Dan Baldwin

Losing at least 20 lb. (Les' hood, he says he can make 'em lighter still) that is forward and somewhat high would be great! Dunno if it's worth $600, though. Aw, hell,why not! Think I'll give him a call today. Dan Baldwin

Heard the one where George the Sr., as V.P., said that he and Ronald Reagan had "had some sex"?! (trying to say "setbacks") Honestly, what they say usually doesn't trouble me nearly as much as what they DO and how they (apparently) THINK (or, as the case usually seems to be, DON'T think).

I had a pair on my 3.1 liter. They did improve the cars urge down the straights at Watkins Glen and Mosport. But NOTHING like what I got when I went to 45mm 3x2s. Not even close.

OK, I know I'm an idiot. Can't find it in my options or anywhere else. Just tell me how.

I'm looking for two to four two-piece (spun rim welded to cast center) Enkei wheels. Respond to danbaldwin@hotmail.com Thanks!

A Nismo 1 5/8 header gained an ITS 240Z (no real headwork allowed) a smidge up top, and a fair amount of torque at the low end vs. an N42 cast iron manifold (see dyno results at Zhome.com). Interpart/BRE header gained them more like 5hp, and gave about that increase in torque throughout the useful rpm range. A 3" exhaust cost them nothing hpwise, but gained them nothing either. Regarding JetHot coatings, I and others have had the silver stuff flake off and the headers rust. I would not recommend them, unless you use the higher temp (more $$) coating. The 1300 coating is NOT up to it. Unless they do mine again for free, I'll be using Swain or some other source for having my header coated.

OK, how's the CAR gonna accelerate when the drive tires are off the road?! The tires will spin, causing a loss of lateral stability, but the car certainly won't accelerate. I for one HATE those big ugly airbag warnings on sunvisors. It's stupid enough that "safety" items that can pose a health hazard should be mandated anyway, but surely any carbuyer could be informed of this without having a fricking billboard on his sunvisor. I use my cruise control in the rain all the time. Certainly you have to use it with discretion or not at all in seriously bad weather or road conditions. What is needed is not a buncha warnings stickered all over the car, or stupid ideas like "never use cc in the rain", but EDUCATION of drivers on the physics of how a car works, and parking lot driving tests at and beyond a car's limits, so drivers will know what to expect and how to react when they inadvertently exceed their cars' limits in the real world.

I would (did) go with the N42 head, much higher compression without having to shave excessively. I have yet to see any objective info that the P90 is superior, I'd say there's not much between the two, performancewise, at the same compression ratio. It's just harder to GET to a decent compression ratio with the P90. N42 on a flat-top piston bottom end and you're at 9.8:1, vs. 8.5:1 with the P90. Then again, if you have a P90 and not an N42, shaving it .080 and shimming the cam towers would work as well, but I think you'd have to swap in 280Z valves. My first choice for a stock Z tranny would be the '80 280ZX. First gear is tall, but the ratios are well spaced (though 5th is kinda tall, too). The 280Z/1979 280ZX tranny has a BIG gap between 2nd and 3rd. It does have shorter 1st and 5th gears, though. I have an '81-'83 ZX tranny, same as '80 but with an even taller 5th. Thinking of going to a truck tranny with better ratios. I still prefer my tranny to the earlier 5-speeds. Anyway, go here for ratios: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ Rear end: The best *reasonably-priced* option is the 3.70 lsd from the 4/87 - 89 non-SS 300ZX turbo. If you're going to be doing any serious track driving or autoX, you NEED a limited slip. You could swap in a 3.90 or 4.10 ring and pinion if you want. IMO, SU carbs should be just fine up to ~185 or so rear wheel hp. In my experience they did tend to lean out at higher rpm, though. Now I've got 3x2 45mm triples, and shockingly enough, it's easier to start, idles better, and makes a TON more power. Ideally, FI is best. BUT, motorcycle manufacturers have taken YEARS to get their FI setups as good as their carb setups in terms of throttle response, and haven't gotten much (if any) of an increase in power from FI, either (mainly better emissions). And they are WAY smarter than you and I. In my opinion, SU carbs are very simple to set up, and triples aren't the insoluble puzzle they're made out to be (then again maybe I just got lucky w/ mine!). BTW, if you're going to be doing a bottom end rebuild anyway, you should consider going the bored/stroked 3.1 liter route (L28 block, Maxima diesel crank, '73 240Z rods, 240SX/Hardbody truck pistons). Regardless of what you might hear, displacement RULES. 1) Displacement 2) compression ratio 3) rpm. Good Luck!

