Tourniqet

How does changing to coilovers effect the width of tire you can fit? I can see maybe minor changes because of lowering and making the a-arms a little more parralell to the ground but it seems that It would not be that much?!?!

I am not an expert on them, but I did notice them flipping through the pages of my haynes manual. It did have a little tutorial about replacing some filter on it. I can not remember how often or if it was the air filter on the bottom that one of you guys was talking about. It is in the book though...

OK, I plugged every hole in the little vacum bar above the manifold except one, which i put a 1/8th inch brass barb on. I ran 5/32 rubber hose to the vacum advance on the distributor. I does not seem to make much of a difference. My timming is still off, and quite a bit off. I did not have two people so I could not rev it and see if the vacume advance was working. When I shoot it with the timming light (on the 1st or 6th plug wire) the mark is about an inch or two above the indicator. I turned the mechanical advance and far as I could counter clock to try to get it to match up. I dont know why it is off so bad. Maybe my timing chain? Maybe my plug wires are one off in the distributor cap??? I dont know. Anyway, thats what I got thanks guys

You may be right. I Have the stock distributor hooked up but have a mallory with no vacume advance ready to go in a few days. So the vacum is just plugged. this could be the problem, I guess, because when i set the mechanical advance I seemed to be turning it alot! and it still was not linned up... I'll c if i can get it hooked up real quick, oh and by the way what do you guys think of the mallory dual pt ignition w/ no vacum advance... thanks

I have twin weber dgv's on a 73 240z with a 2.5 exhaust. The carbs are not tuned really great but they are the best I can get them. Is there only one screw on DGV's? When I accelerate hard from anywhere around 5-10 miles an hour I will lose all power right when i hit 60 usually right when i shift to third gear. The engine just kinda makes a vrrhhhhhh sound when i try to give it gass, it will slowly rev but wont have any power behind it. I just have to let it sit there while i coast and wait for it to regain itself, then it is fine again. I dont know the psi to the regulator, but i only run an electric fuel pump and there is some type of fuel regulator there (no psi rating). Also I have not had the valves adjusted yet, I have only had the car for a few hundred miles, but the previous owner said they probobly need it... Also does anyone know where I can order new pieces of the DGV, one of the idle mixture screws is stripped and wont stay in with the spring on it... Thanks guys

I have the 2.4 with weber dgv's and msa 6-1 header into a 2.5inch exhaust with a borla xs straight through muffler. The muffler is a straight pipe that goes from the left side of the muffler to the right, and is perforated on the inside and surrounded by fiberglass type material. It has a 2.5 inch steel tip on it. It sounds very good in my opinion. I use to have some no name muffler on there with a HUGE tip, you know what I am talking about, the ones that look like foldgers coffee cans tied to the back of civics. Anway I got this new system in and it sounds better but there is NO backpressure. I kind of want this because I am planning some other free flow mods to the engine, but not sure what i can do in the mean time to get maybe a little bit more power that might be lost because of it. Anyway here is a funny exhaust story. I am going to home depot because the bolts from my header to the 2.5inch exhause have fallen off and it sounds like satan himself. I pull up to a stoplight and the regular old harley dude comes puttin on up, and gives me a little nod because he likes the vintage car right. Then he gives me a little thunder from his pipes and looks over to see my reaction. I decided to give him a good 4,000rpm yulp from my car w/o the exhaust mind you, and it totally blew his harley away. He looks over at me and says "Son that is the first time thats ever happend to me" I drove away with a big smile on my face anyway, anyone have experience with straight through mufflers thanks

Hi guys, I believe this just recently started happening. When i press on the brakes they start to hiss. Even If i press lightly, and continue to the end of the pull. They are really soggy when you push on them and then have to mash them to the ground to get it to stop. I thought it was air in the system but did not know about the hissing. Also at idle when i press the brakes in about an inch they hiss and keep hissing. The engine does not drop RPM but runs alot rougher likes its out of timing, The whole car shakes from The engine. ALSO when i start teh car it WILL not go into gear untill it warms up, about a minute. Once it warms up the clutch stiffens up a bid,it starts loose. BUT if i start it cold in gear with the clutch all the way in it will creep forward like i am ridding the pedal half way out. AND if i start it up to warm up and press the clutch in and out about 15 times it will get a little harder to push and then it will go in nicely. IS any of this normal..? Anyway, Thanks alot!!!

I know J.C. Whitney has a LOT of good weather stripping and other generic resto stuff, but you never know if will fit or not you know...

Does anyone know where to find the thing that is stuck up in the window that seals it when it is rolled up??? It's like a little fuzzy V that pinches the window when it is rolled up...

Yes, there is no front bumper. But Texas z is going to get the other parts car this weekend I think, and there are two front bumbers in workable condition there I think. Thought I pm'd you about the bumper sorry.

