HusseinHolland

I need to find a replacement that has better tension than mine - if you have used ones that are not rusted & weak, I'd love to buy one from you. I have not found anything generic that has similar tension at all....

@Dave WM - thank you for all the tips. I'll get the gutter. With the lock nuts, are you able to reuse them, or do you replace them? I've worked with peined-over locknuts in other cases, and have always been able to remove them without destruction, don't know if that's true here. I have a proper bench press, also not a fan of banging on critical parts with hammers - I've seen plenty of that (claw hammer, no less, not even a dead blow) in some of the YT videos on this subject...

hmmm.... I'm assuming no leaks for you. Not really a fan of that type sealant for things that are a royal PITA to fix should there is an issue. I think I still have HondaBond from the last transaxle I assembled, I'll use that if I still have a good portion.

I have this type bearing splitter tool I bought some years ago - I think it will work for that extension

Looking through the FSM - it just says apply sealant to the trans case - what do ppl use? Hondabond or similar?

Thank you so much for posting the link. I'll download & print the relevant sections.

I was assuming the 280Z manual would not be accurate for the 5 speed - your opinion is that the 4 speed directions are essential;y the same? Or did you mean the FSM for the 280ZX?

Thank you - I'll check the shifter while the trans is out anyway, but good to note that's one less thing to be concerned with. I'm curious whether others found it a requirement to replace bearings on the later 5 speeds, or if they did it to be safe for long term. I'm only going to have this trans in the car a couple of years, so if they (in general) don't manifest bad bearing whine, I'll just look at the state of the fluid that comes out, and look for metal particles that would indicate an issue. Looks like the detent springs & BB's can be easily swapped out, and the input & tail seals.

So, another question - since search doesn't seem to help me find any of the relevant threads ppl have linked for me, is there also a thread that discusses the disassembly procedure? _ noted that the parts listing indicates one of the nuts is left hand thread, so clearly there is a particular method to the madness required...

Found Eurodat's parts listing Shift lever base issue Ground shifter

Extra bolts? I thought the flywheel is the same - there are additional holes unused in the 280Z install? Thank you for the input. I ordered a new collar to match the 280ZX clutch kit. It does not include the shifter. I will look at the linkage - at a glance the yoke looks the same as my '75. I did read that you need to use the 280Z shifter to get proper operation. EDIT - not finding anything re grinding shifter for 5th engagement - I'll look further. I'm contemplating 'rebuilding' the trans with new bearings & synchros, since it is a high mileage unit (190K). Not finding much in the way of disassembly directions though, so I may just put it in & see how it feels. Can't be worse than mine.

Post pics when you address it. Ultimately I'll need to do mine. Fiat used a plastic bushing, so on the X1/9 I had a bronze bushing made for longevity. Without images I'm not visualizing "tack a bearing to the pedal" in any meaningful way 🤪 More specifics on bearing dimensions would be helpful, when you get to it

Z/ZX Gearing chart After driving my 280Z 500 miles this past weekend, I can honestly say I can't live with the 4 speed until the drivetrain conversion happens. Mine is in rough shape - 3rd gear whines like a tractor gear set, and in 4th, the shifter rattles & the whole thing sounds like it's gonna explode when I drive over 80 for any duration. There were a couple sprints on the way down & home where I got up over 90, and the car felt pretty good (I had previously felt the nose to be a little flighty at speed, however I think that is mostly the roadway I normally drive on - since I did not experience the same feel on the interstates going to Carlisle PA), but the trans, not so much. Anyway, I have found a 81 280ZX 5 speed, so I bought it. Previous searches last year hadn't come up with any success. Not exactly cheap, but I figure I can sell it on DTR. I'm going to order the 280ZX clutch kit, just wondering if there is anything else I should be aware of besides swapping over the speedo drive gear. ID numbers for trans 19tooth white gear Gear ratios. 1981 280ZX had 3.90:1 FD, vs. 3.54:1 for my 75.

Great to meet you also! I will definitely be there next year, so we can catch up. I'm hoping to have the V8 conversion done on my Volvo pickup by then. I'm also going to have to look for a 5 speed trans for the Z - it's gonna be couple years until I get the 350Z drivetrain in, and the 4 speed I have is in terrible shape.

