Ownallday

Hello, I am in a slight pickle right now. I just ordered and received an Air Condition kit from AutoACSolutions and plan on installing the kit soon as the heat is unbearable in my car. I am unable to find any Harmonic Balancers for sale that have an extra pulley groove for an AC belt! I checked everywhere online and even saw one on Autozone that I ordered and the ordered got cancelled as the manufacturer doesn't make it anymore. The other option I see is potentially mounting up an addon pulley to my current balancer, I currently have the Performance Harmonic Dampener from Motorsport Auto (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d02a/10-2139) Is there maybe a way to addon another groove pulley to this? I see two open holes that can make it possible to bolt something up. Any suggestions?

Thanks I'll check the torque on those rods next time I get it in the air, I'm pretty positive it might be my steering rack, even though I changed to polyethylene bushings, the fitment was kinda weird and I noticed on the passenger side even after swapping my inner and outer tie rods, there was a very very small amount of upwards and downward movement on the passenger side

Okay so I only took one picture (sorry I was on a tight schedule to put the inner rods on). I can confirm zcardepot has the left and right side inner rods. I originally installed the outer moogs with my bad inner rods and just swapped to the new zcardepot inner rods today and they are the proper stock threads. Installed with no problems and most of my shake is gone, I still have maybe 10% left so now I'm a little lost, Ill have to just replace parts or rebuild parts I never touched yet

Ok, thanks, I will be setting up similar to yours then, I went ahead and ordered another catch can to hopefully match my engine bay nicely. Thank you for all your input. When I had the breathers on you can actually see more blow by coming from the valve cover breather which I thought was odd. Hopefully the addition of a catch can helps reduce the amount of blow by though and fumes and overall no more burning engine bays!

Wow that is one amazing engine bay! Yeah I was really scared especially when I opened my hood and the fire engulfed up, I am shocked to see no damage though, looks like nothing was burnt either. 3 Ports? How to do you have it setup? To my knowledge the crankcase hose should connect to the input and the valve cover hose connects to the output? Do you have the 2 input blocked off? I am actually in the works of making my own heatshield for the webers to hopefully help keep fuel leaks off if I have any. Thanks for the response, I believe this is how most people are running it too. Are you connecting the crankcase to the input or the output?

I have a 280z with an L28 and triple webers, I recently went to the track and my car caught on fire, it looked like the fire was coming from my headers or from the middle weber and the fire started about 3 minutes after I spun out and was idling for about 2 minutes in the pits. For now I want to assume the fire started due to oil dripping onto my headers after spinning out and the fire probably seeped through the middle weber and ignited there too. (The car is okay I drove it home two hours away with no problem just 2 hours after, nothing looks damaged and the car drove like nothing happened) I have a K&N breather for both the valve cover and the crank case portion on the block (PCV). I would like to add that during the fire the K&N breather on the block blew off (exploded off). Gonna assume it got clogged and pressure wasn't able to be released or something of that nature. I want to ditch these breathers and run an Oil Catch Can system asap before my next track day as it seems for normal street driving I don't have to worry much. I would like to know the best way to run it. I've seen 4 setups: 1: Running one catch can with two ports (one port is an inlet and other is an outlet with a filter on top) and the valve cover and crank case both have hoses going to the two ports separately. 2: Running one catch can with two ports (one port is an inlet and other is an outlet) and both the valve cover and crank case hoses connect to a T or Y fitting and then run to the inlet on the catch can with a filter on the outlet portion of the catch can. 3: Running one catch can with one port and a filter on top and both the crank case and valve cover have hoses that connect to a T or Y fitting and run into the one port in the catch can 4: Running two separate catch cans with filters on top, one catch can for the valve cover and the other catch can for the crank case I would also like to add that I do have a small amount of blow by and does fume up the cabin slightly so whichever system would be best to help reduce this would be appreciated or whichever system is the best overall to run.

Actually my bad, I am getting Cusco for the front with the tri bar option from T3. and T3 Tri bar for the rear. Before my sway bars upgrade, the rear end of my car would wobble really bad coming out of a turn. I got ST sway bars and the problem went away. I am sure there is some flex going on that I just can't feel but it's nice to know strut bracing will make a decent difference.

