26th-Z

Check Banzai Motorworks at zzxdatsun.com for the fender flaps. Item # BO-54 I think they are $5 each. Been down that road before. The drain extension is a great idea. I welded a tab inside the fender to hold the tube and cut it off flush with the bottom of the fender. The next owner or your heirs will appreciate you for it!

You did very well on the price. I am still getting accustomed to the rising values of Z's and I am encouraged with what I see in the market.

It makes my heart smile to see such nice cars out there. I am against the notion of changing the transmission, but suit yourself. Am anxious to hear what you paid. Would have to agree that anything under 5K would be a good deal.

I'm about to dip my little beauty because I think blasting is too radical. I have blasted cars before and blasting can easily pit the metal. Will be posting my dip experiences in the near future. The last time I did a major paint job and body work was in 1992 and I paid $4700. The car was stripped to rolling chassis and sanded to bare metal; top side with minor floor and frame work. I was told the other day to expect to pay in the $4700 range just for the paint job. I believe this is a business of "you get what you pay for"and since I am expecting stunning results, so am I expecting to pay a stunning price. I'm in Florida also and will visit a place in Wauchula called "Revivations" next weekend. They came highly recommended from my restoration friends in Naples.

There is a small discussion of lead fuel additives in the Engine forum - search lead additive. Basically lead is good for the older cars without steel hardened valve seats and valve guides. Use a high octane fuel always. If you know you have hardened valve seats and guides, don't use a lead additive.

Don't forget to mention differing metal and fiberglass headlight buckets!

Always ask first, but my experience with this seller is that they are probably genuine Nissan.

I used my 1969 Z as a daily driver between 1986 and 1990 and then between 1993 and 2000. I know the car was a daily driver from birth to 1980. Testimony to Datsun - this car ran reliably all the time. It was serviced plenty, and went through its share of repairs, but generally speaking it was always kept up and maintained like any normal car should. I can't think of any one thing that broke before a long service life. Probably rust maintenance is the worst problem requiring the longest repairs. After I restore it within the next three years, I will use her for pleasure only.

From Internet Z Car Club technical topics - color codes for North American Cars: 1970/71 Exterior Color Interior Color: Silver 901 Black Dk. Blue 903 Black / Lt. Blue White 904 Black / Blue Red 905 Black Dk. Green 907 Tan Orange 918 Black Yellow 919 Black Gold 920 Black (#920 aka - Mustard) 1972 Exterior Color Interior Color: Silver 901 Red White 904 Red Orange 918 Black / White Red 110 White / Black Yellow 112 Black (#112 aka: Lime ) Green Metallic 113 Tan Brown Metallic 114 Tan (#114 aka: CoCo Brown) Blue Metallic 115 White 1973 Exterior Color Interior Color: Note 1 USA: Canada Silver 901 Black Black White 904 Red N/A in Canada Orange 918 Black Black Red 110 Black Beige Yellow 112 Black Black (#112 aka: Lime ) Green Metallic 113 Brown Brown Brown Metallic 114 Brown Brown (#114 aka:CoCo Brown) Blue Metallic 115 Beige Beige

No fuel cell - restoration. I did this once before in 92 and I'll be doing at again this summer. Still working on finding a home to take it apart. I think July will be productive.

I learned a quite a bit from this discussion - my tank and vent system will be coming out this summer. It will be interesting to see what I have in 26.

Carl Beck wrote me this morning with this comment: That is correct. Emissions Standards are implemented by the US on an "as of" date. They then apply to any car produced "as of" that date. The evaporative emission controls were not required by the US until 1 Jan. 1970. None the less Nissan intended to sell the 240-Z's as 1970 Model Year vehicles here in the US. So they started equipping cars ahead of 1 Jan. 1970 - but they had limited supply to begin with and only part of the cars coming to the US, built in 1969 were equipped with the vapor recovery tanks ( none of the 69 production cars that went to Canada had them and most didn't even have air pumps)

Yea, me too, Bambikiller. I doubt it has been hacked. In 1968, the Feds passed the "Evaporative Emmissions Control Act" and all cars had to have a recovery system according my Datsunmeister. Our cars should have had something. I plan to see Carl on 20 June and will consult with his meistership on the subject. I will also see Jim Frederick and will be able to ask his meistership. I will capture a photo opp if I get the chance.

