Pennyman

They have them for 280Z's as well, it looks like. Pretty much 70-78 is taken care of. Sweet. In your face MSA!

No, see there was ALWAYS a tube coming off the valve cover breather, it never made it's way to the road, whether the recall was done or not. The only difference was that the breather tube either goes into the emmisions maze of tubes, like this: Or you brought your car in for the recall and they routed the tube straight to the boot after the mass airflow sensor. This is how my 76 Z is. Notice how instead of clamping onto another section of plumbing halfway though, it just goes the entire way. I'm simply wondering why they enacted this optional recall and what they were solving. There's also one other variant in the mystery of the "wandering breather tube" as thown in this picture: Kinda weird in my opinion, could they be year-related?

I live in CA and I've had my Z for several years now. On the inside of my hood theres a sticker that talks about a "voluntary recall" that was conducted many years ago. I know the recall proceedure involved taking the valve cover breather hose and routing it straight to the boot right after the mass airflow sensor. What was the point of this? Can/should I put it back the way it was? I don't think any other states dealt with this emmisions "recall" mumbo-jumbo, did they? Stupid CA...I have a 76 Z and the gov't here just ruled that the rolling exemption will cease forever for cars newer than APRIL 75!!! ARGH!!!

If you plan on removing the egr valve, you'll also have to plug the hole in the exhaust manifold. Also, I've been trying to figure out how to clean up my engine too, so here's one thing I found out: The breather hose from the valve cover runs to the boot after the mass air sensor (at least in CA). There's a vacuum in that line sucking into the boot, away from the valve cover. You'll need to put some sort of catch or tube or filter on the end of the valve cover to allow it to breath, but if you plug the hole in the boot, you should be good. That's step one in theory, and pretty simple to replace if you have to go back.

So I guess if I have the money, I'll look for some illuminas on ebay. Seems like the tokico hp's are pretty good for all purpose spirited driving. I just want consistent handling...I wanna know how my car is going to behave at any given time, not be thinking to myself "Crap, what setting are the illuminas on so I can dodge this bad driver" on the freeway. In terms of springs, where would you get such a heavy spring rate (200/250) the AZ springs are 180/200 and I don't know any other brand which is stiffer...please enlighten?

Did you check to make sure the air tubing isn't disconnected from the dash underneath and just spilling out under the dash? That's a quick fix. My heater works two ways, on the windshield or at my feet, and the vent works shooting out the front and that's it. Simple and easy. All started when my heater control valve started leaking, hehe.

I know there's several choices out there regarding performance struts: adjustable vs. non-adjustable and the like, but what would you reccmmend is the best bang for the buck? (I'm talking performance-wise, like autoX or mountain driving). $145 is a little pricy for one adjustable strut in my opinion, so I think we're talking about non-adustable guys here. In terms of springs I think I'm almost sold on AZ z car springs, they seem like they know what I want, hehe.

Hey everyone. My long terms goal is to get my 76 Z a little faster, a little sweeter, and a little meaner on a moderate, part time, student budget. ~ I found a set of 6-2-1 headers on a junkyard Z for $38 with a little rust, but salvagable. I'm thinking 2.25" tubing with a Dynomax turbo muffler, as it seems to have a pretty good following around here and doesn't require a separate resonator to cut down the interior noise, and the 2.25 tubing will help keep a little backpressure for midrange torque (Should I go 2.5"? please tell me why.) ~ Also, I'm thinking KYB gas non-adjustables, because they cut down on the "Squatting Z" syndrome and aren't as expensive as adjustable struts, but still are pretty stiff, I think (any other recommendations? tokico blues? please persuade me, I like suggestions). ~ Also, What springs would be good for autoX / mountain road driving and lower about 1.5"? I'm more interested in performance than pillowy soft ride (but I don't wanna crack my back or my frame rails, hehe). MSA springs? tokico? eibach? AZ z car? help? And finally, an LSD project which you'll hear about soon enough.... Thanks fellas, I know you can handle this one, hehe.

Would you guys recommend putting the glasspack resonator before or after the catlytic converter on 280z's? Or does the 280z's displacement help diminish the "rice" sound with the 40 series? Is there a muffler I should get that doesn't require a glasspack to sounds "rumbly" and "muscley"? Thanks guys, hehe.

You know what I mean. One of these: Anyway, so again a question: Any idea whether the halfshafts out of an old R200 will fit into the input slots on an LSD unit like this one? (if the LSD is for a 240sx with the "short-nose" version of the R200)

So would it be easier to get an aftermarket LSD pumpkin from a 240sx (ready available now) and swap that into your R200 case (you'd just have to make spacers to fill the gap from the 12mm bolts to the 10mm)? Would the ouput shafts from the old R200 work on the new Pumpkin? (I.E. number of splines and length of shafts). I'm kinda tired of looking for a Z31 LSD and there are many aftermarket 240sx LSD's around...Help?

So I should check for hissing vacuum leak sounds coming from the boster, okie.

No, the pedal does not gradually sink under pressure. I just adjusted the rear brakes yesterday, and the hard spot remains, so you think maybe I should hit the front rotors with some degreaser? They don't look rusty at all... Glazed pads perhaps? Should I bleed them anyway? Keep the info flowin', I really appreciate the help.

So here's the thing: The pedal travels a few inches and the brakes work, but then I hit a hard spot in the pedal. I can push the pedal past this hard spot with some effort, and the car will stop faster, and the brakes will lock up eventually, but I'm wondering if this hard spot it supposed to be there, or maybe the soft part before the hard spot is a hint that I need to bleed the brakes? Is the hard spot normal on Z's? Thanks again for the help.

When the car is off, and I pump the brake pedal, the pedal feels nice and firm. Then when I turn the car on, the pedal drops a bit (couple inches) into the area where it works during driving. On old Z's is it posible that the adjustment of the rear drum braks can help the pedal stay a little firmer when you brake (because they engage first, perhaps?) Is any of this making sence? I just feel like my brake pedal could be firmer, because it has been in the past, but it fluctuates sometimes. Finicky old car, hehe. Any help is appreciated.

How tight IS the brake pedal now that you've fixed the problem? My brake pedal has some travel and its hard to lock up my wheels, but it's not horrible. Could it be that my drum brakes need to be adjusted, or is it possible that I have the same problem? (a couple years ago I had a new M/C put in, so I dunno if they lost the reaction disk, but my braking isn't that bad, just some pedal travel.)

Hope your floorpans stay dry when it rains... Goodluck getting everything working together. BTW, N/A rules! heehee.....j/k. Yours is already faster than mine. P.S. how did you know which emmisions hoses you could nix?

Ok, I'm stupid, it's been answered before. Here: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16538&highlight=lsd+swap