240260280z

Looks great!

Use ospho or any other phosphoric acid on the external block rust, wash off after 24hrs with a mild solvent then paint with engine block paint. it is good to get an off-the shelf paint so that you can tough-up years down the road. Do not por the block

it was a great derail because I never knew of MegaJolt JR. I was reading about MegaSquirt a few days ago and wondering about using it for spark only. Now a fun project for the winter.

I read that the Z31 front rotors used for the swap in NA are " 11" " so that is 279.4mm But I also found this: http://www.s-chassis.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21575 300zx 84-86 Z31 250x20mm 258x9mm NA 84-85 Z31 274x20mm 290x9mm all models 86 Z31 274x20mm 290x9mm NA 84-86 Z31 274x20mm 290x9mm turbo 87-89 Z31 274x20mm 290x18mm NA 87-89 Z31 280x24mm 282x18mm turbo

Stock wiring in the car. I Never removed current limiting resistors...maybe i should have installed one? On a bench test I used 1 amp 12V wall-wart charger but too little current to run the gauge it would go to ~ 1/2. I did a quick check using battery and got full scale so good to go... and all worked fine in the car but then they danced around and slowly danced to below the F then stopped.

71 240z resto. I cleaned with deoxit bench tested the gauge, installed and it lasted for 20min then stuck open. I removed the gauge (thanks Escalon!) disassembled, filed the contacts, re-installed, it lasted for 20min then stuck open. I swapped in the workings from a 280z gauge, did not touch the contacts , it lasted for 20min then stuck open. It there something I am not doing? Sender is fine at 10ohms to 70ohms. Wiring is fine.

Thanks Lazeum. That is the data I wanted to see. 140 to 130 raised your AFR by 1 point. I should do the same and try a 115. Stephen, I'll accept your offer and PM my contact info. I bought 55F9's and 60F9's based on your data. Mine ran rich and richer. But I ran into 3 problems (Murphy's Law) while on the road testing so I'll go again next weekend and post the data. I just put the 175 fuel needles in and the Solex FPR. THANKS!

try 20 degree initial timing and see if you idle smooths out you may have to retard more at heavy load/wot but it made a big difference for my tuning yesterday

presently 40DCOE151 125 main 170 corrector F11 emulsion 30mm Choke 4,000 RPM 11.5 Air/Fuel 6,000 RPM 10.5 Air/Fuel 240z L24 270 cam I am thinking that a switch to 115 may lean it towards 12.5 at 4k and at the same time tip the the high end back at 6k. Any suggestions?

Beautiful work Guy.

Total travel at the tip of the rod on the slave cylinder.

It seems like the throw on the slave is not enough. You should be able to have a friend press the clutch pedal and you can watch it move by simply looking down through the engine compartment next to the battery. I think the throw on my 77 280z was ~ 35mm of movement (~1.4").Check this then report back to the post.

Take it to a garage and have them adjust the clutch pedal free-play and slave throw (from the pedal location)

Do two things: 1. Bleed the clutch properly. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/clutchbleed/index.html 2. Adjust push rod/ clevis linkage under the dash http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/clutchfreeplay/index.html

Schematic for Brake Light Path (not turn light path and not hazard path)

You may wish to stick this fuel damper/regulator inline to your carbs: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/b26570.htm

Repair and Tuning Document karburatorweber_ang.pdf

Early DCOE Exploded Drawing DCOE_Configurations.pdf

Weber Repair Manual Weber_Repair_Document.pdf

Experimental Vacuum Advance Paper Weber DCOE Fuel Economy Study.pdf

Weber Tuning Manual WeberTuningManual.pdf

Weber Rebuild and Tuning Manual for Performance Power Tuning Webers.pdf

cooooooolllllllllllllllllllllllll! Digression: I just stumbled across this and never new about it: MkII variant of the Daytona Coupe called the "super coupe" with a "scoop" in the rear: http://www.motorsportscenter.com/printer_808.shtml

Yes I understand. In fact just last night I read a section from "How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors" (SpeedPro Series) by Des Hammill. The section on choosing and tuning idle jets is exactly what I concluded above... convergence is a good thing. Basically he says to choose jets for cruise at progression and for power transitions through progression then address the idle. I'll post some of my internet vacuuming finds in a new post.

THANKS! I have been thinking more about your words and it suddenly occurred to me that the idle and the progression do interact however tuning at idle seems illogical as the car must be tuned to run, not to idle AND because the idle enrichment screw can fudge things. I think tuning by addressing the progression and cruise first is the best way to start. Fudging air/fuel mix with the enrichment screw at idle and throttle plate is sort of backwards because at cruise, the idle jet should not be significantly feeding the motor. In theory at cruise, the jet and the progression holes AND the throttle plate are the only significant components and the throttle plate will fall where it naturally does to provide x amount of air at cruise.... so by cruising, one can alter the jets to get the right a/f mix then go after the idle. In fact it would be interesting to try to tune with the enrichment screws closed completely and just use the throttle plate opening to pull from the first prog hole. If the car will idle like this then a quick cruise with A/F monitoring will tell whether the idle jet is too rich or lean.