kmack

I agree with Carl on the damage assessment on that car. Based on the front damage, it was a square hit into something other than a bumper or other car's rear-end. This suggests that the driver t-boned another vehicle. Most often a t-bone accident involves someone running a red light or stop sign. And based on the side damage, it looks as if this car ran a light or sign, t-boned someone else, then got smacked by another oncoming vehicle. Also, since there are no signs of glass damage, there are no head injuries. Since the cabin is still structurally sound, no leg or other bone damage. Most they could get is a slight headache or stiff neck and some bruises. (I used to go to a lot of insurance auctions and looked at wrecked cars for over 5 years.) Based on this idea, the driver appears to have been at fault. That driver should suck up the pain and take this as a learning lesson, to either pay attention to what he/she is doing or get driving lessons to learn how to handle a car like this. It's too easy in this country to get a driver's license and any idiot w/ a pulse is capable of doing so. Just my view on this....

The Campbell Hausfeld brand will do fine. Basically a compressor is a compressor. I would worry only about the tank size. I have a Crapsman w/ an 11 gallon tank. It works fine w/ the 1/2" impact, does ok spraying paint, and absolutely sucks while running the die-grinder! Those little air-powered grinders use a lot of volume of air and anything smaller than a 20 gallon tank won't keep up. I can drain my 11 gallon tank faster than the compressor can fill it. All that does is generate a lot of heat, lots of moisture, and burns up the motor. Btw, have you been following the thread on the email list about moisture in compressors that mperdue started? Look for a decent water trap also.

Most likely the pump is froze up from not being used in quite some time. But that can be gotten around pretty easily. The pump works off a simple concept. It has 3 vanes inside mounted on the shaft. When turning, the vanes produce air current, much like a fan. If not used, then those vanes will stick themselves to the inside of the pump. What you need to do (other than just throwing the whole away), is pull the pump apart and get those vanes loose. Once you have the pump apart, then remove the vanes completely and put the pump back together. This way, you can hook a belt up to the pump pulley and the pump will look like it's running, but in fact it won't be doing anything at all. Only downside is the slight drag of the belt.

Somebody has done that swap before. I used to have a link to their website until I had to replace my motherboard. I believe the engine designation for the 300ZX ('84-'89) is VG30, so you might do a search on HybridZ for that. Good luck.

Ok, here's a picture of the tail lights. Somebody make me an offer on these....

Ok, here's the deal. During the 2002 National ZCCA Convention, at the car show, there was a group picture taken that has been used in the one of the new 350Z commercials. My Z was in that picture and I'm looking for good quality pictures of this group shot. Has anybody seen any out on the web that look good? I found one, but it's small and not of good quality. I want to get a good picture and frame it for my garage. Any help is appreciated in this search. I have attached a copy of the picture I found to give you an idea of the picture I'm looking for.

