montoya_fan01

Not sure how this car could EVER be called "factory original" (with a straight face) after all of the replacement/repair work it requires, but "whatever".

dogma, it is self adjusting, period. (of course for the stock clutch and probably at least until you've changed things so much that the rod from the slave can't push the fork far enough to disengage the clutch) I haven't heard of anyone who reported having a problem in that regard, but that doesn't mean it hasn't/can't happen. If you stick with using ALL PARTS from the same year (p/p, disc, fork, t/o brg collar, slave) you will virtually eliminate the possiblity of a problem, start mixing things up and anything is possible.

You've got a lot of work left to do, and a lot of money still to be spent. I agree with Enigma and Kenny. Cut your losses any way you can and next time find a chassis in better shape to start with. JMO

Black with "Engine Blue" overspray.

I never said it was. But it's worth looking into, before tossing it on the Bar-B.

This information you got from the book is at least incomplete. There are at least 2 varieties of E88 head (there may be a 3rd). The combustion chamber volumes of the 2 E88's that I know of are different.

sorry about that

Actually, there was an "adjustable" fork/slave used on 1972 240Zs with the Type "B" trans. (at least the early 72's, but possibly the later ones too) I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think the fork used on Type "A" trans can be made to work with the later "B" transmission FWIW, the "non adjustable" fork/slave is actually "self adjusting".

are you refering to: Motorsport Auto? www.zcarparts.com They sell mostly new parts. OR Eric Neyerlin's ZPARTS www.zparts.com ? He sells mostly used parts Both businesses are pretty good sources, just for different things.

Place in Washington http://dashboardrestorations.com/ Place in AU http://www.dashboardrestorations.com.au/ I haven't used either place yet.

Welcome. There is a Dashboard Restoration company in WA state. It no longer has ANY relation to the company in AU.

deadflo: I don't know how much the parts for different years vary, but MSA lists 2 types for 70-71 prod cars (1 for cars w/ hand throttle & 1 w/o) and 1 ea. for 72, 73, and (early) 74). Wish you good luck in finding what you need for your car.

transmission type would have NO effect on starting an engine. Driving on a cold engine yes, starting one, no.

OEM replacement is the ideal situation, but not everyone can afford the $60 - $300 (depending on what year car), and the downtime to source and receive OEM parts. Having a motorcycle shop rebuild the choke cable asembly results in a virtually NEW part. FWIW, it wast the broken cable that caused the console to break, it was the operator who kept yanking on the handle instead of finding the problem and fixing it. Been there, done that, learned my lesson. deadflo: I use lithium grease to lube my unbroken cable. I got a littl tool at the cycle shop that helps direct grease from my little grease gun into the outersleeve of the cable. It was a cheap tool to buy.

I've heard that motorcycle shops can replace the inner (wire) cable and regrease your choke cable assembly for less $$ than buying OEM new Choke cables.

But since he's already in the USA, that is a moot point. AND, FWIW L20A's are fairly scarce in the USA.

Yeah, I meant members of this site. to name a few of them off the top of my head, HLS30 (Will), SavannahZ, and Onuthin (I think), and I'm sure there are more. Best bet is to check out the threads in various forums and keep an eye out for the location of each member posting. BTW, you can update your User Profile to include your location and other members near you may PM (private message) or post to your questions.

Hi James: These are the type of stripes that were sold by dealers. There were variations of these sold, but they looked quite similar. FWIW, we have members in your state that can advise you about values and Z availability in your area. Good Luck in your search.

Welcome to the club. Where did you get the idea the stripes were a factory option? I'm curious as I've never heard of anyone believing that. We need to find whoever told you that and paint a Scarlet "L" on his chest. As for values, it depends on what a buyer is looking for, and where he is looking for it. My bet is that to get rid of the flairs, one would need to replace the quarter panels and repaint the car. That'll cost some significant bucks. Might as well start with a different (more original) car if someone wants an "All Original" 70 240Z The location of the sale can have a lot to do with the value. Z's are more common in CA, AZ, NM and other places that don't salt the roads. Prices are (in general) lower than in states of the RUST belt where you won't find many Z's that have survived 35 years. Supply and Demand. On eBay, it is difficult to quess what the final price will be, because sometimes "complete junk" commands a high price, and other times "golden nuggets" are purchased for peanuts.

Bart: cleaning out the rust you found may get you on the road, but you might want to also have your tank dropped, sandblasted, and sealed. Otherwise it will continue to rust and eventually you'll be looking for a replacement tank. As another member has listed in his signiture line: It's more than an album title

lean out the mixture at the carbs and try again with clean plugs. See what happens, how the symptoms change. (note you don't want the car to run long with the mixture too lean, but if you make changes in small increments you should be OK.) I'm thinking that your carbs could be providing an over-rich mixture at present. JMO

Welcome. If you type "Honda Blower Motor" into the search box of this website you will find a trendous amount of information on this subject.

the auction listed is on yahoo.japan, I dont think these "2400" valve covers go for that kind of price in the usa. do they?

The swap itself is easy. The problems are the fragile, brittle interior panels that need to be removed to gain access. Also, you will need a different rear interior quarter panel because the plastic vapor tanks are shaped differently and are smaller than the metal tanks. Thus your original interior panel will not fit over the later metal vapor tank.