mayolives

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Thanks! Installing it against the header made sense to me but my brain is getting old and can be fuzzy at times.

Ther are several z cars that are selling for parts at....... face book groups..... datsun z parts buy sell needs

I'm installing a Nissan OEM intake/exhaust manifold gasket. Haven't used one in years. One side of the gasket has wide metal pieces (tabs) around the exhaust openings. Do I install this side facing the exhaust header?

I have the probe style controller with fan mounted in front of the radiator. My 3.1L stroker stays cool on the street here in hot and sunny Myrtle Beach. The controller is adjustable and was from Jegs or Summit. It's worked well for several years.

Although I didn't comment as I followed this thread for months, it seams like you have picked up a bunch of basic knowledge pertaining to you car. Good on you! Did you have any problems reinstalling the timing cover, in particular it's gasket, due to not removing your oil pan? Also, your "under hood" and engine area is looking good.

I have gone through several test that were spoon feed to me in order to locate my short that continued to blow the fusable link related to the ignition system. Sure enough these resistance test led me back to where the trouble started. That was the area of the new fast ignition system that I had installed. I discovered a black ground wire that was attached to the base of the distributor was attached to a hot wire that was activated when the ignition was switched to the on position. It had a bullet connector that I had mated to black w/ blue stripe wire. Also, I discovered my new coil was not connected to any power source from the cars electrical system. After looking at the diagrams in the EE section of my FSM, I still can't determine where several wires in this area belong. I have colored wires that don't match the ones in the FSM and still need some advice. In the photo below there are five wires. Moving from left to right (front to back) I have listed the colors. black w/ white stripe ( has blue shrink wrap on end)... It is hot when key is in on position. green (has blue shrink wrap on end) black w/ blue stripe It is hot when key is in on position. blue white I have reconnected everything in the footwell of the cabin except the ignition module. Two of these wires must have gone to that module, and I will need a power source to the coil. Some advice would be greatly appreciated.

One can't have too many tools!

So looks like these connections are located under the right footwell. I do have the 78 FSM but at times, especially when dealing with wiring items, it reads to my dumb arse like hieroglyphics. Thank you for your help.

Is this measurment taken from the actual fuse holder where I removed the blown fuse? Do you mean the side of the fuse closest to the front of the car? Wher are connectors c-3 and c-2 I suspect that you guys are correct on this one. A few more test hopefully will tell the story!

I disconnected the ignition relay and the new 30amp fuse blew out when I moved the ignition key to the on position. Although I didn't check the wiring from the ignition switch as New Zed suggested, I did install a complete new switch and cleaned up the combination switch connections. I want to work on one possible area at a time in order to not confuse the situation. I'm not sure where to go from here. Even after decades of playing with z cars, my understanding of electrical testing is not good. I've installed painless harnesses by following instructions and can usually wire most things from one point to another buy I'm dumb as a rock about relays, etc. I do have a good digital multimeter and a power probe III. I'll need some "spoon feeding" in order to trace this problem.

Well.....Excuuuuuuse me.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/classic-cars/a35432585/datsun-240z-fairlady-z432r-history/

This is an originia five speed car sold new in CA. Sounds like I need to start with the ignition switch and then the ignition relay and go from there.

I did try to start the car today but had a fuse problem. I'm using some in-line fuses to replace the original fusible links and as soon as I moved the ignition switch to the on position (not the start position) the front inside fusible link position blew the 30 amp fuse that was installed. I tried again with a 40 amp fuse with the same result. I know that position on the fusible link block controls the ignition switch. Should I try a higher rated fuse? Was the 40 amp one strong enough to support the ignition system? I'm reluctant to go much higher and then do damage. This car has be setting for a couple of years. The ignition switch doesn't move very smoothly so I suspect it my be causing this problem. I do have a new ignition switch on my shelf but I don't like tossing parts at a problem before I have an understanding of the cause. Any thoughts?

Following SteveJ's and Zed Head's advice. I disconnected the ignition module in the passenger foot well and removed the green and black w/ white stripe ones at my coil. Also, I took a closed look at the Fast ignition module instructions and discovered that the original ignition module needed to be disconnected. I sure missed that when I installed the system. Also I discovered that when I was testing my fusible link connections, my headlight switch was turned to the on position for the parking light setting and the wiper switch is now stuck in place and is set on the first on position. I'll need to address the wiper switch (combination switch) situation after I get this thing running. This was Zed Head's response to me asking what the "small box with six sides" was that is mounted near the coil. Should I disconnect the wiring for this trigger now that I have the Fast system installed? I haven't tried to get the car running yet but I believe I'm getting close to this point.

