mlc240z

curtis, the minute i read your post, i said "of course, that makes sense". great tip/observation!!

it's got to be a LOT cheaper to fabricate your own. something i was going to do when everything else is done.

it's like the old joke. Q:why do dogs lick their balls? A: because they can!!

Aaaagghhhh!!!! My Eyes, My Eyes!!!

what do you use to flush out the dino lube prior to adding synthetic? do you just fill with flush and drain, or do you fill with flush/run car/ and then drain? i can see taking the cover off the diff and cleaning it out first, but i doubt i want to attempt the same thing with the tranny.

welcome nurse, lotta info on this site, good decent, helpful people too. RN or LPN? married and still in love with an almost-nurse (cardiac holter scanner) for the past 28 years, so I know you're good people.

dust bellows........ from the description of easier to replace when you replace tie rod ends by mechanic, it sounds like they mean the steering rack boots.

if i'm reading this right......... are you sure you're not just feeling the normal compression resistance? with the plugs in, you hopefully will be building up compression pressure in the cylinders. as you rotate past TDC in each cylinder and the exhaust valve starts to open, you should feel it get easier to turn since the pressure is released. rotate further and pressure builds again. if this is what's happening, it sounds normal (and desireable since the resistance=compression) to me.

That's truly a shame. He was a wealth of knowledge and willingly shared it with all on this site. You'll be missed, Carl. PS He's probably still watching over us. You have to chuckle at his sick humor. Donations to the Humane society for a guy named Bambikiller.

i use plastic bins (Rubbermaid etc.). you can pick them up in a variety of sizes, they are reasonably priced, they stack, and they seal fairly well. not airtight unfortunately, but enough to keep the dust and varmints out. ziploc bags inside plastic shoebox size to contain smaller parts, then stack inside a larger bin.

bought the BO-52 for the front bumper mounts and they are an envelope type. looks like a quality repro. they enclose the bracket and provide protection front and back. you might have to do a little trimming of the rubber where it surrounds the nut welded to the bracket so it fits over without too much stretching or distortion.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=163149#post163149 2nd page. not a great pic but i used a piece of plexiglas/clear acrylic and cut to fit. only sprayed with a semigloss black, probably add some kind of texture at some point. it seems to work and kinda/sorta looks like the original.

Mike, where did you get that dog-shaped antenna? nice pic!!

can only give you bathroom scale accuracy but with no halfshafts and no diff oil i weighed it at 59lbs. hope this helps

sorry, ROFLthere's more of us out here than you think. if you like Python, you'll enjoy that post.

try this site: http://store.summitracing.com/ they list the Energy Suspension kit for a 1973Z (assume a US model 1973) at $145US, and show international shipping as an option. check site for shipping costs. i've dealt with them before and can recommend them.

#3060 (fat flange) goes facing the rear on the control arm. make sure to use the grease that comes with the kit to prevent squeaks. apply to inside of arm and on sleeve. if you run out, you can use white lithium grease. also if you have access to a vise, precompress the bushings and sleeve assembly before you try to reattach to car. it will save you alot of sweat and cursing. hope this helps.

hit it with a propane torch to soften the rubber bushing. as you are applying heat push the inner sleeve and bushing out. then, just take a hacksaw and carefully cut thru the outer sleeve. soak with a little PBBlaster, Liquid Wrench or Kroil. once thru (carefully check depth), use a chisel or old screwdriver and hammer to knock out the sleeve. that's the way i did it on my front end.

the 2 brass metal sleeves in the pack act as spacers between the cupped washers to stop the bushings from just sliding around. AFAIK washer against the bolt head, bushing, control arm, bushing, washer, sleeve, washer, bushing, sway bar, bushing, washer, and then nut. someone who has used these might have a better response.

if you don't mind me asking, how much did welding in the floorpans and rails cost you? i'm looking at this job down the road and need an approximate cost.

after i've removed and cleaned (wire wheeled/polished) any bolts, i hit them with a light spritz of clear spray enamel/lacquer/polyurethane. it seems to preserve them and help to prevent any future corrosion.

if it walks like a scumbag, and talks like a scumbag, it's probably a sc......... thanks for the headsup. hopefully the info will help warn in the future.

not too much bending, just small adjustments to change the angle and keep it parallel with the cover.

from what i remember in my ZT kit, yes. floats will adjust to same height, but might require a little more fussing with to keep the float tops parallel with the chamber covers.

adjust the floats to the correct height regardless of the pivot height. IIRC, there are three sizes/lengths to the 'ears' that hold the pivot pin. the kit should have extra washers to build up the needle valve if you need to.