Curtis240Z

I have them on my Z and they don't move.

The tooth washer helps bite into the cross member and the torquing of the bolt keeps it from rotating.

Take the old units with you when you align your Z in case the technician needs them because now you don't have any camber adjustment.

Yes these are front camber adjusting bushings. You don't have to lower your Z to use them.

I gut the thermostat and use only the restrictor plate with a thermostatic radiator fan on my 240Z. Although the NAPA units work well on both my daughter's and wife's 240Zs.

NAPA Auto Parts #70

Another possible option might be these wheels: http://www.sportmaxwheel.com/sportmax_002.shtml They are selling for $113.00 each. They have a zero offset and fit fine with a 255/50-15 tire.

I don't lift my jack too often either but just moving them into position is much easier too (90 lbs vs. 40 lbs). I have my old Costco jack too and it is my third backup. Costco also sells aluminum jacks too (albeit you know how their products come and go).

Consider an aluminum jack. I have a couple from Harbor freight and handling an aluminum jack is so much easier than the steel ones.

All the ones I bought from MSA fit nicely. The rubber gasket around the cover finishes the look nicely. The key is to be very careful where you place the securing points because due to the compound curves the brackets sometimes pull the cover in an undesireable direction.

Well I can't say aluminum radiators are stronger than copper/brass radiators, but I can say that the seems are welded instead of soldered like the copper/brass radiators so it is less likely to leak at the seams.

check the electrical connector at the throttle body

It comes with Eibach springs of which you need to specify what poundage you want.

and you could use any camber kit you want!

If you are looking at SCCA, B Street Prepared class then the MSA Racing Camber kit http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC09 is what is legal. I am using the kit and pleased with it. Some other people also make it too. In Street Prepared you cannot touch the center strut hole, thus the roadracing camber plate system such as the one sold at Arizona Z is not allowed.

There are rotary switches on the end of the unit. Settings are x 100 rpm.

Plus it has an adjustable rev limiter, good for times when your friend borrows your Z!

Mat M is correct the positive points about a light flywheel is the quicker acceleration because you have less weight, which equals more useable horsepower. The "downside" which is not really that bad is the engine will spin down quicker and clutch engagement needs to be more precise because you have less weight covering up your sloppy engagement.

It is a Crane multi-spark ignition system. It should be an improvement although since a 280Z already has electronic ignition I would think that the stock ignition would suffice.

I bought it locally for $375.00, so I'm sure you can get it cheaper since you are on the continent. BTW since you are changing the clutch you might want to consider a lighter flywheel. I am using a Fidanza 10.5 lbs flywheel.

I am using an ACT clutch NX1-HDSS and like the results.

I just realized you are laser printing your shirts instead of screen printing. Have you seen how many washings the shirts will handle before the laser printing shows wear?

Ahh...the lucky few.

Welcome to the club while the "other" Zs aren't as desireable, I wouldn't go as far as to call them crap. xtce just make sure this is the platform you want to stick with before pouring all your money into it.

In the front I also put the jack stands where the T/C rod meets the frame.