montoya_fan01

quick, someone tell another joke and get this thread back into Humorland.

Door opens quickly, a sign appears..................

Whoa, time for me to step lightly towards the door, reach slowly for the door knob, quietly slip outside, and............................RUN LIKE HELL!!!!!!!!!!

Interesting. A few years ago, I drove a friends car to an alignment shop 30 miles away from where we had replaced ball joints and tie-rod ends and after this 30 mile drive, the front tires were completely worn out (they had about 1/2 tread when we started out). We had attempted to get the adjustments close "by eye", but definitely didn't succeed. When we made turns, the car would veer sharply in one direction, and I had to fight the wheel to make turns in the other direction.

you must be VERY accurate when doing this. small discrepancies can affect how the car tracks and how the tires wear. B E . P R E C I S E ! ! ! ! !

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6996&highlight=blonde+joke

sell the usable parts off of it, and save money to buy something that is in much better condition. You have a parts car, now you need a car (body) to put the parts into. PS, I believe that your state salts roads in the winter. Any Z that you would drive on salted roads will end up just like the one you have. There is a lot of info here on "RUST" and the expense involved in repairing major issues like you are describing. Save your self some time and money by reading everything you can find.

I know exactly how you feel Dave. I get smoke blown up my a$$ by FedEx Ground every week. "It'll be 'there' (OH, NC, AZ, WA, or wherever) on Thursday" they say, and I track the shipment, only to discover that it hasn't left even the Sacramento Terminal by Thursday. I call FedEx and they say, "I don't know what happened to your package, I'll put a trace on it." Four days later they call and tell me that there was "a Trailer Fire last Monday and all the contents were destroyed, you need to file a claim." Now why couldn't they have told me that last Thursday??? Pi$$es me (and my customers) off! Sorry that you're distressed, but try not to let it ruin your week. I can wait for my harnesses without a problem.

Redneck Ebonics

I can't believe that no one pointed you to this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20235

38.422 secs. The 'action' of the squares wasn't very smooth (possibly related to 56K Dial Up conncection?) and I think that helped me last as long as I did.

Dave, I think mlc240z might be meaning that the power wire for each of the two harnesses connects to the + terminal of the battery. (If I'm reading everything correctly)

Keep in mind that they are selling a product. They aren't going to say, "Oh by the way, these seals SUCK for many people who try to use them. Incidently, what is different about the current Precision seals is that their original seals (sold for 240Z's) used separate welting like the OEM 240Z seals and were even worse than the current product for fit and function. The current Precison seals are sim ilar to the 280z OEM style that have the welting built into the seal as one unit. They still don't work very well.

could you be a little more specific? Pictures? How about Clue, at least.

another thing to consider is that most hardware stores do not carry hardened metric bolts (10.9 or higher). Use "standard" metric bolts to mount an engine to a stand and you're likely to find the engine on the floor (or on your foot) someday.

i also beet you tuit, bill.

find a local z club and ask around the membership. or join the IZCC mail list and post your interest (they have many more members than this site). www.zhome.com and the president of the club (Carl Beck) is located in FL.

Not sure I'd consider a 2.7L Rebello engine to be "slightly modified", and for some people looking for a "numbers matching, original 240Z", that 2.7L motor wouldn't qualify as "original". But it's your car, and your money. Only you can decide what it is that you want to preserve about your car, and what you want to change. BTW, since the 4 speed transmissions didn't have serial numbers, it's quite easy to find a correct trans for your car and no one (except you) would ever know that it wasn't the one that came on the car when it left the factory.

pins are pins, links are links. Links connect pins.

Arne is right, the difference is displacement. 240Z = L24 engine 260Z = L26 engine 280Z(X) = L28 engine So................ a 240Z would not have come from Datsun (Nissan) with an L26 engine, thus your quote describes a car that does not have it's original engine. To some people that matters, to others it doesn't.

Yeah, must have been a good one. Notice how Rick is ignoring it?

Yes, as Vic and mlc240z say, you can find the terminals you'd need in many places. Very common connectors. BTW, since the wiring is so near the engine (subject to a good amount of vibration), I cut off the sleeving that came on the terminals then crimped AND soldered all the connections using shrink tubing to finish off the pigtail. This may not be necessary, but I now KNOW that the connections aren't going to fail and scare the bejeezus out of me some cold morning.

mine cost close to $2K It seems to me to be normal. My engine is running just fine and I heard what I believe was the same sounds that you heard.

It would be normal to hear air like you describe when rotating an engine by hand. Just rebuilt my L24 last summer and as I adjusted the valves before even starting the engine the first time I could hear that. Checked compression after a few hundred miles and all cyls read 175-180. Maybe you could bring a fresh charged battery to the engine/car and do a compression test to ease your fears? PS Grab the 5 speed if the price is right.

No it doesn't. You simply make a "pigtail" adaptor. One male "bullet" connector, 3" wire, and One Eyelet connector. Assemble them, and then plug your OEM "female" bullet into the male connector of the adaptor that you just made, and attach the eyelet of the adaptor to the roadster oil sender. This is what I did when I took someone's advice that the Roadster sender was more "accurate" than the OEM Z sender. ("IT ISN'T")