Everything posted by 240ZX
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ZVOITURE
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Gaggle of Z's
- 3 Z's
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My_Z_008
That's got to be the first time I've ever seen a choke cable bracket. I've always wondered what the additional threaded boss was for, now I know! By the way! Nice ride......red Z cars always get me going!!!
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poor kitty
I think I've figured it out!!! This is a picture of a Mexican Hairless at a Haloween party wearing Uhg boots and a kitty mask. Ya, that's it!!!! Sure looks pissed off!!!!
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Injection system
Fentin_Fury, Maybe you should PM allknowingbald1 for some pocket change!!! ROFL
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What's it worth?????????
Frans, As most members will tell you, you can never really know a car's condition just by looking at a few pictures. From what I can see from the post, the 73 Z looks pretty nice. However, old Z cars have a lot of places the rust monster can be hiding out, just out of sight. Now if all of the statments are true, like 59,000 original miles (which could actually be 159,000 or 259,000 miles) and no rust, then the car is likely worth the current bid of $7100.00 The safest way is to personally view and drive the car before plunking down the cash. Oh, and have someone who really knows early Z cars go with you. Hope this helps you out a little!!!
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LSIR SCCA Fall Classic
Nice play toy you have there. The smile on your face is a dead give-a-way to how much fun you have with it!!! By the way, is that Steve's striped Z, behind and to the left??? I thought I saw a wine bottle there somewhere.
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My 240Z, Sydney Harbour Bridge
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2000GT Toyota
Very cool and collectable, for sure!!! However, I still prefer the looks of the series one Z cars. Nice shot.
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2000GT Toyota
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my 75-280
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The Male Brain Revealed
Hah!!! Now I know why my brain feels so wiggley. I used to think it might have been a problem..........guess not. ROFL
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Electrical death!
Well jon1fox, Sounds like the old corrosion monster has finally overwhelmed your electrical system. This is a common thing with the older Z's. The basic problem is that corrosion has gotten so bad especially the connectors, that it creates high resistance in the circuits and like yours has gotten so bad that the wiring can no longer handle the current and then a wire fries. So, now you will likely become very familiar with the electrical system on an early Z, if you choose to tackle the problem yourself. So you want to ask yourself.....do I have the skills, knowledge, and tools required to do the task? If you do, you already know what's ahead. If you don't feel confident in doing it yourself, take it to someone who is very familiar with these systems. It is time consuming to trouble shoot and will cost you some $$$. Sorry to hear about your Z but there are no easy answers to pin point your problem, in my opinion. Hopefully, some of the guys here will pitch in with some additional advise. Good luck!
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question about seatbelt harness
Thanks for the prompt reply. To be a little more specific on what I am hoping for would be as follows: Main hoop to attach behind the seats on the beefy part of the pan, Rear diagonal support from the main hoop down to the strut towers, a cross support between the two diagonal supports (tower to tower), and a diagonal support from the main hoop (drivers side) down to the main hoop attach point (passenger side). As I understand it, besides rollover protection, this setup will reduce the rear chassis flex that typically causes the classic "C" pillar cracks. I'm quessing that if an assembled one was shown in a nice color picture, they might sell quite well. I know I would be sending off a check for one. Thanks again Aanand
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question about seatbelt harness
Aanand, Regarding the bolt-in rollcage from Rick Freeman @ Rebello, can you post a couple of pics of the cage? I'm would be interested in one. I'm mostly concerned with the attach points to the chassis. Most of the rollbars I've seen (Autopower) attach to the fender well sheetmetal. This never made much sense to me. Thanks in advance!!! Tom
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83 turbo engine
Call it a hunch, but I think she likes blue, guys. Hey deedee, you sould be commended for jumping in and getting your hands dirty and trying to improve your car. Keep at it!
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Awsome car!!!!!!!
Come on guys, someone loves this car!!! ROFL The owner is not likely to identify theirself after they read these posts! Let's face it, some people's taste is in their mouth.:tapemouth Like Arizona240z said, at least it's not a Z
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My little stash...
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2001 Fairlady
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What are you running
ZmeFly's question is a good one to ask yourself! Personally, I agree with him on handling. With the modifications I've done to my 240, it now goes around corners really well! Lightyears better than it ever did in stock trim. Here's what I did to my Z. All struts shortened 1 1/2", GC coilovers with 200 lbs x 10" up front and 275 lbs x 8" in the rear, urethane bushings throughout, GC street camber plates on all four corners. Tokico non-adjustables, strut tower braces front and rear, 1" front 3/4" rear anti-rollbars, 1" bumpsteer spacers, and quik-steer steering arms. Now, your average person would say it's way to harsh of a ride (especially with 40 series 17s), but if you desire the ride of an SUV....buy an SUV!!! If you want a car that really corners.............then mod your Z to handle and you will likely never be concerned about the extra stiffness. You will however, enjoy an incredible amount of fun stuffing it into and around corners. NOTE: DON'T FORGET TO UPGRADE YOUR BRAKES!!!
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EProd SCCA Race
Oh yahhhhhhhhhhh!!! I also watched the E PROD race and was really excited to see some old 240's kicking butt on newer iron, especially Greyson who seemed to be the strongest runner until he got a little too excited in one corner.......can you say, oops!!! I'm sure his verbage was a bit different than oops however. Oh well, P2 is not quit like P1 but better than a DNF. Loved it!!!!!
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Geee Nose
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1971 240z
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same z and me
You gotta love those red 240's!!! Car looks great! Your antenna looks like you are still going 125mph............................ All kidding aside, you should be proud. Nice classic look.