dkd021

similar to this one, except of course with the lines still in. I've searched the archives here for a few hours over the past couple of weeks & found some that are close, but I'm hoping someone can give me one that is at the same angle as the one I've taken of my engine area. I took my fuel lines/brake lines to get replated. Now I can't find my diagram to specify which lines go in what groove in the bracket. I don't need a restoration photo, just preferably one with the motor out. I just need to clarify that I've got my ducks in a row before I climb under there tonight &/or in the morning. I know, I could figure it out but it's been so hot here lately I am taking the easy way out asking for help rather than trying to figure it out (or look further for my diagram). Thanks for your help.

Unless you're a wizard when it comes to sheetmetal & all other body work/paint, I don't think you can restore (in the truest sense of the word) a car in that condition for under $40k today. It's taken me since early 2002 to find all of the parts I wanted with lots of trading, bartering, whatever it took in between.

I have a stock '72 & I need some help securing the metal fuel lines & brake lines to the firewall & engine bay. First, is there anywhere to buy new/reproduction rubber mounts that secure the lines in the brackets? The ones I have that didn't break, aren't very pliable. I have them in the car, but not seated & tightened down in the rubber mounts & brackets. I was wondering if there was a particular order in the the lines must go in the rubber seating that goes to the frame rail & firewall. It seems like it can be really easy to get them twisted & have them not fit right. I've spent quite a bit of time looking through the photo gallery to no avail. Does anyone have any detailed photos that could help "speel" it out for me? I've looked at my fiche & in the service manual but they weren't really as detailed as I'd like. I'm not certain & I'd like to do it all Saturday & get it done at once. My goal is to get it on the road by the first weekend in May. I hope once the fuel/brake lines are in it'll get the ball rolling.

I've got the same wheels on mine. I've always wondered what the "P/S" on the center cap was for.

Not saying it's the same car, but I looked at a white '70 low VIN on the side of the road a few years ago in that area. It was a decent 20 footer but had a good bit of rust. I think they were asking around $2500 back then.

Are you talking about this part? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-FRONT-VALANCE-CENTER_W0QQitemZ140064837797QQihZ004QQcategoryZ33638QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem My microfiche says it's part 62600-E4100, now F2600-E4100 & if available they're $130 or so. Regarding the difference in the two, I can't speak from experience because I'm most familiar with my '72. But the part number changed in 7/72. Could the ones you're referring to be for the '73, thus different? I didn't think they moved the turn signal lenses above the bumper until '74 but that's honestly a guess.

Well all of that makes sense, thank you.There just wasn't anything connected to the part in the seat back so I was confused. I'm going to take the seats to an upholstery shop along with the car to get the windshield posts & headliner properly installed. Edit: XRay, I considered re-using the headrests & the jute, but they stink so bad! I had to sand & respray the hip portions of the seat because they had a good bit of surface rust. I think the previous owner had a sweating problem. Well, maybe it was the dead AC & the GA humidity!

I've purchased both new seat foam & covers. I methodically removed the covers from my old seats. During this I noticed some things: 1. Upon removing the old foam I noticed a bar with an attached sliding bar with two rings in the back of the inside part of the seat. They weren't attached to anything & were located about where the seat back foam & headrest foam meet. What is its function? 2. The seat covers from Classic Datsun do not have the metal wire that runs through the end of the vinyl where they clip onto the bottom of the seats. It appears to me that this wire is necssary to provide additional support to the vinyl while under stress of the the bent clip & weight of a passenger in the seat. Shouldn't I have a new wire sewn into the new covers? 3. I got the seat back installed on one. However, it had the loose look that an amateur job is likely to have. How will a shop "fill the gap" if you will to remove the waves?

I doubt you'd have much luck selling an L24 on Ebay, especially if they're going to have to get it shipped. If someone's changing out an engine then they're likely going to get an L28.

