26th-Z

Drain the oil and fill the engine with new. Change the oil filter and pre-fill it half way before you put it on. (do it fast!) Take the spark plugs out and squirt some light oil (3-in-1) oil in the cylinders. I would take the valve cover off and oil the cam. Crank the engine over on the starter until you see pressure on the gauge. It wouldn't hurt to clean out all the old gas from the carbs and fill them with new, change the fuel filter and engine belts. Flush the radiator system. Replace the points, condensor, spark plug wires and spark plugs. Then start it. If it's been sitting for ten years, it will need a new air filter also.

I have a set of those - '80s Bosche? Yep, $300

This is a real good thread about splash pans http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9281&highlight=splash+pans

Just amazing Rick. I think that is HLS30-00019 with a build date of 10/69 taken on the banks of the Mississippi in the old Weeping Willow Park before they built the condominuims. Notice the dealer slotted mags and the tread pattern in the tire is the Japanese Bridgestone 175-SR14. How about the dealer rocker stripe? Did you know the gas cap thumb latch is actually chromed plastic? There are no end caps on the rear bumpers and the hatch glass is clear - no defrosters on the real early cars. Wow, that's an old picture! Taken before rust was invented!

The two sources I would recommend would be Classic Datsun Motorsports http://www.classicdatsun.com/ or Banzai Motorworks http://zzxdatsun.com/

Try a search through our forums for "wire connectors" and see if you can find some of the other great recommendations. I just used EagleDay.com http://store.yahoo.com/eagleday/blco.html with good luck. Or, ask Chloe if she can find you the real thing. http://www.midwestz.com/index.htm

Hello DJACEY, Saw this and thought of you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33705&item=2459091201&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT BTW, I found a working antenna switch for you. Chris

Larry, I can't find the particular site I wanted to recommend as a starter, but just do a "rust removal" search and start reading about the electrolytic rust removal process. You will find that most restorers of investment grade automobiles will prefer this method. It is comprehensive and the only way to completely remove rust from a body shell such as ours. Sand blasting will pit the metal and won't get inside the chassis. Acids are difficult to remove and stabilize. There are all kinds of encapsulators, including the POR so popularly discussed on this site, but they only encapsulate rust. They do not remove it. I was a big believer in OSPHO, but have changed my tune. The cost of my dip will be $1200 for the chassis only. Doors, deck lid and fenders are extra. The company I have been dealing with is Poineer Restorations in Wauchula, Florida and their dipping facility is Revivations. Look for a big story and write-up from me in the next few months. This is what I am currently doing to my shell.

Paint scraper, putty knife, wire brush, dust mask, heat gun. You will need the heat gun to put new tar mat back down. Replace the jute and the adhesive is most like 3-M's brand yellow adhesive contact cement. Pain-in-the, isn't it?

Diamond vinyl was original.

I know you guys are always looking and I saw a car with a good tray this weekend. The yard owner thought it was "Saturday on eBay" and I didn't even ask what he wanted to cut it out. I may go back and I'll deal if he's real with a price. Thanks

What is a used tray cut out of a junk yard car worth? They are around. I saw one this weekend. What's the going junk yard rate to cut one out?

Kieth, You will find this picture on IZCC's www.zhome.com site at the bottom of the menu - reference pictures - 1970 brochure. The fender bolts are painted. My Z has painted hood hinges, but that area has been painted numerous times over the life of the car and I am not 100% certain. However, I will be painting mine unless someone can convince me otherwise. It makes sense to me that the hinges would have been painted.

Hey Marty Rogan! LeBaron Bonney has all kinds of restoration stuff http://www.lebaronbonney.com/catalog.htm

And I thought I had a nice collection of models! Wow. Do you build the models, or have them in boxes as I do? Post a photo of the models. There are some good ones there! I'm saving the models for when I am old and in the nursing home. When I am too old to drive slow in the left lane.

There is a group of car collectors that defines the term "Classic" very well and may I introduce you to the Classic Car Club of America. Most any car collector will direct you to this definition and regardless of what we say about our Zeds, this is the recognized definition. "...fine or unusual motor cars which were built between and including the years 1925 to 1948. All of these are very special cars which are distinguished by their respective fine design, high engineering standards and superior workmanship." They were usually quite expensive when new with relatively low production figures. There is no question in my mind that the Datsun 240Z is a significant automotive milestone, including fine design and high engineering standards, but using the word classic is like playing the 240Z on the "elevator music radio station" when we all know it belongs on "rock and roll". I would hate to see one of you stick your foot in your mouth and use the term incorrectly as I have. Check out the CCCA glossary of terms http://www.classiccarclub.org/Glossary.htm

I didn't want to get into bashing the ebay deal because I think it's beyond our business, this isn't a courtroom, but I really took exception to some of the terminology used to describe what should have been and what wasn't represented and who said what etc. Essentially, a car was sold on eBay advertised as "all original" and the buyer was wondering how a "professional restorer" could advertise that way. I felt it necessary to rant and rave about what constitutes professional restoration services and the controversy went on from there. AACA discusses acceptable alterations between pages 76 and 83. Similar issues are discussed in the Z.C.C.A. manual. Do you guys think this is all pretty cut and dried clear? Or, do you have comments about some of the things that may be unavoidable due to NLA parts and new techniques. Any experienced judges wish to comment on what they see at shows?

I got into it on another site about terminology concerning the description of cars and thought of a thread in which we discussed judging rules and classification of cars at shows. I can't find the thread, but we mentioned the "Official Z.C.C.A. Z-Car Judging Manual" and the "240Z Restoration Program Quality Control Checklist". The judging rules of the Antique Automobile Club of America would apply http://www.aaca.org/ The 86 page document is available in PDF format for printing or you can buy it for $3 I have seen the term "all original" used quite liberally and misleadingly. What I got off on was the notion of "professional restoration"; another misunderstood concept I see thrown around at will. I encourage everyone to take a look at AACA with respect to what they say about restoration techniques, materials, and part replacements. AACA has over 60,000 members and is pretty much the accepted standard in the car collecting community. Have a look and tell me what you think!

That is a lockset for later models and although it will certainly fit the early series cars, it is not original replacement for them. The series one cars had a separate ignition key and the aux. electrical connection for the ignition is on the side of the switch unit. Just a clarification. All the parts do fit, in my experience.

Let us know how that turns out, Mike. It looks way cool.

Oops

And another

So, what is the story behind this woman and why is she painted on so many different cars?

I don't understand a word of it. But this Ok! The pictures of the cars are great! It looks like everyone is having too much fun.