Sweet, thank you for the input. And compression was fine, I did a test about 3 months ago I remember all cylinders were around 140-160 which I know is low for a Z but shouldn't be extremely bad imo. Sweet thanks, I'll be ordering one later today then. Personally I like my engine bay to be clean, but if it means avoiding a fire I'll do it. And I actually just ordered TTT bracing, I honestly don't know if my chassis has a lot of flex or not but I definitely have a good amount of body roll

No damage done, the k&n breather I had for the crank case blew off but that's about it, drove the car an hour home after the incident. I have breathers/filters on the valve cover and pcv, I'm pretty sure oil was coming out of them when I was doing hard cornering so I'll have to get an oil catch can. You can see what I mean in the picture. Question do you know if I can run one catch can for both of would two separate catch cans be better?

I believe I already bought them at zcardepot, they were $20 a piece. I installed the outer tie rods (Moog) just the other day and had the car aligned, happy to say about 70% of my shake is gone but there was still the obvious inner rod play, just waiting to get those delivered with the boots. Only installed the outer tie rods because I had a track day yesterday, aside from a fire starting on my headers or one of my webers, the car ripped and handling felt a lot better too. I'll update with pictures when I get the inners on

I wasn't either, but their website has an option for left and right so I'm just assuming unless they are lying. I'll post pictures when I get them, I already have the outer tie rods I'll be installing at work today to see how much that helps with the shaking Yes, tires are pretty much new only ~2k miles on them. The wheels are enkei from my friends Z, he experience no wheel shaking. I recently balanced my wheels and did an alignment all is good. On both sides you can tell the outer tie rods are bad, but on one side you can see the inner tie rod moving and hear a clicking/clunking kinda noise when checking for wheel play from that inner tie rod. Boots are shot on both sides. I believe my car was in a small accident in the past might've messed them up. I left a video of the inner tie rod play 20210722_181812.mp4

My friend actually just told me this yesterday, he said to just get two Right hand threaded moogs. Found out my inner tie rods are actually bad yesterday when I inspected them. Apparently zcardepot sells the left and right side so I went ahead and ordered that and Moog outer rods. Hopefully after this I have no more wheel shake. Thanks for your response

Thank you, my car only has 75k miles or so but the outer tie rods are shot for sure. I'll be replacing just the outer tie rods tomorrow and redo my alignment aswell at work after that. Nice, I actually just upgraded to 4 piston front, SS lines and all that a week ago. I should've replaced my bearings but they seemed okay so I just repacked them. Just need a bigger master for the brakes. Do you have a link because it only shows one inner tie rod for me and to my mind that would mean Right hand for the driver side

Thanks for the reply, was actually probably going to go with just the moogs however I noticed they only make replacement for the stock inner tie rods which aren't made anymore so now I am debating whether to just replace the outer tie rods only with moog or if I should tackle the inners while I am there. How likely are the inner tie rods to go bad on these cars? If I can save some money that would be good. What I figured but spending another $100 on tie rods doesn't sound too comforting especially if there isn't even a difference. However I was going to replace my inner tie rod also but now I'm not sure if it's necessary or worth it, moog only makes outer tie rods for the oem inners

So my Datsun 280z has a pretty bad shake at the steering wheel above 35mph, I've narrowed it down to the inner and outer tie rods as they are the only suspension components I have not changed yet plus my right outer tie rod has visible play. My car has polyurethane bushings all around and TTT suspension from lower control arms and what not. My question is, is there any noticeable steering feel difference between the Moog outer tie rod and the TTT outer tie rod? I know they use different bushings obviously, is that enough for a difference in feel or is the difference so minimal that its not worth the extra money? I do drive my car spiritedly in the Canyons and occasional track days.

I finally went ahead and got a MSD 6AL with a tach adapter. Not sure if I gained anymore power but the car is definitely a lot smoother especially in the higher rpm range and I noticed a lot less fumes.

I am more than positive both have been changed my friend just can't remember to what so I posted whatever my webers came with for now, the car definitely runs a little more on the rich side with how he tuned it

Okay, I can 100% confirm most likely the oil pressure sensor or gauge is bad. Perfect oil pressure readings from the mechanical gauge.at idle sitting right around 10 PSI at 900 rpms idling. Guess I will just live with it for now as I've already thrown too much money into the car over the last two years I've owned it. Sorry for a super late response as I been too busy to work on the car

