mayolives

View Advert 280zx Non Turbo Distributor I posted my need for a distributor magnet assembly and recd. no replies. So, how bout a complete distributor from a 79 through 83 280zx, non turbo car. The magnet ring under the stator must not be broken, because that's what I need. If you have one and need to check the magnet ring, be very careful when removing the 3 screws on the stator. If you use an impact device to free the screws, the magnet will probably break. A little WD-40 or other will free them. Advertiser mayolives Date 05/12/2020 Price $1.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 1979 Model 280zx

Dave at Arizona Z Car has said that he intends to offer a custom, billet, cnc machined, aluminum brace that would allow z owners to use the finned, LSD differential cover with larger oil capacity. I have communicated with several members here in the past that have expressed an interest in this brace. Perhaps Dave would be more inclined to start production on this piece if he had some idea of our interest in buying it. If you are interested in having one, please respond to this post and email Dave. His address is dave@arizonazcar.com

Check out Michelin's Pro Cup. They are fast, soft, DOT and last much longer than Kumho Ecsta V700, Hoosier R3S03, and most other racing tires. They are not inexpensive.

My office assistant handed me a real nice 280Z watch with 1978 and my initials on the face. Have had it on my wrist ever since!

Myrtle Beach, SC 87 1.87 Mid Grade 1.96 93 2.05 VP unleaded 101 Race Fuel 6.50

I am trying to start my 82 zxt parts car engine. It has not been started for at least 6 years. I changed the oil and filter, put marvel mystery oil on the cylinders (through the spark plug holes), and have drained all the gas from the tank and refilled it. I left it rest for about two weeks thinking that the mystery oil would have a chance to work it's way around the rings and perhaps even down the cylinder walls before I tried to start it. After installing a fresh battery, the ignition switch would only make a faint clicking sound that I don't believe was coming from the starter. So, I then removed the old spark plugs and shorted across the two large started posts with a screwdriver in order to pump the mystery oil out of the plug holes and spin the engine over to get some fresh oil moving around. The engine turned over freely and after a short period I stopped this procedure, and installed the new plugs. So, having said all of the above, now when I jump across my starter, it will only spin and will not engage on the flywheel. Have I fried the starter and/or the ignition switch by shorting across the two posts on the starter? Also, the ignition switch is just "hanging" down at the steering column and the two red wires on it are not connected to anything. Will this effect the switch and prevent it from working? Does the switch have to be installed /grounded in order to work? Thanks for any advice and your help, ............mayolives.

I WTB a R200 LSD. I live in South Carolina. mayolives@aol.com

I am ready to order JE forged pistons for my F54 block that will be used for a turbo project. I planned to only bore it .040 over but is there any good reason not to bore it more? I have read posts about of weak stroker motors that have been bored to large and come apart too easy and don't want the same problem. I am using a P90 head with a schneider cam that has it best power between 3000 and 6500 RPM. Also I want to stay around 8 to 1 compression ratio and will be using a good engine management system. Can anyone provide me with an experienced opinion about how much the F54 can be safely bored? Thanks for your help..........mayolives.

Several days ago I posted a question about a certain West Coast supplier and received a number of replies stating why I should not do business with them. I am in the process of building an F54 turbo motor and will be spending several thousand dollars on internal parts and engine management system. Please recommend other parts suppliers who can help me. Thanks for your input, mayolives.

Here is what Top End's web site offers: Z Car Turbo and High Compression N/A Performance Engine Rebuild Package: Everything you need to build a kick-arse Normally aspirated or Turbo engine in 1 box. JE Forged Piston Set with JE Rings,(Your choice of Bore Size, Stroke, and Compression Ratio )Clevite77 Rod and Main Bearings, 44mm and 35mm Stainless Steel Intake and Exhaust valves, Dual Race Valve Springs, TEP Performance Camshaft (Your choice of Grind), Complete Timing Gear Set, Turbo Oil-Pump with Dual Relief springs, ARP Head Stud Set, ARP Rod Bolt Set, Full Gasket set with METAL 1.0mm or 2.0mm Head Gasket... $1895.00

My F 54/turbo building project is ready for internal parts. Top End Performance offers a complete "engine rebuild package" for $1895.00. Is this a good deal? Can anyone recommend another supplier with better service or prices? I would like to hear from others who have done business with Top End Performance and their opinions. Thanks for your help. mayolives@aol.com

I've searched and found conflicting info about using an earlier intake manifold vs a turbo manifold for my turbo engine build. I have an F54 block, P90 head and will use forged pistons, hybrid turbo, wastegate, boost controller, new engine mgmt system, etc., with target specs of 300 RWHP. The earlier intake manifolds had a lot less junk on them and will be easier to clean up. Which is best for my application? Thanks for your input..mayolives

I have searched but can't find a good "How To" post for performing porting work on a head. Where could I find this info?...Thanks, ...mayolives

I am in the process of building a turbo engine with an F54 block and a P90 head. After searching/reading many good pages of information on this site, my game plan is to have 300RWH. I have talked with Rebello Racing and Sunbelt Performance about doing the headwork. I'm sure that both shops can do a real good job but both are very expensive. Can anyone recommend other shops that I could talk with that do good work and might be less expensive? I live in South Carolina and I would like to use a shop in the Southeast. Thanks for any light you can shed on the subject. .....mayolives (mayolives@aol.com)

I have purchased an 83 2+2 Turbo w/ 5 speed, complete car and intend to use the F54 block along with my P90 head for a turbo conversion for my 78 280 coupe. I have searched and have read lots of good info but have not found a complete list of what I should strip from my donner car. Is there such a list posted or could some one please list what I should remove from the 82 car? Thank you for your help.....mayolives

I have located a 83 2+2 Turbo car at a salvage yard. It has a 5 speed and appears to be unmolested. I want to use the 83 as a donor car to build a turbo engine for my 78 but have discovered that it's head is a P90A. I believe the head is a hydraulic lifter head and I will be using a solid lifter cam. Can the P90A head be modified for solid lifters? If not, are P90, solid liter heads readily available and reasonably priced? I need to make a quick decision weather to purchase the 83 or look for another. I can buy this car for $300. Thanks for your input....mayolives

I am looking for a set of stock seats that I can recover and install in my 78 280. What shape are yours in? Thanks, Tom Barnett