Ownallday

Thanks for the input! Seems like most people are running F7 Emulsion tube on 40s even my friends so I might have to get that. Are you running 40DCOE?

Wow that changed real quick, and here Top End states their baseline Jetting is about 80-90% there lol. Thanks for the input Thanks for your input. I'll look into both Main Jets as when it comes down to tuning I can have both sizes ready. Ill see if If its worth while to get the idle jet before the tune Yes it is a 40DCOE 151 all 3 of them are the same and brand new My friend helped me with the webers install and after installing I can confirm the first 3 from your list were already done and working perfectly as explained. 4 will come when I get them tuned. I won't be tuning them.

Hello everyone, I just completed building my 1978 Datsun 280z Motor with pretty much all new or rebuilt parts besides the block. I'll run down everything I have and have done. -Stock L28 N42 Block with dished pistons (not rebuilt or anything) -Rebuilt Late E88 Head, Ported, 1.2mm head gasket -Brand new Triple Weber 40 DCOE from TopEndPerformance with the Canon manifold -Brand new 3-2-1 headers from TopEndPerformance which I also wrapped with header wrap -280zx Dizzy "upgrade" with E12-80 box -Carter fuel pump -Also fully rebuilt 5 speed Transmission (Long gear ratios) -Planning on getting the MSD Ignition Soon I got the car running (extremely loud as its open headers atm) didn't have to adjust the Weber's really besides to get the idle down, drove the car and definitely have to ease into the gas, straight full throttle the car stumps for a second, could just be the car wasn't fully warmed up. My questions is if the Jets TopEndPerformance provided with the Weber's are perfect for my setup and what some of you guys think should be changed? I am very new to the Weber game and plan on learning how to tune these things properly in the future but for now I definitely would like some guidance before I get tuned. I will list below the Jets provided with these Webers Main Venturi - 30 Aux Venturi - 4.5 Main Jet - 115 Emulsion Tube - F11 Air Corr Jet - 200 Idle Jet - 45F9 Pump Jet - 40 Pump Exh - 50 Needle Valve - 1.75 I will keep this post updated as I get my webers tuned and change out the jets

Haha, not a bad idea. Ill most likely just save for the 6AL, I plan on doing it very soon anyways. I don't like finding posts without a solution so I will always post the solution on my threads. Thanks for the help, now to make a new thread if my jetting is proper for my Engine setup

Well it came down to the coil! Put the stock one back on, fired up the car and what do you know, tach now shows where my car is idling at! So my question is, if I want to stick with the MSD unit, could I just add a potometer or a resister to the blue Tach wire and get it to work like that? To my knowledge I was told to upgrade to MSD or something similar with the ZX dizzy and Triple weber setup. I plan on getting the MSD 6AL in the future so I know once I do that my tach will need to be hooked up completely different.

Okay that's what I figured, couldn't exactly remember. so I should remove the Black/White wire on the positive terminal since its not doing anything. Engine starts perfectly and runs perfectly despite having new untuned webers out of the box. Spark is extremely good too. The Tach does twitch when turning the key to the on position which it use to do with the stock setup. Okay I will test the old coil later and let you know if the results are the same or different. My car is open headers atm so im not trying to wizz off the neighbors with multiple constant starts haha. So the coil could be at fault here? I heard most people don't have problems using the MSD coil however but I am unsure

Oh okay, I see. I don't have any spare condensers then. Right side of the coil is negative with the blue wire connected for the tach and the black wiring going to the dizzy. On the left side of the coil the positive side has the white wire going to the dizzy and a black/white wire which was originally connected to the old coil going into the wiring harness. These are the only wires currently setup to the coil The two wires I am talking about that I have hanging were originally in this spot. They are going into the wiring harness.

Yes I have mine unplugged for the meantime. Made no difference with it plugged though. Tuesday I will test it all out. This is somewhat what I am leaning to also. I will test resistor on Tuesday once I get my voltmeter but my guess is the resistor is fine Is this the condenser you are talking about, it's the only one I have? Funny thing as its not connected to the coil at all. Something I just noticed is my two old positive and negative coil wires are just sitting hanging out of the wiring harness. Could this have anything to do with the Tach not working on low rpms as the guide doesn't exactly mention anything about using the old coil wires and not sure it makes a difference since I switched to Triples.

Okay, I will search for it so I can at least test when I get my voltmeter. At this point it seems most likely the E12-80 box like you said, Exactly, had my car for 2 years still don't know all the in's and outs. Okay, I will wait till Tuesday when I get my voltmeter to test it.

Where is the resistor located for the 78 280z Tach? I don't have my voltmeter to check at this time but would like to see if bypassing it does anything if possible

Okay so I traced out this TIU and found this Going to assume this is the TIU as it had six pins on it. I disconnected it, went for a drive and same results. I can confirm that with this box plugged in or unplugged my rpms only work above 2000rpms. Anything below that my Tach is dead. The blue wire is hooked up to the negative terminal on the MSD coil.

