Curtis240Z

Each Bob Sharp catalog has a different numbering system! Some only have descriptions (it was simplier back in the '70s). Out of the five BS catalogs I have the above information is the only other item that wasn't already found for you.

Well now that the flare nut is rounded all bets are off using conventional tools. Use a torch to break the joint loose enough to use regular vice grip pliers. Next time a nut starts to round use the Vise-Grip locking WRENCHES to preserve the hex (it is stronger than flare nut wrenches). Good luck and don't catch the car on fire.

Get a 10 mm flare nut wrench and http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100328 and your brake line work will be easy.

I have a few copies, but they are out of business.

Motorsport Auto in CA sells them http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PBC07

Can someone detail the differences please.

Looks like you may be starting this intake project from scratch. If so you might want to consider ITB fuel injection. Check my gallery for pictures, I came from triple Mikuni 44s and while they were great it is no where as nice as ITB FI.

You can adjust the ride with a turn of a small screwdriver with the Illuminas so you can have your comfortable ride home and a stiffer shock for SCCA events.

245s would need 8" wheels. I hope you have your plan laid out because that size would need coil-overs or flares.

I highly recommend them. They are adjustable too. Well worth the money and lifetime warranty to boot.

The bushing length are different between the front and rear on the lower control arm. Make sure you don't have them switched.

After reading the book you probably won't want to use stock fuel injection on a project like this.

Sounds like the carbs are not syncronized (balanced) among other possible problems.

Regarding harmonic balancers the removerable sheave was for the aftermarket A/C units which also included a longer bolt. The OEM harmonic balancer bolt is made for the stock 2 sheave pulley.

Another check for a failing slave is to pull back the rubber cover and if it is wet, then the slave is leaking and needs replacement. As far as the grinding, you can first bleed the system as you already did and then adjust the master cylinder rod. Using a pliers and a 12 mm open end wrench, hold the master cylinder rod with a pliers and break loose the 12 mm lock nut on the rod. Extend the rod movement by turning the rod with the pliers. Check the proper length by checking for grinding by shifting into reverse.

Does MSA still sell the battery powered clocks? I have a couple now that I put my air/fuel ratio meter in the clock housing.

You can also swap the alternator and water pump. The change to fuel injection will require all rubber hoses to be upgraded to FI hoses along with a different fuel pump. The 240Z tank is also not baffled for FI, but it will still work for street applications. I recently changed my 240Z to aftermarket TWM individual throttle body FI from triple Mikunis. The conversion was not cheap but the performance is WELL worth it. I will never go back to carbs.

and the hole on the early slave casting to hook the exterior spring.

One of the ways is to go to the Advanced tab and click on the "paper clip" to attach a photo.

You AFR during the blog is way too rich basically flooding the engine. Try and use a different emulsion tube because your gas/air jets look to be about the right ratio.

Ask 10 guys and you will get 10 different answers. These older engines were designed when the lightest oil weight was 10W, so I use 10W-30 Mobil 1 because it is synthenic which is generally superior to conventional oil.

Great deal for buyers like you that find the real problem! Go luck with the rest of it and have fun! Don't let the rust get out of hand.

Check the prices against MSA, somethings on ebay are more than buying them from retailers.

That is a very clean first year car. You might want to keep it stock because it is worth more than way, but probably not as much fun to drive as modifying it to fit your desires.

As long as the replacement strut goes in without restriction you can leave the rust. Since replacement struts are cartridges and not strut internals like the OEM units, the top nut does not keep water from entering the housing. So putting oil in the strut cavity would be a bad thing because water would settle on the bottom and rust would continue to grow. Koni recommends anti-freeze because it also dissapates heat and has anticorrosion properties which mixes with water.