... I was there:

Use a piezoelectric sensor (~ $3) to capture mechanical sounds through direct contact. - injectors - block - head - timing chain - shifter - column switches - window mechanism - etc

Intake manifold mating surface must be checked for flatness You may need shimming washers to distribute the clamping force from the common nuts that secure both the intake manifold and the exhaust. Generally if the thickness of the intake or exhaust is significantly thicker than the other, it must be addressed.

Get Google Chrome Browser and AdBlock extensions. I see nothing but Z's.