seerex

sounds like a page from the movie AIRPLANE ,

Hey by chance would you know if this would be the same unit ?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33555&item=2456885320 thanks Jeff

Thanks Gary , thought I would have to resort to spending $100 plus on a new one. Jeff:geek:

I searched quite a bit to see if anything was on the internet about it , I found a couple of sites mentioning some stuff <but there is plenty on the little green guys at roswell too >, but I really hope I am wrong , maybe I shouldn't have mentioned it on the thread . I would think it would be hard to keep that away from the media.

If you watch some of the shows you will see stickers and t shirts that say free jesse , from what I have heard it was a money laundering issue. But honestly not 100% sure , but watch the rock crawler episode you can see the shirts and stickers there. I was told by a friend who is into custom bikes and I was skeptical till I saw the shirts and such.

If the car is all metal therein not having body filler aka bondo the magnet will stick without any probs , if the car has had body work using bondo or fiberglass , the magnet will not stay attched to the body . If you find a radio supply place sometimes they sell rubber coated ones, alot of people don't like you using a bare magnet on their car. They also make body filler testing devices not sure how well they work but I have always found the magnet to be a somewhat realiable test, not 100% but it it will atleast give you a heads up to possible bad spots:geek:

I would wait to try again till you get the link , if you search in the forums I know someone had posted a way for testing the starter by using a wire to bypass the ignition. I used it to eliminate my starting issues, mine was a bad starter. Good luck

Not sure about a price for you but can definately tell you where to look for rust. First the floor pans and frame rails look under the car as well as inside the where you feet go. Around the door jams where the bottom seals go is a bad spot. Under the battery box is pretty bad spot. I would also check around the hatch area and under the hatch itself , alot of times you can see the discoloration from the water running from the hatch and down past the tail lights that can be a sign of rust. All of the body I would check out but those to me are key hidden areas to check . Just bring a magnet and a good eye , I would rather see the rust and know the extent of it than see bondo and just gues at how bad it could be

gotta make fla bigger , or boot the damn rat out , glad to see Z lovers are all over

was looking at the tag for year 72 in fla :sick: good god what were they thinking , oh yea they were wearing leasure suits and big turtle necks , got to love the 70's , still gonna get one just in case I paint my car anything that matches sick mold orange

Always have enjoyed watching monster garage and American chopper very impressed with the skills involved with both , always found Jesse James to be more of a real person than anyone on tv. The olde southern chopper was a joke , can't stand the kissing up to the camera < almos the way Paul Jr is on american chopper >. But anyway you look at it we are all watching and talking about it so the producers did their job well. Another fave is myth busters love the thought going in to what they do. Was kinda impressed that they kept Jesse James on tv after his arrest really. Really shows what makes that show tick.

The floats are ok I just rebuilt the carbs and the plugs on the module are all the way in I checked all the connections when me and friend timed it, really starting to think vapor lock gonna get some insulation for it and then try again , its very irritating because it will run wonderful when i warm it up and check things out or tune the carbs then as I take it out and around the block bam it dies and leaves me stranded , I took it to have the muffler and pipes tightened and spot welded this was the first time it did it , and the shop is lesss than 1/2 mile from my house , very very weird

it sputters to death , it sounds just like when the points go bad on a 240z , its spit and sounds liks its running on 4 cylinders

Tach is original and works correctly, the ballast resistor was removed , I have a header on it , it shows no signs of head warpage , no change in brake levels , the dizzy wasn't tested before installation but this issue was there before the EI was installed , was hoping the electronic ignition would fix this prob :stupid: but that was a big hope :disappoin

I am gonna get it tested but my brother and I are leaning towards the tank or vapor lock , mainly because it did the same thing before I switched out the dizzy ,which I was hoping would fix my prob, gonna test the dizzy module and wrap the fuel lines to see if that helps , and go from there, does putting in an electric fuel pump generally help with vapor lock?

the black box is righ next to the upper radiator hose , not sure it that would cause an issue, gonna call around to see if I can get it tested first , then go through the wrapping of the fuel lines, does the 72 have the electric fuel pump already pre-wired back there?

I agree with the coil or fuel pump switch in addition to an alarm , that will protect you from most thieves, the pro won't be concerned with that < nor much of anything else> and unfortunately if a pro wants it they will get it , if you watch where you park it most of the time alarms will be enough , as well as the time issue finding a cutoff switch to deter most , took a class on the subject it was most depressing, best thing to do is hide the switch in a spot where when starting the car regularly it isn't an unusual act to activate it , or as stated before hide it as another switch , that way if you are being watched they have an ideal that there is a switch for one and two where your abnormal movements can point them towards its location, in Cali lojack works well but here in fla there are so few tracking units being used its almost useless, love to see some post with pics if anyone draws anything up for a z , can't always carry my AK-47

new to my car , but a used dizzy , can a parts place test them? I am hoping to try everything before dropping the tank , I am gonna try to test the module and maybe wrap the fuel lines , anything but drop the tank , i have 1/2 tank of fuel and tried to drain it with no luck , will let you know Jeff

also I have removed the water lines for the intake , hhm reading up on the vapor lock , sounds like it but the motor runs so cool and the engine compartment is cool also whe u open the hood, still lost :stupid: don't want to drop the tank but looking that way or might try wrapping th fuel lines

it has a new coil , and it had the same issue before the new ignition, so what causes vapor lock , when it was ran and it did this it was like late 60's early 70 in tempreture, I wasn't sure if the climate would affect that?

Thats how I feel, ok 72 240z , it run great for a bit then starts to spit and sputter then dies, I can get it warmed up and drive it around the block a few times it seems to be about 20 minutes of running before it quits , rebuilt carbs , new vacume hoses ,new fuel pump and filter, 280zx electronic dizzy , timed correctly , I ran the car from a gas tank<portable> for a bit and it did the same thing died while from an alternate source, so I was think it wasn't the gas tank, and if you wait a few minutes like 15-20 then it will fire up and run run for a few then do the same thing , after it dies when you try and start it again it runs like the points are bad , spitting and almost firing on 4 cylinders , just hoping for new insight to what it might be , running out of stuff to fix other than dropping the tank and having it dipped , any thoughts would be appreciated , Thanks JEff:disappoin

its called a gtech pro , pretty kewl little device

I was in the same boat you were recently , I just started with a test light and moved from the battery onwards or if you like from the dizzy back , I found alot of my issues were corroded and loose connections, good luck

the hanes books are helpful but not great , some of them in the back have a the wiring diagram like you looked at , I would start looking for the wiring color codes , should narrow down the search quickly as well as trace the wires where they come in from the window units in the doors there should be a boot that covers them in the jam , follow from there, sorry could be more helpful

Carl if I had a set I probably wouldn't leave the house for atleast a few months