frank13

Ok ZHadMan, yeah your right to much too soon. What about if the members that have the most experience with this electrical Voodoo offer up suggestions on the best ways to get rid of these problems, including maitenance of the bulb contacts. Any problem areas that tend to short out at certain point on the Z etc. Then see if ZHadMan con put in improvements in the original harness that we can all do with add on connecters or other splice in type updates. Such as taking the high current out of the cab if possible with out too much fuss or kacking uo the OEM harness. Better connecters at the outer reaches of the Z's wiring. Etc., etc. Let's see what happens. :devious:

Yeah me to Daniel. I hate my Z. Wanna trade???:devious: I think I just posted on an other thread to you about electrical. Wanna trade?????

Has any body actually looked under the hood of any new car as of late?. Everything is controlled by means of relays. Any given new car is almost completely controled be the ECU with relays. Thinner wire=less load traveling around to burn up. Thinner wire=OEMs save money. but the tech of it is that the ECU controls the component through the relay by means of controlling the ground side. The Ecu grounds the curcuit to be turned on by completing the ground for any given relay. Our system has everything hot almost all the time. This is a Nissan thing. They always used powered switches. Even in the 80's. Daniel I don't think any body is trying to out think those 'O so bright little engineers that come out with this crap so cheaply, because some big wig was pushing hard to rock the automotive market. But your also talking about a company who's motors after the second world war were liscensed to them by British Leyland (or how ever it's spelled).:devious:

I know this post is late for this thread, but for those who see it late like I did. ZHadMan is doing some harness brainwork.:devious:

That's fine for the few who have been lucky. Most 70+% of the connectors on my Z's that I have had problems with, have all been crisp from heat(electrical), melted half off, or melted to each other. When your doing something at a connector, it is always rule of thumb to spray some CRC of the likes in the terminals. But that is not the answer to the root problem.:devious:

Hey ZHadMan, I just want a harness that IS NOT OEM!!! One that works. I don't care that it worked when new. I care that it works now. The OEM has short comings peroid. We should not have to put up with them with the kind of tech we have at our disposal. I want a clean arse harness with good juice and great grounds. When that branches off directly to where it has to and no where else. One that doesn't power the radio from a gauge. Simple, lightwieght, dependable, and easy to work with. As well as up to date connectors, e.g. GM weatherpak, Duesch( I don't remeber how to spell that). I could have already replaced the oem connectors with new ones, but why. The problems inherent to this electrical system will just melt them as well. A harness that works in a different way to do the things we need it to do is what I want. And little by little I will finds good ways to bypass or impove what hasn't already burnt up. But I always figured a simple harness with half as much wiring would cost less than a "Painless". More so if it was a Z lover just doing what he/she could instead of a big company just ripping you off. I don't know. I hate my Z:devious:

I had '72 that came with these locks already on it. Diddn't use this one two much at all. But the key was hard to get used to. Always had to have the right side up. And both the key and the locks where used up. Also only had one key. On the other hand they do look pertty trick when you see them on your car.:devious:

I do Only use one to start out with. But it's better to have the two, each one power only one headlight. This way you can use a five prong relay to power low/high beams and still have higher voltage at the bulbs. Not at the switch. The whole purpose of this is to keep the high current out of the frail electrics of the 30+ year old Z's.:devious:

You know what Brain, my bad. I was thinking F.I. for the clean install. If you huff a carb set up, the blower will set in the valley inplace of the regular intake and be much higher. Plus the carb(s). Hood scoop!:devious:

zzstom I tried to respond to your question earlier with a nice little article I wrote just about relays but this damn F$^$G sight just keep sighning me out. so when I went to submit my response I had to log back in and lost what I had written for you. Sorry. Still love the sight though. The #30 terminal is the direct feed from B+ to power the headlights through the contacts inside when the coil circuit is complete.