Bright sunny morning, not a cloud in the sky and I’m on my way to work in the left lane doing about 60 mph. Following with flow of traffic. There’s a slow car in front of me (left-lane blocker) so I move into the center lane to pass him. Just then, the new car in front of me (a plain, maroon Chevy Impala) puts its brakes on and slows down fairly rapidly. I have just enough room to make it, so I change lanes back into the left lane and proceed on my way to work. A minute later and I notice there is an unmarked, maroon Impala following me with its red & blue grill lights flashing. So I pull over. This skinny guy in a nice shirt, tie, and slacks gets out and asks me, “What do you think you were doing back there?” I didn’t know what he was talking about until he said that I almost rear-ended him. I wasn’t that close. He proceeds to show me his badge and he’s an officer for TABC, Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission. Then he writes me a ticket for “Passing: insufficient clearance.” Hey, I made it didn’t I? He also puts down that it’s raining. What? So my appearance day comes and I show up at the court ready to put in a plea of not guilty. I really wanted to test the system on this one. The give me a paper to sign with my formal plea of “Not Guilty.” But I notice that the offense now says “speeding.” Ok…. I start to laugh a bit then sign my name. This is going to be good. I proceed to get all my weather info collected saying there wasn’t a drop of moisture reported for a 3 day period during that time and some other miscellaneous stuff to back me up. Now I just have to wait for the court date. So I’m sitting in the hallway of the courthouse waiting and I see this skinny guy so up, it’s the TABC officer. I like this even more now. I just smile. Then Prosecutor comes out and leads me into a small room to discuss with me what’s going to happen during this trial. He says I have a few options. “One, you can plead guilty right now for a lesser fine and some community service. Or you can continue with the trial, be found guilty, and pay a bigger fine and more community service. What do you want to do?” “I’m sticking with not guilty. That’s still an option isn’t?” The Prosecutor hands me some paperwork to fill out real quick and asks me how I plan to prove myself in this speeding trial. I show him my weather data, which he seems unimpressed about, then mention the offense. “I’m here to defend a passing insufficient clearance charge. I don’t know what this speeding charge is about.” He shows me a photocopy of my ticket that shows my signature on it, but “Speeding” as the offense in a big white space right in the middle. “That’s funny because I have my original carbon copy of the ticket and it says nothing about speeding on it.” He takes my ticket and disappears. A few minutes later he comes back in the room and says, “Well the case we had against you is not the case we thought we had against you. The ticket has been dismissed. You’re free to go.” I smiled at the officer as I walked passed him and headed off to work. In hindsight I wish I hadn’t said anything about the ticket until we were in front of the Judge. I would have loved to see to look on the Judge’s face when I accused the officer of falsifying evidence. And I would have loved to hear what the Judge had to say about it. But it never happened and I got the ticket dismissed.

Which movie is the car in?

I'm parting out an L24 block. No cam, rockers, distributer, or manifolds. Engine is disassembled. Only wear found on the engine was in the crank bearings and that was minimal. Crank is in excellant shape. No visible signs of damage to the crank surfaces from the bearings. E88 head w/ no visible signs of damage. Valves are in excellant shape and there were no signs of a blown head gasket. I was told it has over 100k miles, but I do not know the full story behind this engine, that's why I'm parting it. Make me an offer on what you want. Buyer pays shipping. I need to get rid of this thing, so any offer will be considered. If you'd like to work a deal on the complete set, I marked everything by numbers relating to piston number. Email or PM me with any ?? and I'll answer them the best I can.

Good clean set of taillights for 280Z. No cracks, lenses are clean & shiney. Chrome overlays in ok shape. Includes wires and bulbs. $60 obo + shipping for the pair. San Antonio, TX I'll post pics soon.

I have the same setup on my 240. 3 groove pulley with only one groove being used. On mine, there are 2 10mm hex-head bolt holding the outer 2 grooves onto the main pulley, along with the main crank bolt which holds all 3. To remove the outer 2 grooves, you'll need to pull out the 2 smaller bolts, then remove the big crank bolt (the one with the high torque value). Just for reference, the crank bolt head size is big. I used 1-1/16" socket to get mine off. But I also used an impact wrench.

GunnerRob, I believe it was EScanlon that used the Qpads, but thanks for the ID plug! What I used on mine was a double lined foam pad. This foam is rather dense and has a fairly durable liner on both sides. I got a 8' x 12' piece from my neighbor (they pulled it out of their house from under the carpet and were throwing it away). Sprayed some adhesive spray down on the trans-tunnel and it fits the contours nicely. Also adds a little padding to the vinyl trim.

Mine came off a parts car. They may have a small dent or two, I can't remember as it's been awhile since I've looked at them. My first suggestion would be to try and find some locally. Then if that fails, search them out. Shipping safely would be the biggest concern.

I have a set also stored away, but I'm afriad to sell them because they might get destroyed in shipping. They're very easy to bend just removing them off the car!

As long as your electric pump is still working and the filter in the pump is clean and clear, then just having the electric pump should be fine. You'll need to make or buy a block-off plate for where the mech. pump bolts up to the engine.

