DatsunZsRule

"If you want to try spray cleaners, I would NOT recommend the ones you get at Radio Shack or local electronics stores." What???? Dude, Radio Shack is where I got my Caig DeOxit stuff. If your local Radio Shack doesn't have it in stock then you can buy it on there website. You'll get no argument from me though about Caig's product (DEOXIT) It's amazing stuff.

I've seen all gen Z's around where I live. Only once, then I never see them again I was out cruisin in mine one Beautiful Saturday and I happen to spot a black 280ZX in my rear view mirror. When we approached a red stop light, he quick gets over in the right lane to pull up along side of me. He signals me to roll down my window so i did and he shouts out to me "Awesome Z" Then I replied "Thanks man, back at ya" Another time I was cruisin through a small town and I saw a brown 75-76 280Z and we both honked and waved at eachother. One other time when I was in my daily driver I saw a 77-78 Z like mine. Mint like mine getting on the highway. Also ran into a black 300ZX (Z31) at the gas pump and we BS'ed a bit. As far as Z32's are concearned, There all around if you keep your eyes open. There not that old. and plenty of 350Z's Not bad for living in Minnesota. My Z has a nice dry garage she sits in during the winter months. So yeah, there out there. :laugh:

Above are all good suggestions. Cleaning electrical contacts,checking to see if the RPM is set correctly at idle which should be 800 @ idle on a manual transmission model. Also go through and make sure all your electrical connections are connected good and not loose like at the alternator and battery cables ect. You can do this of course while your cleaning all connections. I'm willing to bet you got a loose connection somewhere in your electrical system. Best of luck

" I was really wondering if it has a switch or valve that causes it to run higher on cold starts." Yes, it's got a Cold Start Valve that only operates when starting or when the coolant temp. is below a certain degrees. When the coolant is above a certain degrees (sorry can't remember what degree off the top of my head) the Thermotime switch will then break the ground for the Cold Start Valve to kill it.

Definitely after you get it warmed up good, set it back to 800 where it should be. If it runs rough @ 800 RPMs than you have other issues with either the fuel management or ignition. Think about it, if you have it set for 1000 at normal operating temps then of course it won't drop to where it's suppose to be. (800) Before you messed with the idle speed and it was still @ 800 RPM's, what was the issue? Rough idle? Killing?

When warmed up at idle on a manual trans. 800 is where it should be. When first starting it with a cold motor should be around a 1000-1500 and when fully warmed up, it should drop down to 800. Where is yours constantly staying at? 1000?

Oh for cryin out loud. ALL 1st gen Z's kick a$$. After reading through all these responses, I have to say that jmark has the best answer "Both are great cars. You won't be disappointed with either one." Amen to that.

Thanks again. I did already order up the front brake hardware kit along with all my other goodies from Courtesy Nissan.

hhmm interesting. Thanks for googling that Chris. I appreciate it. Yeah, I suppose normal grease wouldn't be able to handle that kind of heat when you think about how hot they get.

As you know from my last post, I'm doing work to my front end. I was just flipping throughmy FSM just to refresh my memory on a couple things and one thing I saw in the FSM under reinstallation of front brake pads they say to apply "Pad Grease" to working portions of caliper and both sides of anti-squeel shims. My question is about the "Pad Grease" Is this some sort of special grease for the brake components only or can any light coating of multipurpose grease be used? Thanks in advance.

Just got done E-mailing courtesy Nissan and ordered up all my stuff that I'll need. Definitely not cheap but well worth it. Nothing but genuine Nissan parts for my baby :laugh:

Yeah, I know of a place near me that does alignments thats about 5 miles away also. I've personally have never been there as I do all my own work but I know people that have gone to them and they have said they were good so who knows??? I don't care if they are the best, I'm still going to watch them like a hawk :paranoid:

Radiators are different as well. automatic models have the connections for the tranny cooler lines.

I hear ya. I have the same problem. I work everyday for a living plus I have my daily driver as well to take care of. Always too much to do and very little time to get everything done :laugh: What I'm planning on doing is once all my new parts arrive and I got everything I need in front of me and I know that they are all the correct parts, I'm going to use some of my vacation time where I work which will help greatly. Just wish I had the proper equipment to align it myself instead of having to take it in for the alignment after I finish. I'll be watching those guys at the alignment shop closely :devious:

Well I did sneak it out last weekend. I went over a rougher section of a country road and I was just cringing at the sound in the front. Can't put it off any longer About how long did it take you to complete yours? Did everything come apart nice for you?

