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cbuczesk

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cbuczesk last won the day on March 16

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About cbuczesk

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    Registered User

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  • Map Location
    Greencastle, PA

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Network Admin

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now
  • About My Cars
    1969 240Z - white w/blue interior, #390
    1970 Plymouth AAR 'cuda - 4-speed
    1970 Plymouth Road Runner 440+6 - 4-speed
    1971 240Z - project
    1971 Fairlady Z - project
    1972 510 wagon - project
    1972 240Z - ITS race car #0
    1972 240Z turbo - silver w/red
    1972 BMW 2002tii - Golf Yellow w/black
    1974 260Z turbo - Daytona blue w/black
    1974 BMW 2002turbo - white w/black
    1974 DeTomaso Pantera - red w/black
    1975 280Z - black w/black interior, my first car
    1976 280Z turbo - project
    1978 Datsun 620 KC - blue w/blue
    2002 Mini Cooper S
    2005 Lotus Elise supercharged - Yellow w/black

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  1. cbuczesk

    Wiper Arm Bolts. Quandary of the Day.

    I've seen it many, many times too. I figured it was for clearance to the cowl. Chuck
  2. cbuczesk

    Good Head?

    It looks good but you need to have a machinist check it out. Chuck
  3. Yes. That's an AAR 'cuda. Vitamin C orange, numbers matching, 4-speed, bucket seats... I always wear gloves. I'll wear a mask in tight spaces where there isn't good ventilation. I wear "headphones" that cover my ears and keep the harsh sounds out. Safety glasses and shields always allow debris to bounce around and end up in an eye. I've had good luck with the goggles so far. I once had a piece of metal get stuck in my eye that the Dr. had to remove. And then he ground my eyeball with a little die grinder. Fun times... Chuck
  4. Glad I could help! LOL. You can do it from inside the car but it's a pain. And I always find a way to get metal shavings in my eyes when I do that. I recently replaced the trunk floor in my AAR. I bought good goggles and hearing protection so I could grind all those welds inside the trunk safely. Good luck! Chuck
  5. The best way is to put it on a rotisserie, flip the car over and use a spot weld cutter on the floor. Welding form the underside makes it a lot quicker and easier to grind down your welds. Chuck
  6. cbuczesk

    Outer Sill (Rocker) Replacement

    I think A is the lower part of the inner panel below 1/4 window. It extends down into the rocker area for more support. Chuck
  7. cbuczesk

    71 ignition resistor question

    I'd guess that's for your ignition to the coil when the car is running. It's bypassed when cranking to start. If your Z has been converted to electronic ignition then the resistor might not be there. Look next to your coil. Chuck
  8. cbuczesk

    Field-Find 3 Datsun 240Zs

    I'd love to restore them but they're too far away to make it worth my time. I wish I had a 3-car trailer. Chuck
  9. cbuczesk

    Field-Find 3 Datsun 240Zs

    What town in southern NJ? Chuck
  10. cbuczesk

    Too rich for my blood

    More pics here: https://www.carsrememberwhen.com/inventory/1971-datsun-240z-/113591 Chuck
  11. cbuczesk

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    If you remove the engine and trans the job will be much easier! Chuck
  12. cbuczesk

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    I've fixed/replaced most of that before. How's the frame on the engine side? Chuck
  13. cbuczesk

    Lowering Bottom Spring Perch

    Another option is to remove the strut tops, heat them to remove the rubber insert, cut 1" (or whatever) off the rubber, insert into the metal cup and then fold the metal sides over to hold it in place. You'll want to cut 4 slices in the metal side to fold it over in 4 sections. Does that make sense? Chuck
  14. cbuczesk

    Cowl Hood Weatherstripping

    It looks correct to me...or at least close. It's the first pic. It might have to cut off a few inches since it's usually too long. Clean it well so the glue will hold. I use paint sticks and clamps to hold it on place while it dries. Chuck
  15. cbuczesk

    Difficult time fitting swaybar end links

    It seems like you have a lot of binding with that sway bar. I use an aftermarket bar and it pivots easily in the bushings so there's no issue connecting the end links. Maybe you can use a C clamp or something to pull the sway bar closer. Chuck
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