Bambikiller240

Huh?:cross-eye

Steve: I like the new avatar! Which one of the Raiders is he? No, I'm not a Tampa fan, I HATE ALL FOOTBALL. "Stupid Bowl Sunday" only means one thing to me..................two more weeks until Racing season starts!

NO! In more than one word.............only on a Z31!

In the words of Forrest Gump, "Stupid is, as Stupid Does!" When I'm spending the bucks and doing the work to prevent my "Bambikiller" from disappearing before my eyes (they WILL rust in N. CA even without salt!) I can assure you, I DO follow the instructions exactly and the distributors have been very helpful in providing info and answering many questions from me to ensure that I do it right. I was hoping you'd get a chuckle out of that one. I felt that I needed to lighten up a bit after my "idiot" statement to let you know I wasn't insinuating anything towards you directly. Since I've lived in CA all of my life, I cannot imagine having a car that I love and having to stash it away for half of the year. VROOM, VROOM noises would only make it worse for me Depends on how long you want your car to last. Rust will get it sooner or later, without protection. They simply were not designed to last as long as they already have. My belief is that a car "properly treated" with POR15 would be much more desirable than a similar car NOT treated with it. (to me, anyway) If I sound like I'm promoting POR15, it's only because the vast majority of the people I've spoken with in the Z and Hot Rod communties out here in CA swear by it. I really cannot remember hearing anything negative about the product. We have one of the biggest Hot Rod club gatherings in the USA in my town each August (The "Good Guys" West Coast Nationals) and the POR15 distributor for the West Coast was there last year and was busy as a Hooker in San Diego, CA USA on Super Bowl Sunday! Have a Good Weekend! Carl

I think it is worth it. Perhaps reading up on the material at the link below will answer some of your questions. Proper application is critical to successfull application of POR15 http://www.por15.com/index.html IMHO, only an idiot would drive a car that they care about in the salt environment of a snowy winter. POR or no POR. I will drive mine in the rains tht we get in the No. California area (15 -35 inches per year) another of my $.02 USD Carl

Common sense should tell you it's $1200 for a reason. Inspect carefully. Maybe stuff missing, new paint hiding RUST, or??? SOLID 72 240Z's go for a lot more than this price in the SF Bay Area. I'm not saying you shouldn't check it out, just go in with your eyes open and think realistically when doing so. How much do you know about Z's? The more cars you look at, the more you'll see problems to watch for on the next car you look at. If you don't know much about them yourself, take someone who does know about them with you. Don't get stuck with something that you'll regret buying, but DO look at all the cars you can. KNOWLEDGE is POWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think that was mperdue (michael) that had the cat problem.

Eric: Most common places for rust are the engine compartment under the battery (very bad place and diffcult to repair if severe); the rocker panels under the doors and along the sides of the car (expensive to replace unless you have the skills and equipment cause it's a cut out & weld-in job), floorpans (for the same cut / weld reasons). spare tire well (ditto), and rear hatch area right above the taillights (ditto). I always bring a plastic type refridgerator magnet with me and carefully place it on the doors, fenders, rear quarter panels and anyplace else I think may have been damaged and repaired. If it sticks, you're OK, if not it means that there is BONDO hiding there. I'm not sure, but I've heard that the rear quarter panels are no longer available from the factory and the rear panel that encompasses the entire rear-end of the car is definitely NLA so keep that in mind if there is body damage to be fixed. REMEMBER: These cars are UNIBODY cars so the body is the FRAME! Examine the car from inside (under the floor mats) and underneath the car to see if there is rust through. Look under the dash as much as possible to see if there are signs that the wiring has been boogered up by the PO. Observe every electrical item to see if it works. Look for leaks at engine, transmission, and differential. Ask if you can have a compression and or leakdown test done on the engine. EXAMINE EVERYTHING ON THE CAR. Bring a clipboard and write down everything you see (good or bad) Don't make your decision on first examination, take your notes home, read them, ask more questions of our members or wherever you can, think about it, inspect again, then decide. Good Luck Carl

Hi Burt: Yess, I do want them. You were going to get back to me on how we can do it since you don't have a PayPal account. Let me know. Carl The only place I've seen over-rider bars is on eBay. About once a month I see someone with either a NOS one or one removed from a car that is up for auction. Good Luck!

Have you tried Courtesy Nissan in Richardson TX? http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/ Parts: 800-527-1909 / 972-644-3942 Email: sales@courtesyparts.com If it can be had, they usually have it or will get it. Carl

Steve: Try "Goo-Gone" adhesive remover. I find it in Orchard Supply Hardware here in No. Cal. Test on inconspicuous area before doing whole area. Corrosion can set in if wheels are not kept polished or re-treated with something to seal the metal from moisture and air.

see Ross at http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php for upgrade brake packages and parts and information

Or to dangle them from their testicles! :devious: Maybe THAT would teach them a lesson about how "they are the ones people want."

I've not done it, since I have a 240Z only, but I've read on the IZCC list of people doing it. If I recall correctly, you need the brackets etc from the 240, but it's not supposed to be that difficult to do. I don't think you'd have to change the valance "so you would have blinkers/parking lights". The light are in the grille area and shouldn't be affected by the change of bumper (I think).

Me neither, but I do know one thing.....................It would NOT have those UGLY bumpers anywhere near the car when I was done. Yeeccchhh!!!!!