I'm not a turbo guy, but I'll venture a few guesses: T3/T4 turbo, bigger injectors, intercooler, boost controller, fuel management system. 300hp shouldn't be difficult at all, I know of one making 350rwhp on the stock bottom end at HybridZ.org. Forget about triple carbs. FI is the ONLY way to go for a turbo.

That would be a 1640Z, actually. 16.35 liters, two 502c.i. bigblocks. Blown, of course! It's an old Hot Wheels car that some kook actually built. How cool is that?!

'73 240Zs had a lower-compression cylinder head, stamped "E88", but different from the '71 or '72 E88 heads (or the '74 E88, which had a larger exhaust valve). Hence, '73 240Zs had lower compression, like 8.3:1 vs. 9.1:1 for the '72 E88. The '73 front bumper stuck out further than the earlier ones, black plastic doodads filled the gap to the body. They went to the bigger/uglier 280Z style bumpers midway through the '74 260Z model year, so some 260Zs look like 240s, and some look like 280s.

You'll love this. I just zip-tied a small piece of cloth over the opening. Cheap and easy! No fumigation problems. Also, there should be next to zero vacuum in the air filter at all times, since it's upstream of the throttles. It's the crankcase PCV that goes to the vacuum side.

I guess my engine probably has 275hp (235 at the wheels). It's streetable enough for me, though with recent headwork and cam I do have to wind it out a bit more than I used to on the street. Extremely lumpy idle. I had heard that Rebello were expensive for what they did, but $5k for a competitive ITS engine would be a relative bargain. I would bet a Sunbelt engine would beat it, though. I spent a total of ~$4500 on my engine over the years. It was built in '94, but the most recent expense was having Sunbelt rebuild, port, and do some chamber work on the head, and install a their custom cam grind that uses lighter than stock springs. That cost $1500 (included in the $4500 above). If I'm making 276 on a motor that has ~35000 miles and ~50+ track days on it, with a pretty radical cam (.550" lift, 302 duration), then a fresh professional build with total-seal 2nd rings should be able to make that much with a milder cam, I'd bet.

280ZX valves in an N42? You know the N42 already has the larger-diameter intake (44mm) and exhaust (35mm) valves, right? Only the 1974 260Z E88 head had the bigger exhaust but the smaller intake valves. As far as I know, the 280ZX valves are a bit longer than 280Z valves. I know that those who shave the 280ZX heads to get decent compression with them frequently use the 280Z valves. You can't use 280ZX valves with the N42 (280Z) head, they're too long. This fact caused me to miss my first '02 event, as the guys who built up my cylinder head found at the last minute they had the wrong length valves! This is my understanding of 280Z vs. 280ZX valve lengths, anyway. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Dan

L28, definitely. Displacement is your best friend (compression ratio is your 2nd best friend, and rpm is your 3rd best friend). You can FI, SU, or 3x2 it. Stock SUs won't breathe enough for 6500rpm+ performance, I dunno about FI. 3X2s would be better for all-out performance, if you've already ported and cammed. I ran stock SUs on my 3.1 for years, and it was GREAT. Very torquey, and I wasn't doing much track driving at the time, so the lack of highrpm breathing wasn't an issue. Likely the best autoX solution. Royce, Some years ago DL Potter stated that installing larger intake valves in a E88 or E31 head required machining the head an installing new seats. To get the P90 to give decent compression ratio, you have to shave/shim at least .080". My pick as the best head with the least work required for an NA application is the N42. Valve sizes: E31 - '73 E88 42mmI, 33mmE '74 E88 42mmI, 35mmE '75+ 44mmI, 35mmE

$510 seems steep for used carbs only. Bear in mind you'll have to get a manifold, linkage, air horns, and filters. I spent $600 for a set of used 45mm OER Racing 3x2s last year, and that included manifold, linkage, and air horns. I then spent $280(!) on an ITG filter an backing plate. Just be aware of what the not-included stuff is going to cost you. As Zme said, there's likely not much benefit unless you've got a serious motor (cam, headwork) for serious track usage. And 40mm is probably too small for 2.8+ liter engines if you really want to get the high-rpm performance these kinds of carbs are made for. I'd do all other engine work before going to triples.