You can get a new header from places like Victoria British or MSA. But you'll be looking at about $150+. You might be able to find a stock manifold in a junk yard considerably cheaper, but you'll run the risk of being in the same situation that you're in now.

The studs are actually threaded in, but over time and with lots of heat they essentially rust/weld themselves in place. The only thing to do (if you want to keep the stock manifold) is to drill out another hole and tap it. Then you can either put another stud in it or just use a bolt. I got my header from a junk yard for $50. It's a 6 into 2 header like the ones from Motorsport Auto. I had to have a collector made up for though. Here is a good shot of my header before I put the engine back in the car. This was almost one year ago to the day!

Monkey, The car above, the blue one pictured up top, belong to Pete Paraska. He is a memeber of HybridZ and of this website. His car is a wonderful example of a 350(cc)Z! And I just love the Audi Blue he used.

I broke one of the studs off mine awhile back. Just drilled the hole and re-tapped it for a bolt. It now has 2 studs and one bolt that hold the exhaust on. Of course, this year I switched it all to a header. It's a lot lighter. Trust me....I have the scar from 5 stitches on my head that says exactly how heavy that stock manifold is....:tapemouth :tapemouth

Just run down to your local auto parts store. They have them there. You'll need the ones that are fairly long with the washers. That's what I bought for my 6-spokes. I believe the thread size was 12 X 1.25 (metric).

If your car is a '73 model and you do have the electric pump mounted just in front of the gas tank, then you don't have much left to do to convert to all electric. First, make sure your electric pump is clean and working. The bottom section of the pump (at the very bottom while looking at it on the car) looks like a cap of sorts. Twist this cap off and pull the mesh screen filter out and make sure it's all clean. Then make sure the pump itself is working. It should hum slightly when working. If it's working, you're another step closer. Next pull the mechanical pump off the block. You'll need to either buy (from VB or MSA, etc.) a block-off plate or make your own and mount it in place of the mechanical pump. Attach all your fuel lines and your done! Start the car and enjoy the ride.

I'm gonna get me one of these! antirice.bmp

I bought my car in July of '93 pretty much as a shell. Got another 240 as a parts car (donor for engine and trans.). The work started right there and then. Did the apartment w/ car in storage unit thing for about a year and a half. Dropped the storage and then worked on the car out in the parking lot. Finally got a garage, then tore it all completely apart. Finally finished the car in June of 2002. Almost 9 years. Drove it for the first time on June 10th, got my first ticket in it on the 14th! :tapemouth Biggest set backs were (in order): School (= no money) apartment no money kid no money time no money But I'm glad I finished. I broke down a couple times and almost sold her, but it'll be a while before I ever think about selling the car now.

I know I don't usually ask too many questions, but every once in awhile I'm just clueless on a few things. This is one of those thingies... When I'm driving down the road at speed (60-70mph, sometimes more...), I've noticed that the car tends to wander a bit from side to side. Sometimes it does this rather abruptly and sharply. I'm trying to figure out what a possible cause and cure might be. So here's the skinny on my setup: Tires: 215/60r14 on front, 205/60r14 on back. Yes I have considered that this might be a possible cause for some of this. I will have new tires (all the same size, 205/60R14) on the car by the end of this month, or hopefully sooner. Suspension: new strut cartridges, stock springs, new swaybar bushings, new TC rod bushings, new ball joints, new tie rods, control arm bushings replaced w/ adjustable camber bushings, new steering rack bushings, new wheel bearings, hard plastic steering coupler, new alignment (done after the above was installed). There isn't any noticable "play" in the steering when the car is sitting. Ie: sitting in the driveway turning the steering wheel. I'm in a bit of quandry on this as I plan to start running the car in autoX's and time trials. Anybody have any ideas? TIA...

If it ran better after you changed the fuel filter, then it sounds like you have gunk/trash in the fuel tank. Next step might be dropping the tank and cleaning it out. You be needing to replace those vent lines on the gas tank anyway... There are a few threads around here about replacing those lines. A search should pick them up. Good luck.