ajmcforester

OK I have done everything listed so far, I didn't metal polish but I cleaned them to where the metal looks new. What is happening is that the pistons are dropping at different rates with the car on and off, and when accelerating the one drops the slowest is the slowest to rise. I have rebuilt carbs on another 240Z and tuned them my self before. I have tightened and re-tighten so many times I have ruled out miss alinement. I've ruled out bad needles or needle rub by removing the needle and having the same problem. What I think has caused this problem is that when I went to reset the carbs, one carb the float was adjusted to where little to no fuel was in the chamber, the balance scews were adjust in a way that kept one of the cabs from working and delivering to the engine. IN other words the carb wasn't in use. Who knows how long it was like this. I'm thinking that the carbs now have different level of ware from this creating the unbalance, between the carbs. Thus allowing one carb to move more than the other. I was thinking to day about trying different oil weights for each carb, any thoughts

MY suction pistons are not rising or falling at the same rate. I bought this car recently to replace my Z that was rear ended. I got the car all running well except the carbs and I never had this much trouble tuning them since I learned how to do it. What is going on is the rear suction piston is moving much slower than the front one (this is with the engine off or on). I tried to adjust the oil levels, I ended up with almost no oil in the rear and the front being as full as it can be, but the rear still moving slower, but not by as much. Has any one out their fixed this problem on their car. I was thinking of adding weight to the front piston; swapping the pistons (thinking that the wheir would be equal between the stack and piston); replanting the tops and having the front dipped twice, or removing a very small amount of material from the rear stack and piston. WHat did you do? and how well did it work?

Look in your local craft or hoby store they may have a crome leafing material that you can use. I've used it on models and another car of mine but not on my Z (didn't need too). THe product isn't hard to use, just make sure you don't get the adheasion material on the stuff you don't want it on, and it uses a heat gun to adhear it. I'd try it on the worst looking panel first, sometimes the japanees parts act funy when doing things like this, I don't know why.

OK storing a car is harder than it seems. For over ten years now I have prepared cars for storage, my Dad has a Corvette and this year my 240Z. Most of it is in the prep work. Before storage: Fuel system, put fuel stabalizer in and run it for a while and keep the tank full this will keep the gas good and water out. Change oil, fresh oil protects and won't break down in storage Flush and fill coolant, older coolant will seperate more causing more corotion damage (creats blockage) and freezing in spots (cause cracking) use a adative like BG's this helps keep the coolant in better condition Blead Brakes woren brake fluid will setle and corode, blocking lines Reduce air in tires, even better remove and use old tires, unused fully inflated tire will crack and become britle add a small abount of light oil or some enegine storage stabilizer thru the spark plug hole if you are not starting it up for more than several weeks (this will make alot of smoke when you start it) Remove batteries, many fires can hapen from prolong corotion, and reduce ware on the wires from any posable short, and when starting the car make shure it has a full charge this will reduce damage and ware to all electical parts the whole car needs to be cleaned (exspecialy the underside), polished, waxed, protectent on all rubber, viyle, plactic . . . Use a good car cover perferbly a fitted one If posable dive it around for a mile or 2 ocationaly to keep the suspention & stearing system in good shape. After storage: Put a great fuel system cleaner like lucas or BNG 44K, to remove any resiens that may have formed. Check points and do a tune-up take a look at all fluids, blead a small amount of break fluid from breaks if any particls are present frosh the system again, change the oil (add BG MOA or simular oil product to clean out sedament in the oil). . . Clean the car top to butom polish wax . . . you get the point Take it easy on the car for two to three tanks, and drive it around this will recondition the suspention system (shock and springs will ware out quiker with little to no use than with daily use) and condition the systems after first run check the coolent make shure it is in good shape and now rust (don't make a road trip first time out of storage only 1-2 miles) also change the oil in 1-2 months later alot seems to setle in the oil when stored. I'm might have forgot somethings I have a 10 page check list I go thru that I made and I'm just giving a good ideas what is needed to do so, you can make a procedure.

Restoration can be fun, sometime I think people go to far. I think eather way, restoring to dealership condition or factory conditions is great, if you have dealership sales recepts showing there mods it can be entered into restoration compitiions in the dealership setting. One thing I'd consider is not fixing everything, example my car is 1972 with white interor the color of the panels have changed color over time and don't match each other, in fact the vinal is close to the original off white, and the plastic panels are tan from age, and the seat covers were replaced. Some people resoring would need to dye the plastic, or fade the seat and color the vinyle, while I like to see the history in the car by not replacing or coloring to match. It gives the carecter and a uniqe style. If and when I'll replace parts with new I'll have them looking like originals from factory or find original parts, but I will now make them match the other parts.