Further, Compare the part numbers of the gas tank to the corresponding vent tank numbers. The E4100 gas tank is listed up to 7/73 as is the second listing E4600 with evapo. The original vent tank, 17350-E4600 lists only to 8/71 and then E4601 continues to 7/73. E4600 doesn't list with Nissan but E4601 does; $127.29 if it is still available.

Thanks for the part # references. From the sound of it, I'll be looking for a vent tank. Scotty-the-Datsunmeister concurs that early tanks were plastic and that they broke. I won't get my gas tank out for another month, but I'll check my vent situation and let you know. I have only one vent hose through the rear floor just behind the tail light - where that boot goes. Glad to see you dealt with the straps.

Looks like I may be a clown on the vapor recirculating tank issue, Mark. May have been one of those plastic tank explanations. My research isn't looking good. I use PB Blaster, but any penetrating oil will work better than WD-40. I want to try the Sili-Kroil. Soaking has always brought me luck on the tough ones. Soak it for days - keep it wet! Gas tank straps and J-bolts are hard to come buy because they all rusted. I finally got my Parker 821 braided hose and it looks great.

I made a CAD drawing of a Z (2d plan view) for you CAD drafters out there. It was drawn in a late version of the popular Auto Cad - .dwg format and I'll e-mail it to you. I know I can save it back to v14 and I might be able to save it back to v12. Let me know what you require. I design custom homes and I frequently design custom garages. I like to fill the garages with cars on my presentation drawings. This drawing is to scale, ready to drop in your plans. I was going to post it on E-bay as one-of-a-kind, RARE, hand constructed import from Electronapan with a low starting reserve of $240 but I didn't think anyone would get the sarcasm. The attached is a jpg export. Try it and let me know what you think!

My parts fiche shows the fuel recovery system and is no help at all. If memory serves me, the gas tank vent hoses come up through the floor and then turn toward the filler inside the car. Your picture shows the T valve (Nissan part 17227-E4100) and the hoses, but not where they pass through the floor. There is a rubber grommet for the opening and the boot fits over the opening, sealing the hose on the inside of the car. I'm going to have to look at mine and take a picture. The hose just doesn't simply pass inside the car through a grommet. It is sealed with the boot.

Mark, I found gas tank vent hose boots - both large and small - at Banzai Motorworks in MD. It would be good to replace yours with their Part #'s GF-17 and 18 for about $15. I can't emphasize the need to seal the vent system. Check the T fitting and I would use a hose prep / sealer when I put it back together. I did this procedure in 92 and will do it again with the current project. Installation is a real pain. If you get gasoline fumes in the car after filling the tank, you have a vent leak. Banzai is at www.zzxdatsun.com 301-420-4200 I have a big list for them. You demonstrate to me the need to get a digital camera. I'm photographing the old way. I have the parts to send my carbs off to Z Therapy in July. Radiator is restored. Collected most of the parts for the engine bay and I'm focusing on collecting brake parts at the moment. I found a better shop to work on the car and made a major score on industrial shelving - a bunch of it. Work proceeds slowly. I pulled the drive and half shafts Saturday.

No Mark, You have just discovered one of the fine intricacies of the early series one model. No venting system! The tube just comes down the wheel well as you describe. Do make sure all your hoses and fittings are secure and sealed when you reassemble or you will get gas fumes in the back of the car. Good luck. I found this job a real pain in the arse.

I think the plate looks real good between those snazzy driving lights! Would like to talk to you about your literature collection.

Oops, got it backwards. Switches - #9 is early 70 and #10 probably 71 on. I'm going to write a book about the parts differences.

I copied off these two shots from the archived forums. One is about the interior switches, and the second is a front shot of a license plate I would like to have.

As long as you are on-line, let me ask how you came up with the numbers so fast. Do they appear in a fiche you have and if so, what section?