Lotsa misinformation regarding Z cylinder heads. Basically, of the 240Z heads, the 1970-71 E31, '71 E88, and '72 E88 are all good, I've known VERY successful SCCA racers to use these. The '73 E88 head (in the US, anyway), has larger combustion chambers, and much lower compression ratio, and is NOT used in serious performance applications. Ditto for the 1974 260Z E88, which has larger exhaust valves. Note that none of the E88s is FI compatible (not notched for injectors). The first injected head, the 1975-1977 N42, has similar combustion chamber size as the 1972 E88 head, and offers decent compression ratio. It also has larger intake and exhaust valves. It's the last non-turbo head with the desirable (supposedly) square exhaust ports. The '78-'79 N47 head is similar to the N42, but with round exhaust ports with (supposedly) restrictive liners. Then comes the 1980+ P79 head, which has the round exhaust ports with liners, and very large combustion chambers. Very low CR, even with flat-top pistons, unless shaved tremendously. The P90 and P90A turbo heads have the same largish combustion chambers, but have the square unrestricted exhaust ports. The P90A is hydraulic, requiring no valve adjustments, but maybe not as suitable for very high performance applications. Whew! All that said, if you don't have the Lengine calculator (lets you figure what your compression ratio will be with different heads, etc.), let me know and I'll send it to you. If you have 93 octane premium fuel available, I would aim for ~10:1 compression ratio. Unfortunately you can't get there with an L24 without shaving. However, a flat-top piston L28 with an N42 head would have you at 9.8:1, and you'd have more displacement to boot.... Dan

What year 240Z do you have? If it's a '73, then a set of older dome-top carbs (the '73 flat-tops are universally reviled) would likely do you some good, as would swapping in a '70 E31 or '71-'72 E88 head. The '73 E88 head has lower compression. The E31 would get you ~9.1:1, earlier '71/'72 E88 would get you ~8.8:1. '73 E88 would have you at 8.3:1. Generally, the best thing you can do for a street NA engine is to maximize displacement and compression ratio. This will give you a bigger shove in the back all the way through the rpm range. Putting a '81+ 280ZX engine with a '75-'77 280Z N42 cylinder head would get you 2.8 liters at 9.8:1 compression, which would give you a big increase in performance. And if you REALLY want to get some torque, get a Maxima diesel crankshaft (one at zcar.com right now for $250), and bore any L28 (2.8 liter) .120" over and install KA24 pistons, and N42 head. This'll get you 3.1 liters and 10.1:1 CR. Tire-boiling torque, and the same or more rev potential (same peak piston acceleration at 7340rpm as a KA24 engine has at its redline, 6900rpm) than an L24. Headers: I know of dyno results that showed ZERO loss of low-end torque with headers and a 3" exhaust on a stock-cammed L24. Of course the 3" is overkill, but 2.25 or 2.5" should give a bit more high-end breathing without costing you any low-end. Use a header if you want, but be aware it won't buy you much if any over an L28 exhaust manifold (won't cost you anything, though). A K&N filter in the stock air box should be fine on the intake side, but if you want to spend some money, twin ITG filters would be better. Just be sure to use some sort of radiused inlet, be it the stock air horns, aftermarket, or "stubbies". Oh yeah, get thee to a dyno to optimize ignition advance and fuel mixture. Baseline on ignition advance for a stock distributor should be 10 degrees initial, 35 max mechanical+initial (more with vac advance). Mixture is easily adjustable on the SU carbs, just turn the doohickey on the bottom of the carbs. Have fun!

Get spiral-wound metal conductor wires. These have resistance values in the neighborhood of 3k ohms, while carbon core wires are more like 15k. Any reputable brand should be fine, I've got Jacobs. I've also got a set of Datsun Competition straight metal wires that are REALLY low resistance. Zero noise suppression, too. And not recommended for use with the MSD box.

Viscous R200s came in the '88 pearl white SS 300ZX turbos. Apparently they aren't as easy a bolt-in as the clutch-type units that came in the other 4/87 - '89 300ZX turbos. Clutch type is preferred for max performance, anyway. I'd say $300 isn't too bad, if the breakaway torque is OK (maybe 25+ lb-ft). You could find one for less if you keep looking, but if you want it now, go ahead.

I still don't like it. It's just too heavy, not at all true to my idea of Zness. I guess any rwd sport-oriented machine in the marketplace is a good thing, I just HATE that they didn't do something truly revolutionary, like a Miata-sized coupe, with the VQ engine weighing 2400 lb. That would be something to go after Z06s with at the track, no kidding. What we got was a perfectly acceptable sport/luxury sedan squashed down into a 2-seater with a ridiculous ricerboy strut brace. That won't touch a base model Corvette (I know, the 'Vette costs more). I'd MUCH rather have the G35. Comparing leather 6-speed models, the Infiniti is actually CHEAPER than the Z as well! Too bad they don't make a 280hp 6-speed G35 sedan, and too bad it doesn't look like the Lexus IS300 (except the taillights). Now that's something I might buy for $34,000. I'd had hope for the Solstice, but now I hear the target weight is 3000(!) lb. instead of the original 2400 lb. Damn. Dan Baldwin '71 240Z 3.1, 235 rwhp COMSCC #7, 2002 SPB class champion