XYZ: here's a copy of a post to the 240z.org mail list that I saved a year or so ago. I haven't tried this yet, but will in the future unless I find some great replacement panels at a cheap price. From craig001@mc.duke.edu -- What do you do when the chrome strips on your interior door panels peel off and the cool blue color underneath isn't cutting it any more? OK, since y'all are my dearest friends in the whole wide world and have taught me so much about my Z, here is my door panel chrome strip restoration tip. I have never seen this one posted anywhere so apologies to anyone who thinks it's THEIR tip: Get a roll of the shiniest aluminum tape you can find. I've seen it at hardware stores and I got mine from the company that makes tubular skylights (SolarTube). Cut a strip along the edge that is about 8 to 10 mm wide and a little longer than the formerly chrome strip. Use a straight edge and razor and do a neat job. Don't kink the tape. Clean the area where you are going to apply the tape. Start at one end and peel about 10 inces of the backing from the tape, stretch it a bit and stick it to the top of the ridge. Run your finger along it to smooth it and stick it down. Do this along the whole length of the door panel ridge. Then smooth it down the sides of the ridge, again working from one end to the other. Try not to get any wrinkles. If you mess it up, peel it off and try with a new piece of tape. When it is all stuck down, trim the ends with a razor. DONE! You're gonna love this so much you'll want to send me lots of money (hint, hint Damian 71

beandip: KYB struts are of average, decent quality. They ain't adjustable Tokiko Illumina's by any means, but at $37 ea, that's a great price. I paid $50 each for my KYB's. If you do AUtocross or Track Days, I'd consider a better strut, but for a street only car that doesn't require MAXIMUM performance, most people would be satisfied with KYB's. I don't know the Ishino brand for gaskets, so can't speak to that issue. I haven't used the site that you refer to, but I've seen their prices and will consider them next time I need some parts. They are in some way connected to TOP END Performance in So Cal which has a decent reputation. Carl:geek:

Hi Burt: I would like to get those bumper strips from you for $50. Do you have a PayPal account that I could send payment to? You can send me a Private message with contact or other information on how we can do this deal. I'm going to be away from the computer for a few hours tonight & will get back to you late this evening or tomorrow. Thanks, Carl

Glad to hear your project is moving forward. Now, how about sharing the name of the body shop that you chose, and the reasons for choosing them. There are more than a few of us in the Bay Area that would like to know who they can take their car to for a Quality job. I'm assuming tht you chose them for a "Quality" job and not a Maaco quicky

July 10th - 13th, 2003 Mt. Shasta All-Datsun Meet -- For more information, contact Dennis or Peggy Hale at 831-336-2444 or check the NorCal UFO website for details. http://www.norcalufo.org/ not much info on the site about it right now, but I'm sure if you contact Dennis and Peggy Hale, they can give you all of the info that you need. HTH :classic: Carl

MSA sells them, probably Courtesy Nissan also. As posted earlier by someone, not only can the lack of shims cause this, but the pad material can have an effect on this as well. Some materials seem to be more prone to it than others. I'd try shims before replacing pads though.

Hi Burt: Sorry it took a while to get back to you about the "Brand new rear rubber bumper strips for 240 with new nuts to attach ." Amazing how long it takes to wade througha day's email and post a few replys! How much are you looking for on these strips? Let me know when you can. No rush. Thanks. Carl

Now that you mention it, i do have text regarding a tool made by someone that is supposed to thread onto the old spindle and "pull" it out. the guy making it is named Dan Bethea and his email addy is zthang43@hotmail.com If your spindle is sheared one one side and mushrooomed on the other, I don't think it would work, but you may want to contact him if you might need the tool for pulling another different pin. Here's the info that I have: Hey guys it's me, Dan Bethea, selling the tool here. It's $36, includes shipping. I don't have a way to post pictures on the web currently, but drop me an email and i will send you pics and more details. zthang43@hotmail.com HTH, Carl

It couldn't hurt, but I didn't discover Kroil until after I did my spindle pins. The only thing that got mine out was a torch, a 30 ton press and the $50 I spent at the machine shop to have them use those tools to do it for me. I spent 3 days soaking them in WD40, and PB Blaster, and they still would not come out with my 10 lb sledge hammer and a brass drift held by a friend who trusted my aim with the sledge! GOOD LUCK how ever you try to get them out. Oh, grease the snot out of the new ones before you install them!

Congrats Derk! POR makes a product called POR PATCH that comes in a tube. It's basically thicker POR material and I bought two tubes of that for the seams. It worked just as well as the rest of their products from what I can tell. Remember, anything you put between the POR and the metal will prevent the rust proofing that POR provides. It must be in full and complete contact with the metal (properly prep'd of course) to provide the benefits that they claim. Where POR got on area's that still had paint on them, it was easy to peel up the POR15. Where I painted it on bare metal, I haven't been able to dislodge it. (haven't tried a knife or anything like that though!) Since I did my Driver side floorpan only, and it came up easliy with heat and a scraper, I'm hoping that I don't have the more difficult time it seems that you had, when I go for the Passenger side this spring. I'd POR any area I had the money, time, energy, and opportunity to strip to bare metal, prep, and treat. IF I was going to keep the car for a long time. JMO Carl