26th-Z

Hello DJACEY, Saw this and thought of you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33705&item=2459091201&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT BTW, I found a working antenna switch for you. Chris

Larry, I can't find the particular site I wanted to recommend as a starter, but just do a "rust removal" search and start reading about the electrolytic rust removal process. You will find that most restorers of investment grade automobiles will prefer this method. It is comprehensive and the only way to completely remove rust from a body shell such as ours. Sand blasting will pit the metal and won't get inside the chassis. Acids are difficult to remove and stabilize. There are all kinds of encapsulators, including the POR so popularly discussed on this site, but they only encapsulate rust. They do not remove it. I was a big believer in OSPHO, but have changed my tune. The cost of my dip will be $1200 for the chassis only. Doors, deck lid and fenders are extra. The company I have been dealing with is Poineer Restorations in Wauchula, Florida and their dipping facility is Revivations. Look for a big story and write-up from me in the next few months. This is what I am currently doing to my shell.

Paint scraper, putty knife, wire brush, dust mask, heat gun. You will need the heat gun to put new tar mat back down. Replace the jute and the adhesive is most like 3-M's brand yellow adhesive contact cement. Pain-in-the, isn't it?

Diamond vinyl was original.

I know you guys are always looking and I saw a car with a good tray this weekend. The yard owner thought it was "Saturday on eBay" and I didn't even ask what he wanted to cut it out. I may go back and I'll deal if he's real with a price. Thanks

What is a used tray cut out of a junk yard car worth? They are around. I saw one this weekend. What's the going junk yard rate to cut one out?

Kieth, You will find this picture on IZCC's www.zhome.com site at the bottom of the menu - reference pictures - 1970 brochure. The fender bolts are painted. My Z has painted hood hinges, but that area has been painted numerous times over the life of the car and I am not 100% certain. However, I will be painting mine unless someone can convince me otherwise. It makes sense to me that the hinges would have been painted.

Hey Marty Rogan! LeBaron Bonney has all kinds of restoration stuff http://www.lebaronbonney.com/catalog.htm

And I thought I had a nice collection of models! Wow. Do you build the models, or have them in boxes as I do? Post a photo of the models. There are some good ones there! I'm saving the models for when I am old and in the nursing home. When I am too old to drive slow in the left lane.

There is a group of car collectors that defines the term "Classic" very well and may I introduce you to the Classic Car Club of America. Most any car collector will direct you to this definition and regardless of what we say about our Zeds, this is the recognized definition. "...fine or unusual motor cars which were built between and including the years 1925 to 1948. All of these are very special cars which are distinguished by their respective fine design, high engineering standards and superior workmanship." They were usually quite expensive when new with relatively low production figures. There is no question in my mind that the Datsun 240Z is a significant automotive milestone, including fine design and high engineering standards, but using the word classic is like playing the 240Z on the "elevator music radio station" when we all know it belongs on "rock and roll". I would hate to see one of you stick your foot in your mouth and use the term incorrectly as I have. Check out the CCCA glossary of terms http://www.classiccarclub.org/Glossary.htm

I didn't want to get into bashing the ebay deal because I think it's beyond our business, this isn't a courtroom, but I really took exception to some of the terminology used to describe what should have been and what wasn't represented and who said what etc. Essentially, a car was sold on eBay advertised as "all original" and the buyer was wondering how a "professional restorer" could advertise that way. I felt it necessary to rant and rave about what constitutes professional restoration services and the controversy went on from there. AACA discusses acceptable alterations between pages 76 and 83. Similar issues are discussed in the Z.C.C.A. manual. Do you guys think this is all pretty cut and dried clear? Or, do you have comments about some of the things that may be unavoidable due to NLA parts and new techniques. Any experienced judges wish to comment on what they see at shows?

I got into it on another site about terminology concerning the description of cars and thought of a thread in which we discussed judging rules and classification of cars at shows. I can't find the thread, but we mentioned the "Official Z.C.C.A. Z-Car Judging Manual" and the "240Z Restoration Program Quality Control Checklist". The judging rules of the Antique Automobile Club of America would apply http://www.aaca.org/ The 86 page document is available in PDF format for printing or you can buy it for $3 I have seen the term "all original" used quite liberally and misleadingly. What I got off on was the notion of "professional restoration"; another misunderstood concept I see thrown around at will. I encourage everyone to take a look at AACA with respect to what they say about restoration techniques, materials, and part replacements. AACA has over 60,000 members and is pretty much the accepted standard in the car collecting community. Have a look and tell me what you think!

That is a lockset for later models and although it will certainly fit the early series cars, it is not original replacement for them. The series one cars had a separate ignition key and the aux. electrical connection for the ignition is on the side of the switch unit. Just a clarification. All the parts do fit, in my experience.

Let us know how that turns out, Mike. It looks way cool.

Oops

And another

So, what is the story behind this woman and why is she painted on so many different cars?

I don't understand a word of it. But this Ok! The pictures of the cars are great! It looks like everyone is having too much fun.

Thanks for the links, Guus. I surfed all around, found two videos and many pictures. It was great. #266 did pretty well. I think 11th and third in class IV 4.

All except for the verification part. We are showing a few mistakes. HL cars came with an L24 and an L28 engine. The difference is L24 engined cars (1970-1973) show five serial numbers (HLS30-00026) and L28 engined cars (1975-1978) had six serial numbers. RL cars had an L26 engine (1974-1975). L26 engines also appear in world export cars from 1974-1978. The Japanese market L20 engines (1970-1975) are single overhead cam and the S20 engine for the PS30S and PS30SB chassis had dual overhead cams, two liter. The engine description for home market Fairlady Z's is probably the one common mistake I see most often. Typical Fairladys came with 2 liter, single overhead cam, engines L20 and L20E (fuel injection). The 432 / 432R variant came with the S20 engine. And no, it was not made by an aftermarket company "like Scarab".

Great explanation, Gavin! Begining with the 260Z, and 'R' designation letter for the L26 engine, Datsun added another digit to the serial code sequence apparently because they were selling far more cars than they originally envisioned

hls30.com, you got some of the serial number stuff right, but not enough of it. How about this? When did Datsun convert from 5 digit serial numbers to six digit serial numbers and explain the coding letters involved. With all due credit to Alan, the sleuth that he is, I'll post an interesting photograph to the winner.

Gav, were you thinking of Datsun Freeway? http://www.datsun-freeway.com/index.html They have them. Bring your wallet. Try Chloe. She had them. Bring your wallet. I love that expression; bring your wallet.

I get these e-mails all the time, from supposedly Paypal, eBay, and my internet provider. They all have an investigation site and you can fight back by FORWARDING the suspicious e-mail to them. Paypal's is spoof@paypal.com Since we are on the topic, I have noticed a lot of virus containing e-mails, lately. Some of them are "about your order", "order confirmation", "your parts order", and "information about your parts request". At first, I thought about identitiy theft as I didn't order anything or didn't request anything and it looked suspicious. The virus software usually picks it up, but I am discussing this with words of caution. Keep track of what you order and what you request. Take a look at your accounts every now and then or get them to send you a monthly statement. Virus software can not be over-emphasized. It's a stormy climate out there - slap a raincoat on that computer!