There's a detailed thread on my question but unfortunately I've not been able to find it. I have had my tank professionally cleaned and pressure tested & all that is left is lining the tank. I bought the POR-15 tank liner & am prepared for the last step. My question is how have you gys plugged the vent tubes on the tank? Of course I don't want the liner to harden in the lines. I have thought of feeding some type of twine through the tubes with plenty of excess hanging out. When I was finished shaking & baking the tank then I could just pull the twine out by the Fuel Sender hole & the tubes would be clean. It seems like there's got to be an easier way because rarely are my ideas the best ones. Like I said, I remember a detailed thread on the subject recently but I can't find it. I was planning on doing this tonight if possible. Thanks, Danny

I guess my biggest problem is the spammers, & it's at best a minor annoyance. Actually, I like to email them & agree to buy a bunch of stuff if they'll send me a picture of themselves holding a sign. Pretty juvenile I suppose. I often visit a particular political blog. All new members have their first post held until they are read & approved by the site admin, much like the pictures here. None of those spam postings appear there but then again, it's more work for those in charge.

Sounds right to me too. It's as easy as pie & obvious as ever. I looked at this thing for 20 minutes & couldn't figure it out. Stupid question, easy answer, thanks.

I've got a '72 and I need to put the lighter in the dash. The flasher switch is easy because you simply unscrew it from th ebracket & slide it on through the front. Does the lighter do the same thing? I've looked at it but I'm afraid to try it because I'm sure I'll break it. But, I can't see how the lighter is supposed to site behind the dash and be right.

I'm finally putting the new parts in my dash. I just finished some vinyl trimming & now I have to drill the hole for the lock. I've received advice about using my Dremel & going slow. I've also been told to use an X-acto knife and trim away the foam backing but cut the vinyl into strips and fold back into the hole to make it a snug fit. The thing that bothers me is that no one has ever mentioned the black metal ring that is around the lock on my old dash. It has four clips that seat into the dash. Does anyone have any advice on how this piece goes in securely? I can just try it but I'd like to know if there's been anyone with experience with this before I try.

I have been riding the fence on whether or not to sell mine but lately I've been leaning on the side of keeping it for a few more years. Personally, I'd like to see a jump where the $18-20k cars become $28-30k cars. I think that would make my mind up real quick. But on the original part of the thread, I have suspicions about the seller of this car. Now I'm not saying it's the same person, but in June I got ripped off on Ebay buying some new front turn signals from a seller in Tigard, OR. They're different usernames but the person I bought them from did tell me they were selling them for someone else when I asked a question.

I've got an extra one here I think I can round up.

I guess I'll chime in about this auction too. I sold this guy a pair of "D" hubcaps about a year ago for $200 ( I had 3). The two that I sold him though, while very nice, did have some storage scratches & a couple of the clips on the back were bent up, which I mentioned in the auction. In fact, after I only got $200 for never installed "D" hubcaps I thought I might have exagerrated their flaws in the description. It was obvious that they had never been put on a car. They were prime 20 footers, heck 10 footers, but upon closer inspection the flaws would easily be noticed. I tried unsuccessfully to photograph the flaws in the auction but they were there. Now I'm not saying that these are the same hubcaps, they very easily could be different. Maybe these are his "show" caps & he had a set of "driving" caps, which is where the two I sold him come in. BUT, if two of them in this auction are the ones that came from me then someone may be a little disappointed after spending the kind of money we're talking here. I'm not trying to discourage anyone who's interested & I'm definitely not trying to say or insinuate anything negative about this seller. Only my experience with never installed "D" hubcaps.

Personally, I think the Ford Blue is too blue. I purchased a can labeled Ford Blue put it on the old alternator bracket, then compared it to a new one already painted from Nissan. The new Nissan bracket has a greater tint of green. I took the new bracket to the paint store & had a pint matched for about $40 last year. My camera is old but I think you can see the difference in the two. The second pic is my in-progress engine bay with a powdercoated valve cover.

I was a little disappointed because it went for ONLY $266. In my opinion it could have been a lot worse. Do any of you guys remember the $325 or so braided radiator hose a year or two back? Remember the "D" hubcap phenomena? Single hubcaps going for $330. I thought that was crazy.