This weekend has been the nicest one out of the whole summer so for in MN. Perfet sunny, clear sky, temp in the mid 70's both Sat. and today and I can't take my baby out cruising because I have to do front end work to it. She needs both ball joints, both tie rod ends, front brake pads and while I got her apart in front, I'm going to go ahead and clean/repack the wheel bearings ect. I got a price quote from Courtesy Nissan so now what I need to do is bite the bullet and order up everything and go at it. I've been dreading the Tie Rod/Ball Joint job because I knew that they were getting worn as they are the orig. ones but it's got to be done. Hopefully mine won't be as much of a pain as some others that I've read about on here :surprised: Sorry, just had to vent

Now thats a quality restoration Awesome work man but you are missing something. You need to visit MSA's site and pick yourself up a DATSUN T Shirt LOL Congratulations on your beautiful Z. Good Restorations are no easy task or cheap

Watch out for "Rust proofing" A.K.A. Undercoating which is where they spray the under carriage with like a rubber/tar like coating. If you do this, make damn sure that your car really is "Rust free" and that the entire under carriage is spotless and when I say spotless I mean show quality. If not, then don't bother doing this otherwise the undercoating can actually act as a moisture trap and cause problems. Just a pointer From what you said in your thread, it sounds like your off to a good start. I'd also go through and clean every electrical contact with a good electric cleaner. CAIG Deoxit is what I highly recommend. Do a search on this site about it and you'll see why. Also flush out the cooling system including the block and refill with new clean coolant, drop all fluids and change with new like engine oil and filter (Obviously) Transmission, differential gear oil, and I'd do an inspection of the suspension and front end components like ball joints, tie rods, brakes, ect. If all looks good, then go ahead and lube everything really well. It will probably need it bad being it's sat for a number of years. Where can you take old gas? Look in your phone book. I know where I live the city has a place where you can dump stuff like used oil, gas, ect. Otherwise maybe some auto shop will dump it for you. Don't hurt to ask. Best of luck and welcome aboard.

"Nope. Completely wrong. Datsun only fitted those ugly bumpers to meet US Law. The US government made them do it." Doesn't matter to me wheather Datsun was forced to or not. The point is they are on there for a reason and a damn good reason and I personally like the looks of them as much as the thinner, earlier ones. A neighbor of mine even made the comment to me when he was in my garage "They sure don't make quality bumpers on cars like this anymore. I laughed and said yeah, isn't that the truth

One of the biggest and most important differences I can think of between an early 240Z and a 260Z is the carbs. 260Z's unfortunately had the diseased Emission carbs but as you mentioned, that problem has been taken care of by the previous owner by installing the webers so it sounds likea good find to me. Congrats As far as the bigger bumpers go, thats kind of a personal opinion. I myself actually like both. I have a 280Z as you can see under my name with the original bumpers and I would never consider removing them. #1 I love to keep my Z ORIGINAL and secondly, Datsun put the bigger, thicker bumpers on the later 1st generation Z's for a reason. To protect there fragile noses But like I said, It's a personal opinion. Best of luck and enjoy your new project Z Car

kenz240z, Sounds like your reading out of the "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" book Just about everything you said is in that book For sure invest in a digital camera. I finally broke down and got one myself last year and it's been money well spent in my opinion. Once again, good luck with your project.

Well if your Z does have all the mechanical problems that you mentioned along with MINOR rust (don't want to ignor rust ) and you have the funds then I agree it's a good idea to restore her to her former glory. "Im really in no hurry to get it back together so im gonna take my time and do everything right." Good man Thats the key right there. Thats the kind of thinking that will reward you in the end. Best of luck

The answer is 5/16

Well what I just said above is what I would do. Performing tests with a meter I don't know what else to tell you. Wish I could be there to be more helpful.

DAMN, sorry to hear you still haven't figured it out. Well I don't know what your skill level is or what you have for tools but I think the only way to track down your problem fast is with a Multi-meter at the Transister Ignition Unit wires and follow the directions in the FSM to perform all the tests to pin point what the cause is. If you don't have a meter or FSM then you will be "bamboozled" for quiet a while You can't be without a FSM, fuel pressure gauge, Multi-Meter, or a Test Lite when owning a fuel injected Z :laugh: Good luck man hope you find the cause soon.