Tourniqet

that is a perfect bell curve...

I am takingthe heater and A/C out of my car. I hat a little incident with the heater hose today trying to take the heater module out from under the dash, let me just say I felt like It was open heart surgeury on my z... Anyway I got all the coolant drained I want to plug the heater lines fromt eh block and the lower waterneck. I was thinking of just turning the 90* elbow at the back of the block (closest to window) towards the front of the block and then connect it to the other tube coming off the lower waterneck. I dont know if this is feasible but It seemed like it would work to me. Seems like the same system just a 20' line instead of the whole heater system. I was just concerned about how this would affect the flow of the system, if it would better to just plug the elbow coming out of the back fo the block and the extra tube coming from the lower waterneck. Also does anyone have any clever ways of hooking the pcv valve (or whichever one that is on top of the valve cover) back into the air filters boxes on weber DGV's??? ok thanks alot guys Allen

I have weber DGV's, They seem to be the second choice of the weber family considering the DCOE's but they are still good carbs in my opinion. I don't know much about carbs and got them to run pretty good, so they are reletively simple. They make good power for me. Some say they dont flow as well as the DCOE's because they are downdraft carbs, but I think this would only be a restraint higher race-like applications. I would have chosen the DCOE's but no one was giving them away, like they were the DGV's :classic:

I hope they arent either. I think the next time I go home I will adjust them again. I had so much fun and I want to do them hot this time...

Thanks for all the info Bambikiller, You are probably right, I should not be jumping into things without experience, or any help. Part of the reason why I bought this car was to figure stuff out first hand. I started her up and it was a good bit quieter. It ran a good bit smoother, and everything seems to be in the positive. Half way through I thought i would not be able to tell the difference, because the adjustments seemed pretty small. I think I was wrong. I am pretty pumped about it because it made such a difference, and I could not have done it perfect on my first time so It can only get better. oh and ya I forgot to take the little mouse trap spring guys off...

no ther is not really. I already did it. I started out hot but only got two or 4 done. Then I decided I did not want to keep warming it up because each valve took me like 20 minutes. So I let it cool off and did them cold. I got a lot better after the first two or three. Only question I had was that the rocker had a little bit of play in it. Like it kind of lightly spring up off the lash pad a bit. I just pushed it against the pad and then used the feeler gauge, is this ok? Also who ever reads this please post your "techniques" for using the feeler gauge. Also my oil bar is bent well not really the bar but the piece that connects the bar to the cam tower. It does not get in the way of the internals and is still sturdy... I uploaded pics into my gallery of the head with the cover off and the oil bar. please tell me what you guys think. I am going to go start her up now and see if I tunned it any better than it already was...

This may not be an emergency, but I have the engine warm and want to start adjusting. Do I drain the oil before I adjustthe valves??? also any other info on adjusting would help.

Hmm. I set the timing to whatever the mark is. You guys say 10 BTDC but I dont know what that is so, I just lined up the mark with the pointer when the light was on the first spark plug (one closes to radiator). It ran better but, I forgot to put the vacume back on when I took it for the test drive. When I put it on it ran even better. I am not really sure what "pinging" is but I suppose it is when you you give the car a little gas at lower rpms usually, and it kind of hops, bogs and hesitates on you. I read some posts about guys just adjusting timing untill it does not ping... Well I would like to do this but dont know wether I advance or retard for less ping, if that even is pinging. I am going to the auto store now to get a "feeler gauge". I know all of you guys encourage learning how to tune your vehicle for many valid reasons, but I have never adjusted valves before. So wish me luck or post quickly and tell me to stop HAH

Rusty I think you are right. I took the cap off the dist. and sucked and could not see it move... Then I sucked really hard, and right before I started to see stars, I saw the little diaphram move. So I suppose that It sould be hooked up to the manifold. Thanks speedyblue for the post about the second bolt that will lossen the adjustment collar on the dist. My collar was right in the middle. I turned it quite some bit and have the feeling when I time it today that I will have to turn the other one a bit as well. Is this normal? Maybe I hooked the plug wires up one in retardation.:cross-eye Thanks guys I was searching the forum last night and could not find enough novice friendly advice on adjusting the points. I think I could physically do it with the wrenches and the jam nut, how do you measure the gap??? with what? I thought it had to be some fancy micrometer or something?

I was told by a fellow member that the advance should not run off the intake manifold. It should be the front carb ??? He said it was WAY to much vacum and would probably ruin the diaphram in the distributor. He may have been right because I set it up that way and then a week later tried to test the vacum by sucking on the hose into the dist, nothing... Which way is advance when i turn the distributors mecanical advance, clockwise or counterclock?

HI guys, I am back from school for the weekend and my girlfriend is all tied up with school so that leaves time for the other lady in my life. I think I have recently messed some stuff up on my car (again). Here are my questions. 1. Where do all the hoses on the intake manifold go? They are plugged right now. (I have no smog stuff and weber dgv's) 2. How can I tell if i need new points, rotor etc.? 3. Can I hook my stock distribs vacum advance to my DGV's? (if so where) 4. I try to set the timing but the mech advance on the distributor will not turn that much. Can it be that out of whack? (or maybe I am going for the wrong notch...) 5. Oh and also how DO you you set the timing. (73 240) THanks PS more will probably come up...

so you take all the plugs out and then crank it one cylinder at a time? do you warm engine up and then take all the plugs out for better reading? I just bought an old compression tester at an estate sale and would like to test it out.

Please elaborate on your findings bill. I have the same problem and was wondering what to do about it.

Maybe I have pushed this thing out of proportion. I am 20 years old in college and do not have large amounts of money, large knowlege about z's, and large amounts of time. I guess my imagination ran away with this one. I bought the e-31 head for a little more punch in my 2.4, and thought larger valves was an easy swap. Also a new cam and springs are in order. The car needs new floorpans and some suspension (tie rod ends, lower ball joints, struts etc.) I put weber dgv's on it and 2.5 inch exhaust. I think I just really want this car to be my daily driver. I guess I dont have the tools, money, time, and most importantly the know how to be swaping blocks and other such things. I just want to get this head on and have a solid car. What would you guys suggest are some of the most econmy minded upgrades that I dont have to have an engine stand for? Thanks alot Allen

oh and also I hear that better valvetrain components (light rockers, stout springs etc.) help the rpm's. So do you guys know anywhere to get the goods for an e31 head. I think they can take later l28 valves...

Another novice question probably. I have a 2.4 with dgv's and a 2.5 inch exhaust and I love the high RPM's... The Tach says it goes up to around 7000 and even more. I was racing a 2003 honda civic si, and I beat him on high revs alone. I want more power from my engine, and sone solid upgrades would probably be boring it ot to a 2.6 or boring and stroking to a 2.8. I have heard that stroking the engine will significantly lower the usable RPM. I just bought an e-31 head, and plan on inspecting it, doing some polishing and maybe porting. If I can find a good machine shop I may get it milled. ANYWAY I wanted to know if you guys had experience or opinions with different motor bores. Also how hard is it to bore my block to a 2.6 or bore and stroke to a 2.8? Anyway the more I read about cars the more I feel like I am retarded. Thanks for the info, Allen

Those wheels look to fit the car well, I thought 9 inch rear wheels would stick out like a sore thumb! how did you do it without fender flares!?!?!

240zx That is a GORGEOUS car!!! What type of fuel pressure gauge is that? Are those custom fule rail/tubing. What kind of electric radiator is that? Enough with the questions tell me EVERYTHING!

Hmm. That makes sense but I though the space between the wheel and the inside of the fenderwell would be a bigger issue. At least in the front where the wheels turn...