Indeed 😆 I did go over to the Z section, and talk to a couple of 240Z owners, people around my age. Most of the people around the tent - East Coast Z? were either a fair bit younger or older, and seems pretty much engrossed in their own stuff. Both those guys made that way over to the Volvo section, so I chatted with them a little bit more around my car. One of them ended up hanging out with a bunch of the Volvo guys at the tent.

They are just 6mm spades, but the type that has the spring tab. I have a bunch I bought off AliExpress. The sleeves I just notched myself This is a vendor selling them already prepped

I was - last year I took the Fiat, the year before my Volvo pickup truck. I usually rotate vehicles depending on what work is going on with them. Video someone took of it - I usually park with the Volvos I'll be parked with the Volvos again, don't know any of the Datsun ppl that were there last year.

I go every year - maybe next year then. I'd love to meet you, and look over your Z & get some other ideas from the later releases 😁

Had to leave work early as when I went to fill the Z tank, gas started pouring out past the sender oring 😭 I assumed I had not seated it correctly, which seemed hard to fathom, but it must have rolled when I was tightening the lock plate. I got home after losing prolly 3 gallons or more - the needle had dropped from around 2/3 to under half after the 20 min drive. I was praying I didn't pass anyone smoking with an open window - I'm pretty sure there was a fuel mist in my wake. I drained about 4 gallons to get the level below the sender. Couldn't see anything wrong with the o- ring, but I reinstalled with the original as it appeared & felt to be a thicker wall. Adapted the harness Put the gas back in, and the big leak was gone, however the new sender (off AliExpress) was leaking around the ground pin. Now I was wishing I hadn't mutilated the original sender when I cut the wires off. When I did that I yanked on the gauge terminal and it pulled out of the sender. So now I had to fix the original sender just so I could put it back in until I get a new replacement quality unit. I riveted a Volvo coil terminal connector using the original nylon spacer and the inner seal seat for the gauge terminal. Installed, no more leaks That done, I wanted to take care of the appearance at the tank and the rear valance as they both looked kind of s*****, and I'm going to the Carlisle Import Show in the AM . So I sprayed the tank with 3M chip protection, then after an hour and a half, the 3M undercoat. Metal splash guard sprayed separately, and installed after I took this pic.

Thank you - I did a little searching & found that there are vendors selling the spades with slotted boots/covers. Now I know what they came with, I can use the appropriate spade type that has the spring tab inside, I used regular spades, which will lose contact over time .

@hotsho111 - I looked back at the earlier pics to see what you used to connect the gauge wires - on mine, I had to cut the connector off the stock sender & add spade connectors as a stop gap. I don't know what the factory terminals are supposed to look like for the earlier replacement sender that has no level warning sensor.

I might as well add my pics here - since it's related to the original thread. Drop the tank, and found the source of my gas fumes/overflow when filling. Smaller vent line off the tank was ruptured. I actually realized I could have seen that if I looked through the louver slots in the tail panel Manual for reference filler neck base & clamp in great shape. Removed the remnants of the right side bumper shock, and plugged all the holes. Added butyl to ensure a seal Had to pull out the bottom of the tank a little. I realized there was no way to lever in there from the fuel sender port as there is a baffle in the way. So I just put a threaded bolt in the drain plug and levered the sucker out evenly working around the circumference of the bolt/plug hole Degrease / clean and paint tank. Made an elbow to replace the original large loop, the small line I just ran a longer piece, so it could loop gently Visible through louvers beneath bumper. For the inside, I cut the original hose - most of the inside was perfectly good there was no cracks in the the material, so I just ran a splice section from the tank, and used a large quick connect to join the two. new grommets for the lines from ZcarDepot. I did find out that I put the sender in upside down, as when I started it the gauge pegged full. Drained about 4 gallons, prior to doing the work. I realized the notch in the sender plate was supposed to be on the right not on the left - upside down in this pic

I'll look on their website - if that's the one they sell as a tranny jack, I need it anyway.

No - just a floor jack. Do you mean one of their transmission jacks? I was going to put the car up on jack stands, and use the floor jack to support it, with a wood block to hold it.