Mr Camouflage

I think the term crossfow/ no cross flow is a bit confusing to some. People tend to think that the air in an engine flows smoothly from the intake to the exhaust, and that having the air seeming do a 180 and travel back in the same direction would be bad for efficiency, when the air isnt really flowing at all. When what really is happening is that the air is being sucked into a cylinder, then the vlaves close, end of flow. their is no air flow once the valve is shut, theres no where for it to go. then the pistons compresses the air/fuel mix, the spark plug ignites it causing the mix to explode, which increases the pressure in the closed cylinder, forcing the piston down. Once the power stroke is done, the air, which is still compressed needs to escape, which it does when the exhaust valve opens, not so much because the piston is forcing it out in the exhaust cycle, but because pressurised gas will move to a lower pressure area to equalise pressure with the surrounding enviroment. So the air doesnt really flow, it get sealed in a container,compressed and exploded, and allowed to vent to a lower pressure zone through the exhaust. So I guess what i'm saing is that air flows through an engine, like water flows down a river - if the river was a line of buckets, and you emptied the water from one bucket to the next, and then the next etc... (Sure theres valve overlap, but i'm not going into that, maybe soemone else can)

Well, if you look over <---- there, it tells you where i'm from. If you go to your user CP you can update your details and put in your location.

Thanks Lachlan. I've been playing with Z#2 instead of the K. I removed those ugly metal side skirts today. Must have missed the manual, its not there anymore. I saw a 240K sedan at a shopping center on tuesday. Parked next to it in my 88 skyline. Would have been weird if i was in the K, and the other owner came back and found another K parked next to it. I checked out the stainless trim. The bonet trim was perfect. other bits had some dents .

what do i win, what do i win?

Maybe the 555kg is a load rating for each rim. I cant see a set of 4 mags weighing that much. I just pulled a 7JJx14 mag off the back of my z today to remove some ugly metal side skirts, and i doubt i'd be able to lift it if it weighed 138kg (555/3). 7240z What country are you in?

Maybe its the way he "Gets" them +38 offset, will that fit a Z? or are you going with spacers, or have you got modified struts. 555kg, Damn thats heavy 223 pounds. That must be a type-o right?

Anybody got and scans of 240K wiring diagrams they could post? Might try and get the interior fan blower working in my K. Wiring digrams would be a help.

Not many people want a 240K 4 door, not even 3 for the price of one. Your ebay ad says $2250 for all three thats makes $750 the price of one. So you're selling all three for $750 now. You might be able to sell them at that price. Probably have better luck parting them out though. I wonder if you could sell them back to Japan? Dont think theres many 4 door 240K's over there anymore.

That would be whats known as a "guide coat", not "skim coat". Thats where they hit it with a very light coat of dark paint then block it back to see the dents. where there is colour left, thats a low spot, that needs a bit of spray putty/hi build primer. Skim coat it for lazy arse panel beaters that want a high turnover in cars and arent to concerned about what the car will look like in 5 to 10 years time. The cheapest way to get a nice flat smooth surface it to coat the whole panel in bondo then hit it with the electric sander. Bondo is cheaper than actually paying a worker the time it would take to do some some "real" panel beating. Zthing, use a high fill primer to fill the scratches in the metal, then sand it back smooth.

Yes. :classic:

If you are conflicted between modifying or keeping it original this is your best option. It's what i'm going to do. I have 2 240's now i just gotta get one finished so i can at least drive one.

The chrome rim is just fitted into the console and held in by tabs. My guess is the photo of the one without the chrome rim is an aftermarked repro one, the idea being that you should fit the chrome rim from yours into it. The top pic and the one on the blue backgraound are "series 2" 240z. the other one in the box is 260Z-280Z

Yeah I had the same problem with a different car (was a Aussie turbo all wheel drive Laser TX-3 - basically a re-modeled Mazda 323 4wd turbo). Clicking was coming from the front left side of the car. It was dependant on car speed, not engine revs. I thought it was a cv joint in the driveshaft, after wasting money getting it rebuilt I discovered it was a missing tooth on either the diff crown wheel or the output shaft of the gearbox (front diff was built onto the end of the gearbox). How I discovered it was that, was I got pissed off after spending the time replacing the driveshaft, and after the test drive it was still making the noise, and dumped the clutch in 1st gear, and bang, stripped half the teeth off the output shaft and about 10 teeth off the crown wheel in various positions around the wheel. took the gearbox/diff to get rebuilt , was going to cost $3K, so I said forget it and collected the pieces. It was a mess. got another second hand one for $850. So worst case scenario, you have a missing tooth in your diff. How can you check for it? I guess if you jack one wheel off the ground, (use an axel stand, car in neutral). Get a helper to put some resistance on the driveshaft (from the gearbox to the diff), and turn the wheel slowly and you can feel the diff jump. but yeah, check the tyres for stones/nails, and the uni joints in the half shafts for play. also check the hub flanges for play. Might be a wheel bearing problem too.

I have a car sitting in the shed at home thats the same. Early (1970ish) vin tags on a 1973 firewall vin chassis, 260Z engine. Looks like the diff/moustache bar is from the 1970 car, but haven really looked too closely at it. My other z is a matching numbers car.

I was reading in the Noltec catalogue that they make a poly bushes in 2 grades. one hard and one softer (Softride range ). check it out. http://www.noltec.com.au/

Thanks for that Ben. I knew about the other clocks, but couldn't see close enough in the photo to make out what type it was.

Hitting the piston you mean? Wouldnt have thought that there would be much difference in the valve sizes in the e30 compared to the e31 or e33. Noticed that the clock seems to have extra markings and third pointer (hours minutes and seconds I presume). Has this been mentioned before.

I found an archived version of the site at Allan and Rosannes site: http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/VeggieCar/veggiecar.htm

I heard of the guy converting his 240z to electric, and now theres a biodiesel 240z getting around. Found this while doing some random 240z googling. http://www.csmonitor.com/2004/0629/p02s01-usgn.html

Sellers name was arthursleigh He's not selling any at the moment, but if you seach for completed listings you can click the link to ask the seller a question and ask if he has any more. It looks like migh make them. Maybe i was getting confused with the 240k one, but worth asking the guy. And he's in Queensland.

There was a guy selling them on ebay.com.au about a month ago.

Hi Alfa Hubcaps are gone now. Ripped them off to check the air in the tyres, and left them off. Looks better without them. Been fixing the rust in the bottom of the doors. Which i'm just off to the garage to do some more of. Saw the pic of your car when you met up with Gav. I think you should contact a few car magazines and try to get a photoshoot/story about your car. Increase the awareness of the Skyline/240K with ignorant R33 drivers. There was a 240Z on the cover of Decembers Australian Classic Car magazine.

I found the google maps z owners thing. Its at http://www.frappr.com/zowners If you put your chassis numbers in the comment, you'll be able to see where the cars are. And on a different note, You know how Cities have sister Cities in other countries, well what about sister Z cars. That is Z cars with the same chassis number. Many of you would know that the numbers for the right and left hand drive cars ran in parrellel. Eg: There would have been HLS30-01234 (for example) that would have been delivered to the USA or Canada, (or some other LHD markets wahtever they may have been). There would have also been HS30-01234 that would have been delivered to a RHD market like Australia, UK, etc. And the Trifecta goes to the whoever finds the JDM car S30-01234. now that would be difficult.

Glad to hear that all's going well.