I Know it sounds like I am trying to make some quick cash from stealing from the poor and selling to the rich, but that is not the case. Originally the car was free but then he told me to make him an offer, so I paid 200$ for the car. I spent 130 something renting the u-haul trailer plus a 17 dollar late fee. I spent 60$ on gas getting there and back, and also I paid a friend 50$ to keep it at his ranch. 200 130 60 17 50 my math aint that good but I think thats 457$'s So that is 43$ profit I am making if i sale this car at 500$ Which to tell you the truth I did not think that it would happen, that is why I said Negotiable. Figured I would start out trying to break even (assuming a weekend of me and my fathers time is worth 43$) Oh and probably another 20$ on gas to and from the ranch.

I would sell the whole thing for 500 neg. It is an hour outside of dallas. Has good set of slotted mags(good tires i think), good engine tranny and rear end, Good pannels sept for driver door and maybe front or rear driver quarter. All glass, sept driver door. It is missing most the lights, but electrical is there. Msg me back with what you think

I believe the a/c works. It never had a belt hooked up to it on my car, but the pump is BRAND new looking on the part that is clean, The other three sides have some gunk on it but it looks like it was replaced in the past 5 years. It has compression when i turn it. I also have the electric fan parts. And the ac condenser and a few hoses... My comp died so i havent replied latley. SORRY!

Hey guys just surfing for a Z specialty shop in Dallas and came across this site. http://www.mame.mu.oz.au/salman/specialists.html It has alot of good sites, and they are listed by country. If anyone knows a good z shop in Dallas TX or surrounding areas please tell me!!!!!

I have Just put Weber dgv's, MSA 6-1 header, 2.5 full exhaust on my 73 240z. It has not been tuned yet, except what I could manage, but I am wondering how much that could affect the performance. How much horsepower could be hidding behind my poorly tuned carbs, unadjusted valves and poorley tuned ignition. I ask this question because I am not sure if the l24 has enough potential to get my car to where I want it. I know the l26 has a different crank and that increases disp. The l28 bored a little bit. Both of these options dont seem a reality to me. I may be able to get a bud with the tools to do an engine swap in a weekend, but I probobly can't be taking my whole block apart... I have thought about a v8 swap or a tubo motor from a later model car. I would like to keep the engine under 1500, but will do what I have to do. Anyway post back with what you think and maybe some of your set ups and times. Criticizm welcome!

They were flat tops... Good working order, 91k miles on them

I have a 73 parts car with a good block and 4speed tranny, rear end and set of mag slotted wheels. 60% of the body pannels are good. It was SMASHED on the driver side so the passenger has all good parts and a good hood and other parts. Not to many interior parts but dont be shy in asking. This is Thefastestz's old car. It ran good untill wrecked and now it is less carbs exhaust and distributor. If you want engine tranny, rear end then you could take the whole car on its rolling chassis. Just gimme a ring, I have a lot of parts, and a full a/c from my project car, and other smog parts:ermm:

Most of these questions are because I had to custom fabricate (Jimmy rig) some parts on my car because of little things i forgot or incompatabilities. OK The output on the waterneck to my intake manifolds is blocked off... Is this ok? The vacume hose to the distributor is not hooked up, but the manifold hose is plugged (with a bolt and a tightly clamped hose clamp:ermm:) And lets see, I took all of the AC out, well most of it, is there anything i need to be carefull of because of that? The heater will come out soon too. Also I have the 73 with all the smog stuff (untill I ripped it all off and put dgv's on:devious:) so there is a coolant hose that runs arond the back of the engine by the firewall that connects to the intake manifold and also connects to the header, which is weird. But i just unplugged this and it does not leak. The previous owner had plugged the intake manifold coolant flow so I gues he plugged the other end of it into the waterneck at the base of the front of the engine. Although it still looks hooked up.... I have learned my lesson, I will definantly be more carefull next time. I should have taken a picture of all the screws left over that were under the car when it finally started running and I backed it out:stupid:. Anyway just wondering If i did anything that would make it blow up on me:D Thanks guys

Thanks for the information guys. next time I will do a search first!!! I was lookin around on the net, and found that the new 350z's have a tranny called FS6R31A I was wondering if this would bolt onto my 2.4 z motor... The numbers id numbers seem to be similar... Just dreaming

Does anyone know how to identify wich tranny I have and also which rear end? I have a 73 240 and it has a 5 speed in it... I dont think this was available for that year was it?

Most of the "special engines" are just differnt heads. All of the N42 e88 etc. are head ID#'s. I know there is a year or two that have siamesed cylinders and are better or worse for racing, I forget. If you search the forums for "different heads" you can come across a few good posts.

It is very addicting, besides driving 800 miles round trip for parts and scavenging e-bay I have gone from 0 -80 some posts in about a month or so of having this car!

I just pulled the a/c off of my car It was working when it has a belt on it, which was like 2 years ago... The pump has good compression still. I dont like any accesory that isnt vital... And since I am a lifeguard I never have a shirt on anywayROFL