240260280z

You will next buy an O2 unit ..... do not resist the force

Seems like your rear differential mount has failed.

Go to the kitchen department of any Target or dollar store and get the anti-slip placemat rubber stuff that comes in a roll. No need to glue, rivet, velcro, nail or other at all. It looks like this and comes in many colours

Diplomatic words spoken by someone who is torn between offending Porsche owners and Z owners.

Even beating the stig's namesake from top gear results:http://www.eastafricansafarirally.com/2011/Results%20EASCR%202011%20-%20%20Unofficial%20Provisional%20Classification%20Day%208.pdf

I have read that kyb's and lowering springs have problems but you will have to measure excursions to ensure that this is not internet wives tales. If you have issues, you can install 280z rear shock mounts to increase strut extension. Maybe double up bump stops too if and strut compressing too far is the problem.

~14.5" is norm in early 70's for unsprung front and rear. 8.5turns in front and 10.5 in the rear. The rear spring in the photo is 8 turns so 2.5 coils and ~3.5"(extrapolated as 2.5/10.5) seem to be missing......so they look like cut stock rear springs. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/springs/index.html

No need to mess with the AFM idle bypass (black cap) at this time. Its purpose is for emissions at idle. If you have a multimeter, you can measure the resistance of the temp sensor at the thermostat then measure it where it connects to the ECU at the driver kick panel. The resistance should be similar.

I read about a mechanic who hid foam in the air filter enclosure to "de-rate" the motor. After his son drove for half a year, his father took the car and "tuned" the car by removing the hidden foam and giving it an extra 50hp.His son was amazed at his father's abilities.

Read through these and you will find teh details you need,especially the diode Steve mentions1 (Happy Thanksgiving Steve) http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/260z_alternator_swap_706058.0.html http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/280zx_260z_alternator_swap_703972.0.html http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/260z_special_wiring_alternator_swap_701092.0.html

I did a 74 but never posted the details. Most of the info is here. I recall having to solder in a diode. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

On 280z's, a common problem are the electrical connections in the EFI system. The main culprit for fuel fouled plugs is the pigtail to the temperature sensor at the thermostat housing. Read these two links and you will understand better. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/runningrich/index.html (read the stuff below the dyno graph) http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html You should also use NGK plugs.

Sometimes it is the ignition module that is the cause of this. Watch the tach the next time it chuggs to a stop.If the needle drops to 0 before the engine does then it is an electrical ignition problem.

Aftermarket door switches but you get the idea: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43775-Door-Switch-Photos&highlight=article+door+switch

Clubs have so many different members that you don't have to worry about that. Here is what I have noticed in clubs: 1. Core "buddies" who keep it going. 2. Folks you see once then never again 3. Ricers 4. Racers (Track, drag,circle) 5. Hawkers who have parts for sale (most are extremely generous with support and sharing knowledge but you get the occasional profit driven greedy person but hey,... they can get the goods so in the end it is bearable.) 6. Professionals who bring their (usually) free support to help club members (machinists, lawyers, heavy machinery, insurance,enginneers auto-industry (painting, repairs, shop owners, Nissan garage owners,Dyno owners). 7. Crazies 8. Lurkers 9. Average Joes/Josephines It is beneficial to join a club in a logical opportunistic way to tap into all of the above opportunities but it is more satisfying if you also have something to bring... it is a socialist, communist, symbiotic, parasitic thing with democracy thrown in for the executive stuff Can't beat that mix!

My Z had similar numbers when I got it and ran "ok". Adjusting the valves, and de-carboning the chambers may help bump up compression an additional ~10-15psi. If you are not losing rad fluid, if the plugs look ok, if the oil looks ok, and there are no unusual sounds then you should be good. FYI white smoke at start-up is usually 3 things: 1. overnight condensation in your exhaust system evaporating 2. water vapor from the combustion process condensing due to the cold exhaust system. 3. water vapor from the combustion process condensing due to the cold ambient air (more pronounced on cold mornings (especially in winter)). Once the exhaust system comes up to temperature, the white smoke decreases. Unless you see white smoke all the time and are losing radiator fluid, don't worry.

Join a local club. Lots of enthusiasts who can help you out or recommend good shops. The problem with these cool old cars is that most shops don't take the care required,or give a d@mn to properly diagnose and repair.Quite often they just butcher.

Read all 5 pages of this thread then Google DIY Zinc Plating http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/65465/1

Find one that says "Made in Japan".

CLICK

You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?160-1971-240z-License-Plate-Lamp-Photos