SteveJ...........Per your advice, sounds like I should disconnect my ignition module and test from there. I'm supprised that Fast's instructions didn't give me a heads up about this. They only mentioned bypassing all ballast resistance. Is disconnecting the TIU just as simple as unplugging it?

TIU ? What is that?

I'm always concerned when big companies take over the smaller ones. But it's just what's going on out there these days. We almost must live with it or do without!

The coil is the I91 series. The Fast tech person told me to use it. The included instructions for my Hitachi distributor had step by step instructions for removing the original stator, reluctor and other internal parts befor installing the new Fast parts. My distributor is a new (rebuilt) unit and it's part number was the correct one for this car.

Yes Fast is the "new" Crane and is now part of the Holley products line up. Good wiring instructions were included with the ignition system. This is the second Fast system that I installed on L6 engines. The first one worked fine. This one is the XR3000. It has an ingition module that I mounted futher back on the inner fender, and the optically triggered parts that replaced the original pick up parts in my Hitachi distributor . The installation was straight forward and I installed it according to the instructions. I used thier I91 coil that a Fast tech person said I should use with this system.

I have too many z cars so this 78 280 is an outside project and weather has prevented me from completing some suggestions of what I should test next. However, I'll respond to a few comments listed in this thead. My ohmmeter does autoscale. I haven't found any other things like lights, etc that are truned on and causing a drain. But I haven't hooked up my battery again since I smoked the fusible link. The fusible link connection that I had the readings on (1.84 and 1.032) was the black one that is to the alternator. The photos below are of my alternator wiring, starter wiring at the starter, the other two connecters with green wiring in holders mounted on the side of the relay box, and another unrelated photo of a device mounted beside my new coil. It's in the right top portion of the photo. It's the small six sided plastic box with two wires. What is it? I can't locate it in my FSM. My next steps for tests will be removing some fuses in the fuse block and unplugging connector C-9. Thanks for all the advice thus far.

Steve J...QUOTE: That aside, @mayolives, here is one way to test: Disconnect your battery at the positive and negative terminals. Disconnect the alternator wires. Make sure you pay attention about which wire went where. Remove all 4 fusible links. Make sure you pay attention about which link went where. Use an ohmmeter to measure resistance from the connector at the fusible link block to ground. Put the probe on the connector that goes to the white/red wire on the underside of the block. Record your readings. Do that for all 4 positions. Report your readings. Use the post by @Captain Obvious to indicate which reading was at which fusible link position. Repeat the above steps but with the alternator connected. _____________________________________________________________________________________________ I completed the above test with my ohmmeter buy I'm not sure what the test has revealed. With the alternator disconnected the only reading I had was at the outside front fusible link connection that is for the alternator. It read 1.84. The other three connections had no readings. With the alternator connected the alternator connection read 1.032. The other three again had no readings. What does this test tell me? Is this new alternator bad? Also, I checked all the fuses in the fuse block at the passenger foot well. They were all in good shape. Although I have made up inline fuse holders to temporarily replace the fusible links, I have not tried to start the car until I determine what caused the links to "smoke" when I last tried.

Quote: What are you testing for? Are you looking for short circuits, or are you trying to find out how big of a fuse you can put in the circuit before it blows? All the above. I'm going to test with my ohmmeter for shorts and also try to determime what size fuses will work. Eventuall, I will install a fuse block to replace the original fusible link set-up. I do know some about it's history and it did run good not long ago. This car was non-running when I purchased it and had so many items removed from under the hood. I'm taking it one step at a time to not create more questions until I get it running. It has great compression, fresh valve job, new injectors and ignition system so it should run really good. I'm stall puzzled about why the links failed when I first tried to start the engine but hopefully I'll find the reason soon.

I researched the topic at Hybrid Z (2018) and found a discussion that New Zed and others commented on. This is what I found: Based on wire size alone Based On member "dmoralesbello" trials AWG 12 fuse up to 20A 60 amp in the largest wires position AWG 10 fuse up to 30A 30 amp in the other 3 positions (wanted to use 25 amp but could not find) AWG 8 fuse up to 50A Others felt that 25 amp fuses should be used I 'm still undecided about fuse sizes but seams like 25 amp is a good place to start but I'm really open suggestions and thoughts from those who know more about this subject.