240ZX

SER240Z, I have no drawing but a description. Basically, a relay has a high voltage side (+ and -) and a low voltage side (+ and -). The High voltage side typically takes power directly from a battery to the component you wish to energize. The low voltage side does nothing more than close the circuit on the high voltage side when you activate your switch, via electro-magnetic energy from a coil to close a set of contacts. The low voltage side is the coil and the contacts are the high voltage side. The whole ideal behind a relay is to keep high voltage wiring out of the cockpit. Hope this helps a little.

Hey Symon, Thanks for the input! Tom

Tourniqet, I put one of the electric fan kits, from MSA, on my 1970 Z. It is installed on the back side of my stock radiator, as per the Perma-Cool instructions. I used the heat sensor, provided in the kit, and figured the best location for it was right where the water enters the radiator from the engine. This sensor is installed by carefully pushing it in between the cooling fins of the radiator. The sensor triggers a relay to turn the fan on. The relay has an adjustment screw to change the temperature the fan comes on, also. How there are probably better units available on the market but for under $150.00 its was worth a try. I've had it in use since late 2002 and have been more than satisfied.....it's been working perfectly. I live in SoCal so it does get warm here (maybe not like Texas or Arizona). The radiator was recondition at a local radiator shop and I'm running a 50/50 mix of good anti freese and an additive I purchased from a Deisel Truck Supply house that is touted to prevent corosion build up, helps in wetting the coolant fluid (better heat transfer I think), and stops fungus growth!!? Anyway, I said all that so you have a good idea of my cooling system an to say this.......the only time the fan comes on is when I sit an ideal for more than a few minutes. The engine runs cooler than it ever has and I probably drive it harder than I used to. As far as why I installed an electric fan, to free up a little H.P.. How much H.P. gets freed up???? I thought a consevative quess would be a couple %. At the same time I also removed the mechanical fuel pump for an electric unit and removed the heavy stock flywheel for a 13 1/2 lbs. unit. I would have to crunch some numbers to get realistic but as a SWAG I figure the total H.P. that was freed up from all three mods would be maybe 10% Or, at best a 15 H.P. gain (freed up H.P.). Can I feel a difference? I would say most certainly I feel a difference over stock. As far as just the electric fan, I don't know. A wise old guy once told me this, regarding changes......"It's all the little licks that count" One of the nicer effects of the electric fan is that you no longer have to listen to the mechanical fan as you increase RPM.........you know, that FAAAAAAN sound !!! Would I do it all over again....absolutely.

Thanks for the input guys! The wattage rating on the bulbs I will be using are 55/60.....isn't that pretty much the same rating as the stock units? Incorperating a relay is definitely the way to keep the higher current out of the cockpit. Thanks again for your suggestions!

Can anyone offer up an opinions on the replaceable H4 headlight conversion kit from Too Intense Restorations? I'm thinking that under $70.00 is a pretty inexpensive way to seeing better at night!

I have the vertical defrost traces on my 3/70 (s/n 02126) hatch. They don't work of course, but if I removed the old defrost traces, does that mean I'll have a rare rear glass???? (Yah, right!!!) What do you think guys, sjould I leave them or remove them??

Good luck!!! If the louvers are aluminum, were chromed, and are now pitted, then you should just throw them away. A re-chrome job is out of the question. The process used to remove the old chrome is pretty harsh and will completely eat up any aluminum.

You can probably save the J bolts, as you mentioned, if you can split the nuts. A small high speed disc grinder or a nut splitter may be in order, if you have the room! Just remember you're working around a gas tank. Let us know how things turn out.

With the description this guy gives on this "BSR" 280Z, one might tend to think he makes his living as a campaign manager. Basically, he provides a great line of Bull S_ _t!!! I just love the way the "Z Police" (the good folks on this sight that know their stuff about Z casrs) hack these poor fools to death. You just can't pull the wool over the eyes of the "Z Police". Be forwarned...we will search and destroy all bogus Z adds. Resistance is futile....you will be assimilated into the collective Z !!!

Mike, I guess one question still remains......what do you do with the original wiring from the EFI? I have no suggestions, sorry!

Ditto that 2ManyZs

Don't take this as gospel but, logic says yes the exhuast manifold will bolt up to the head and yes the injectors will fit. Also, it's more than likely the turbo injectors are bigger than the std EFI. Remember, this is not based on my experience. I have SU's. I'm sure you will get more responces to your post.

Hey Mike, I was just thinking, if you live in the states you should probably put the ZX's induction system back to stock or you will not pass smog testing. If your fuel pump is F'd up........replace it. It will be less expensive than trying to convert the ZX to carbs!!! Just one man's opinion

Good one Vicky!!! ROFL

You can add.........The Doors, Jimi Hendrix, Black Sabbath (ya gotta love Ozzy), Deep Purple, Jefferson Airplane, Cream, Led Zepplin, Jethro Tull.........................................

Steve, the plate assembly you desire is a readily available item from people like Summit Racing. It's intended use is for adding a remote oil cooler but you can make it work for your sender. P.S. By any chance are you going to the San Bernardino Z event next saturday?