I can confirm that before upgrading to the MSD, holding the throttle wide open and cranking for about 10 to 15 seconds would get the car to start. However I completely solved the issue by upgrading to an MSD Ignition 6AL. Now the car only takes about 2 to 3 seconds to start when hot which seems pretty normal for me with triple weber. A lot smother acceleration now at top end especially and also noticed less fumes in the car. Definitely a worthy upgrade. I'd appreciate hearing what you jet selection is. Here is my setup, this is what my friend who tuned them remembers off the top of his head so may not the 100% I believe the idle jet and Emulsion Tubes are different. Main Venturi - 30 Aux Venturi - 4.5 Main Jet - 120 Emulsion Tube - F11 Air Corr Jet - 200 Idle Jet - 45F9 Pump Jet - 50 Pump Exh - 50 Needle Valve - 1.75

Next time I get to driving the car I will leave the throttle open for 10 seconds flat and test the results of that again. If anything I think the fuel level is fine because the car starts right back up when cold without me even priming the the fuel pump. I will check however when I get to drive the car again. It's an L28 with a stock E88 head cam. I will do that once I get around to driving the car again. The bogging is no longer and issue, my friend popped in some bigger jets and retuned the webers and now the car runs near perfect in the lower rpms. If he remembers what size jets he put I will post back here

I haven't noticed any leaks but I would find it hard to believe it would be leaking after a couple of months. I have the two pin connector however one of the wires was for the ecu module which i never had so its only the one wire now going to the gauge. and no red control light or anything. Didn't know if something like this would work but worth a try, just ordered it I will test hopefully sometime this week when it gets delivered. I really don't want to move towards aftermarket because I like the look I currently have. Just ordered a gauge, I will post once I install and do some testing. My gauge reads below 0 at idle when the engine is hot so it almost seems as if the gauge isn't working until I start driving. At idle when the engine is hot, the gauge reads below 0 on the stock pressure gauge in the interior, basically like as if the gauge isn't working or the car is off, the moment I start driving the gauge instantly works its way back up above 10 psi. I have a mechanical gauge on the way, I will update the results once I get to testing. I believe I have the stock l28 oil pump. I never changed it and not sure if the previous owners ever changed it or upgraded.

So I've had my 280z for about two years now. I have always had low oil pressure for some odd reason when I idle and the car is warm. This issues continued after changing to a new oil pressure sensor, and continued even after installing a rebuilt e88 head and swapping to triple webers. If I start the car cold, oil pressure gauge usually sits about halfway or a tad above with the car idling about 1000rpms. With the engine hot and driving the oil usually goes up about 5 to 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. The weird thing about my issue is when the engine is warm the gauge drops below 0 psi at idle acting like the gauge isn't even working. I have yet to find a solution to this. Any ideas? Or is it nothing to worry about considering the car has been running like this for two years? I can physically see a stream of oil getting to my cam when I pop the valve cover cap so I know the head is getting oiled.

I have a custom heatshield in the works as we speak. I figured heat must have some part take with this issue. I have three friends with triples, none of them run a return line but they don't experience the heat soak issue I do. All three of them however have a heat shield and an msd ignition. This week I should be installing the custom heat shield and msd ignition. I have seen people run no heat shield or even wrapped headers and still run their cars fine without issues. I can mount a fuel pressure gauge. I will order one sometime this week. I have not checked the fuel level. I am still pretty new to webers so still learning the ins and outs. And its pretty much any rpm below 2500 but this issue was resolved after my friend put some new jets in and retuned the webers It starts after about 15 to 20 seconds of cranking sometimes. Other times no luck. Doesn't matter if my foot is fully to the floor or not, it struggles to start. I have not noticed fuel dripping but I did in the past when I first got my weber

Hey guys, back with another question. Recently switched over to Triple Webers back in December. Loving the setup so far, still in the process of tuning them as they don't like open throttle in lower rpms. I am currently having an issue with starting the car after driving for a couple minutes. The car starts up pretty good for three carbs when cold, usually starts right up on the second crank. However she will not start after driving for a while and hot. Example, I drove the car recently for about 20 minutes, pulled up to a gas station to fill up the tank which took approx 2 minutes to do, then I try an start my car right after and the car wont turn on, doesn't matter if I open the throttle a little or all the way open it just struggles to start. I had to sit and wait about 10 to 15 minutes to finally get the car to start again. Is the gas evaporating in the webers and I just need to prime a little longer to refill? I currently do not have a heatshield in between my webers and headers but my headers are wrapped. My first consideration is to make a heatshield for the webers and add heat reflective tape at the bottom of each weber also. Should this be enough or are there other things at play here?

Good to know. I will pickup F7 emulsion tubes before my tune