The Centrifugal style blower like the two I mentioned earlier do not sit on the intake like big 6-71 ones do Brain. So the air filtration can be custom piped in th e charger, then which ever kit you get for the chevy should have all the plumbing to the intake. Hood clearence allowing for a clean install. But th e best motor to use for full potential would be something like a purpose blower built 355cid with lower compression.:devious:

www.arizonazcar.com

Hey Goose, Arizona Z Car makes a 4bbl conversion manifold. They will also sell you a rebiult carb and kit for the manifold. As well as Exhaust header. Both parts are less than at MotorSport Auto(MSA). This guy's got some really trick Z stuff for less. :devious:

Hi there Alan, would like to know if you have ever heard of a twin cam head ever being bolted to an L -series engine. Maybe some late model head or a head that was not offered in th e states. some time ago (years ago) I heard that there was a head that if you found it or i guess that meant find it and import it, that you could bolt it up to the L-engine. Thanks for any information you could offer. Please email me if you can possibly come up with anything. I know this is a late post to this thread.:devious:

This question should have been in the electrical section. Oopps:devious:

I have seen charged chevy conversions. Of the Paxton, Vortech type, which hang off the front. Then is driven by a longer serpentine belt. I dont think I have seen any forced induced turbos(a turbo feeding a super charger, because both a forced air induction) on a 240Z conversion. I have on all out drag cars. Everything has a parasitic draw on th e engines horsepower. The water pump, alternator, power steering, A/C, supercharger. But the supercharger pays you back with more power.:devious:

Hey Mike, that's pertty much what I have done. Except you mentioned going through the combo switch. I diddn't see any info on that in your attachments. But it is always nice to see what your doing instead of always having to stare at it while your trying to figure it out. I will eventually figure out how to run back at to combo switch OEM stlye without using the high current white/red feed wires, infact I whould like to run everything possible through low current/low voltage to relays. I always hated having to pull over and shut down the car while my electrical system cools off etc. etc.:devious:

Looking for help with my 5/71's dash lights. Since i've owned the car, going on three years the lights never worked. When switched on the running lights will come on but not the gauge lights. There is power at the lead RED/Blue to the rheostat. But when I tried to probe the leads I broke the lead that went to two Red/Blue wires, which are reading ground. This lead should turn into Red/yellow for the gauge lights. But I never got power at the Red/yellow terminals. When power was induced to the two Red/Blue terminal leading out of the rheostat the logic probes circuit breaker cut in. Does any one have any idea as to what the hell is going on with my lights. Has any one had this problem. I would love to just bypass anything possible to just get them on when the should be on.:devious:

Hey guys you can good budget willing, can pump out 700 or so ponnies from a good 'ol chevy small block. 350, 355, 383, 400. N/A to forced. Most V8 conversions I have seen have all been real pertty, but not heavy on motor. Jags that run, MotorsportAuto, And John's Z sell conversion kits for the bow tie SB.

Hey ZHadMan I just wanted to know if YOUR personal preference for a new harness is updating it for better performance, better lighting, less weight, simplicity, etc. etc. Or just remaking a flawed harness new? I have thought many a time on stripping any of my Z's and ripping out every bit of wire from the cabin I could find. Then using what was left from the rear(updating the connectors) rewiring everything from the bulkhead foward and using current tech to have a nice ride with all it's light working. No Car B.Q. etc. etc. I run a relay for my headlights from a toggle switch from switched power. Sure would be nice if we could do everything we needed to do from the drivers seat with out all those high amps to melt your new combo switch or fuse block. Just asking. I don't think high performance is high. I think it just works. If you could come up with something like that in a harness, then Amen!!:devious:

Like suggested first, the best set up for the 73 L24 is the early SU's. 70-72, lose the smog stuff(airpump, decel valve, egr, all the stuff that can be ripped of the intake and plugged or blocked. Make sure what ever early year you can find complete to get all the parts for the throtle links. Besides the carbs which should be able to out run or stay ahead of a Mazda rotary 13B RX7 first Gen. when set up right by someone who knows Datsun and SU's. Have you tuned it up? Are your feed and return fuel lines at the tank in good condition. It also sound like your head gasket is going south. It happens, I have had two of my Z's blow head gaskets and still run. One still ran on the freeway (not much past 70 mph). Good luck. Is any one going to answer how to open the hood?:devious: