zclocks

This is a great topic especially if your looking for a trickle battery charger or one to replace a dead charger. I had the tan 5 AMP charger pictured for over 40 years and it finally died. Well my neighbor helped by hosing down the charger with water. Anyway, Instead of replacing the diodes I just tossed the charger and started looking for a new one, what a shock. I tried three new charges that died before I went looking for a SEARS unit like my old charger. I found the two Sears charges as pictured on eBay. The 5 AMP is my " go to" and the 6/2 AMP is a backup. These are very heaving duty, work all the time and never overcharge the battery. I had to change the power cords and the battery clamps, but this is the only charger I will use. You can find them on eBay for no more $ than the newer chargers that are JUNK! SEARS use to contract different company's to build quality products , but that time has long passed. The garbage we see today is from CHINA! end rant

View Advert Quartz clocks If you have either of these two Quartz clocks and would like to sell them please contact me at: ron@zclocks.com or PM me . Thanks Advertiser zclocks Date 03/06/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 0 Model 280

View Advert Clocks wanted If you have either of the 280z or 280zx Analog Quartz clocks shown please PM or email me. Thanks....Ron Advertiser zclocks Date 11/19/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 77 Model 280

Ha Ha!! I'm laughing cause I have the same problem and I'm older than you. Thank god I have a pull out radio.

Looking at the two side by side looks like the the switch labeling is different in Z Excellence car than mine. Mine matches my manual.

I did get a photo after mega contortions, but my 75( 1/75) is connected as per the manual. D1 hose to D1 on valve and "I "hose to " I "on valve. "T" connection is from D1

If you can remove it maybe it can be repaired. Never heard of one going bad , but after 44 years who knows.

Not really. I've had my car for 40 YEARS and still finding more rabbit holes to explore.

The D1 and " I " looks like they are interchanged. I'm going to look at mine and mark them with my label maker. This is something else I have never seen. I will check mine out tomorrow and take a photo. Ron

Good catch Zed... I have a 75 and this is what the manuals says . The "T" in the vacuum line should be connected to the D1 on the vac switch , but is connected to I.

You might try zKars on this site. He does a lot of work on Zcars and has a big stash of parts. Ron

The small gear has 11 teeth and the larger has 64. Both deteriorate over the years without maintenance and they are not available anywhere. Would you be interested in selling your clocks for parts?

Failure of CO is usually high fuel delivery, excess fuel. I have a CA 75 and it has always run rich. I would usually lean out the AFM and that would usually do the trick. Also, check your PCV valve and make sure it's working and not stuck. OOPS, didn't see zed's comment. That's a good idea to drive it at HWY speeds for 10 miles or more before going to smog .

If you going to replace the pump be advised that the aftermarkets don't seem to last . The last one I bought was $95, lasted 7 months, and was only used for about 20 starts. The first after market pump only lasted one year. The OEM pump may be costly but it lasts. Also, the after markets don't fit like the OEM and you have to make several modifications. Yes, 1/2 inch hose from tank to pump , but make sure you use FI hose out of the pump to the fuel damper like Zed said.

This is the location of the FI relay

Hey Zed, So the 76 has the same fuel pump shut off as the 75? Wasn't aware of that.

I This is the way I do it. 1) jack up your car , pull you battery out of the car , place it as close to the rear of the car, and using wire with alligator clips on each end connect the battery to the fuel pump. No need to disconnect fuel pump wire. There are two connections on the pump, one is larger than the other. The larger connection is the (- or ground) and the other is the +12vdc. This method just checks the pump operation. 2) The second method is open your rear hatch place your meter where you can read it from the drivers seat. Use jumper wire with alligator clips and connect to the fuel pump. Using extra hookup wire you have laying around to extend the wire to the test leads of your meter. Disconnect the spade connector( see previous pix of starter) that goes to your solenoid of the starter(so the starter won't turn) and then turn your ignition switch to start. If you are getting power to the pump you should read battery voltage. If you see voltage and the pump turns you have checked the FI relay, ignition switch, wire to the pump and the fuel pump. If voltage is there and the pump doesn't turn then the pump is bad. Hope this helps. And yes you very often need to be a one trick pony to work solo on your car.

look at photo I sent on Monday, Green is + , white /blk stripe is (-)

I was reading your post from the beginning and have a question. When you said the car wouldn't start did you mean the engine wouldn't turn over or it turns over, but will not run? Also the relay you showed is a Bosch std 30 amp relay that is used for everything and mostly in alarm systems. If this is hooked to your start switch the PO might have tried to by pass the wiring to the starter because the car wouldn't start. I had this problem with my 75 and have seen it on more than 5 cars over the years. look at the crude diagram I have drawn. I currently employ this relay because it eliminates running a high current through the ignition switch that if shorts in the steering column causes all sorts of problems.

Here's a couple of pix of the coil/res. Let me know if you need more

Sorry to digress, Ing module for 75 280 . Also be careful with the carparts manul as it covers several years. 75 has only one fuse link box and the manual shows two. I have a 75 and it 's different than the 76 in many ways. Do you still need a photo of coil and resistor wiring?

You can go to the following https://www.carpartsmanual.com/

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View Advert ami wheel, 14 inch If anyone has a 14 inch ami wheel as pictured please contact me. Thanks, ron@zclocks.com Advertiser zclocks Date 09/10/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 75 Model 280z

Try JK Electronics in Westminster , Orange county CA or the best is Torrance electronics in Torrance Ca on Carson street. Also" ALL electronics" in Van Nuys Ca.They are on line and only take electronic orders.