26th-Z

Thanks Kats! Great photo!

I would like to contribute a few observations being retired from the SCCA myself. Racing is about winning. I think if you are not on the track to go as fast as you can go and make every attempt to win, then you are blocking traffic. I don't see many Z cars beating Porsches here in Central Florida these days. Could be just here. People, in general, like to talk about how much money they spend. Usually, and I say usually, people who don't spend much money on their cars have a slow and ugly car. Generally, I agree that spending a ton of money does not necessarily get you into the winner's circle. It d o e s take some talent.

Thanks Greatwhite! Watching Michael and Ferrari make history has been fun. We'll see how it unfolds this year.

I can hardly wait. What do you think of the new Renault?

Victoria British http://www.victoriabritish.com/ and Motor Sport Auto www.zcarparts.com Probably the two most plentiful parts resources.

Hello Dave - everyone! Nice conversation! Great job on the oil pan. The place I am using is called Revivations and they are in Wauchula, Florida. (You should have seen the town after the hurricanes got through with it). They have a big metal building with two fiberglass tanks and a big rolling chain hoist down the center. The floor is drained for liquid recovery. Cars are brought in on fork lifts and set in the hoist baskets. The first tank is some sort of water soluble paint stripper solution and the car sits in the tank for around two weeks. Then it is pressure washed with hot water and inspected. If more crap needs to come off, it is dumped back in the stripper tank. Otherwise, the car is submerged in the electrolytic tank for several days. I think they rotate the car in the tank a couple of times. After it dries, they blow the car with high pressure air. There is about a six week time frame to seal the metal up before it starts rusting again. This process does not harm plastic or the lead fillers in the body shell. My avatar is Her Majesty the 26th sitting in the field net to the metal building. She should be back in March and I am spending $1,400 for the body shell. I may take the doors, fenders and such depending on what my bodyshop guy thinks when we get to that point. I had a wheel cleaned by them and I had them strip a set of hubcaps before I sent them off to be re-chromed. Electrolytic is the way to go as far as I am concerned. I'm lucky to have this place so close. Try cutting down a plastic 50 gallon drum to use for a tank and experiment with the size and placement of your anode (?) sheet of steel. Make sure the solution concentration is correct. Try rotating your pieces and leaving them submerged for different periods of time. The cleaner the piece is before the electrolytic process, the better the results. Even though the piece may not be in direct sight of the anode (?), the derusting process is still happening. Just at a slower rate. Direct sight is important, but the process is still working. The acid dipping process is what the hydrogen in the metal controversy is all about. Not the elecrolytic process. Long exposure to phosphoric acid is what makes the metal brittle. Even though the plating process is the same as this in reverse, different solutions are used. Eastwood sells kits for plating, including a kit to plate in the golden cadmium / zink for our Datsun hardware. I think the kit is too expensive. I'm sending my stuff out. I think this IS the ultimate solution (no pun intended) because it will get the rust completely out of the body shell. The trouble I have with 26 is inside the shell structure. She is rusting out from the inside. Now, I don't know where you all live, but in Sarasota, $1,000 is barely enough down payment for a small hot tub.

Serious thanks for going through all the trouble to write that piece! That right there, ladies and gentlemen, is exactly what I am up to for rust removal during the restoration of my cars. A degreaser / paint remover is used to strip the part clean. Then the solution I have been describing as alkalyn is used for the electrolytic process. Great discussion and excellent references.

I don't think the story is true, Kats. Remember the solid casting emblem I showed you at the convention? Matsuo san told me it was the earliest type chrome Z from the initial make of the emblems. I think "240 Z" came from the design studios in Japan. HLS30-00042 has the solid cast chrome Z emblems. The NA test cars had no emblems. I think they did that on purpose because the car was being tested and not released for sale yet.

Gee, Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings is selling a red interior www.datsunzparts.com saw the add this morning.

Ok! I finally figured it out! Hey there Capt! Nice car. Hope to see you at Z-Fest regardless. My Z won't be finished in time, so don't not come because you don't have a car.

Lets hear about this "new" '70 240, Mark. Did you buy the white / blue one in Miami?

My green shirts say "26th-Z". The white shirt says "HLS30-00026". I'm working the car show and will be around the event through Saturday. I don't know if I am going up to the autoX on Sunday, but I could be easily talked into it. It looks like 20 or more cars will be there from the Tampa area. You can buy me that beer, seerex! See you Friday night at Hooters.

The event is really coming together, Gus! A lot of e-mail enthusiasm is circulating around the Suncoast Club. I hear the guys in Maryland have been talking about it. For all those planning to come down for some Florida sunshine (pray for good weather), our nights get quite cool even though it is wise to wear sunscreen during the day. This time of year can also be quite breezy. The very first bit of spring is here. The orange trees are starting to blossom! Woo Hoo!

I read the top few threads. Spindle pin removal 101, huh? Sure the emissions can come off! Get some nifty little brass cap nuts to plug up the exhaust mainfold. Do the same with some good looking hardware for the intake manifold. I like to use a sealer on the nuts to make sure everything is air tight. With the lack of air delivery now, the car will need a tune-up. You will have to tune the carbs.

Chris, Read what you are saying. The car runs better when you plug up the hole, but the tube was disconnected to make the car run better? Nonsense! Your car is running shitty because you have a leak from the unplugged hose. The emissions hardware can be removed. You have to keep the vacumn advance on the distributer and plug the rest of the holes with perminent plugs / bolts...etc. You will have to adjust the timing and the carbs.

Yes, the add is written horribly. Since when is a rebuilt engine and 125,000 miles considered low? Absolutely just like showroom condition? Absolutely! Meticulously maintained, but it needs maintenance? Pretty car. Too bad it has been crashed. And the DNF license plate has to be too funny! Did Not Finish?

I suspect many people are doing just that, Mike. Kind of a shame, but over the past year, I have seen a lot of stuff dry up. Scares the hell out of me, frankly. Looking at what it is going to cost me to restore 27.

I don't know what the guy is bitching about. I like mine plain, too.

Do a right-clik and "save target as" to down-load the .wmv file and play it through Explorer? Can't help you on the Mac, Ben. They are .wmv files. Great stuff Kats! Car washes have changed a bit from those days! I loved spinning donuts in the parking lot! Where was the scene with the mountain map? I was sixteen when this was going on.

Thanks for the kind remarks, Steve. I am still collecting information about the Z Restoration Program and will be writing more soon.

See you at Hooters, Vicky and Scott. Save the good stuff for me!

Thanks Alan, yes. Have you corresponded with him?

I am a little curious about this myself. Every one I have seen was on the back lip of the rear spoiler. HS30-H has one on his spoiler. I recall a thread some time ago about emblems on the rear deck and a scan was posted of the emblem page from a RHD parts catalog. but I can't find it. According to the gentleman who sold this emblem to me, it may have come from HS30-00026.

In Florida, it is quite common to see a drug-bust confiscated sports car or boat in police colors. The sight always brings a smile to my face. This thread has done the same and I want to thank everyone for a very interesting off-topic discussion and the photographs. Thanks for the smiles

Hi Kats! Jim and I agree. The bolt is on top. The nut is on the bottom. 26th has the clip attached to the valance panel. Here is a clip from the parts manual - page 75