Ouch, here I was under the impression that I was upgrading since I know the ZX distributors are a popular upgrade to those swapping over to Triple Weber's like I just did. So basically I should swap back over to the stock 280z Distributor and pray my tach works or I can replace the ICM and hope I get one that isn't bad quality. I'll do some researching.

So replacing the Ignition module solves the problem? I can't see the issue being anything else since the tach was working perfect before this switch. I believe my issue is similar where my tach only works over a certain rpms.

This is why I am confused why mine stopped working. I did not mess with the TIU, as a matter of fact I had to look it up just to see what it was When installing the ZX dizzy I followed this exact guide. Only difference is the 1978 280z does not have a ballast resistor

Is the resistor somewhere along the passenger side? I can test it tomorrow but the tach was working perfectly before

Hello, I just recently ditched the Stock FI system on my 1978 Datsun 280z and went over to Triple Weber's, with it I also upgraded to the 280zx distributor with the E12-80 ignition and upgraded the coil to the MSD Blaster Coil 2. Car started up like a dream considering they are brand new Weber's and haven't been tuned. However my Tachometer stopped working properly. Either it doesn't work or it somewhat jumps around sporadically while driving. Am I missing something?

So thought I would update this post with the issue and fix for my problem (since I hate finding posts where the author doesn't include the fix). As all the members who posted before stated, the bearings were the issue. I will post some pictures of the transmission after I pulled it out, you can see the bearing in the casing is completely missing (shredded apart) most likely causing the shafts to not be balanced with 1st and 2nd gear. You can see the shaft isn't straight with the other one and bearing is completely missing New bearing in the housing while old bearing is right below it Here is the transmission put back together with all new bearings and synchro's with the rebuild kit that zcardepot provides. The shafts rotate smoothly now with the gears compared to when I removed the transmission. Needless to say, can't believe I drove the car for almost two years like this and even a day at autocross. I would baby 1st and 2nd gear trying to stay out of those gears during the years I drove the car so maybe that helped but however I am shocked I still have a transmission and no other damage was done. Thanks to everyone for the help. I can gladly pound through all gears now with confidence.

Did not know that. I was going towards MSD everything in terms of the ignition system however in general. My big question is how much of a power jump difference will there be between webers and efi itb setup and without a doubt the efi will probably be more reliable overall but by how much? My plan was either TEP or Datsun Spirits setup. TEP is nice because they are 20 minutes from my house so as long as they don't go out of business I think I should be good. And yeah I know it's a big jump, I figured better to just finish everything in the engine bay rather than work one by one constantly taking things off like I have been for the last two years.

Wanted some insight for my future build with the L28, I plan on getting another P79 Head (Previous owner practically screwed the studs for the exhaust manifold closest to the thermostat so I have produced a lovely leak overtime with the annoying clicking sound that sounds like valve slap) The head will be sent out to be rebuilt and built by topendperformance, I do not plan on building the block (I park the car on the street, don't have tools to pull the block) but I do have the N42 Block for reference I want to get the new head fully built as possible as I want to push the most power out of building it. Also will be getting new MSA 6-1 TBC coated headers (will header wrap them) I am sure my pacesetter headers are warped (They look beat up too and recommend to not add header wrap, I want less heat) MSD ignition system and Ignition upgrade, radiator upgrade, trans rebuild with a lighter flywheel And last but not least the part I am unsure the route I want to go. topendperformance sells both Triple Webers and Fuel Injection ITB systems (they even tune both systems and have a dyno) The Webers is a little above 2k for everything, while the ITB setup goes for around the 4k-5k mark. My question is how big is the difference between the two systems in terms of power and reliability? Is the almost 3k price difference really worth it? I have a friend who has many issues with his home built 2.9L 45 weber setup and another friend who has not had a single issue in over 6 years with his stock L28 40 weber setup (his webers were tuned by topendperformance also) Also how much power should I expect from this build? I really want to achieve 250hp at the crank

Interesting, I guess when it comes down to inspection I will inspect the synchros and see if they need replacing based on condition. The car shifts like a champ in all gears but reverse can be a little stubborn sometimes. I give those threads a look at. I will be doing the rebuild at my job at Toyota so I believe I will have all the tools needed, any specific special tools?

Good to have a second opinion, will the kit from zcardepot have the bearing cage, unsure as they don't state it. I will being doing the rebuild at my job, I work as a technician at toyota so I should have all the tools needed as I don't have the luxury of being able to do a job like this at home so work is my only option which limits me a little. I am fine with taking the risk on rebuilding without inspecting. I am very shocked my car still drives the way it does, hell I have even ripped it many times in the canyons. I will update this post or make a new post in the future when I get to that point

Thank you, had a feeling it was a bearing, do you know if the kit from zcardepot comes with this specific bearing? I am okay with doing a trans rebuild and testing my luck before purchasing a new 5 speed, mainly because I will not able to do the rebuild at home.

Okay so my 1978 280z has a 5 speed transmission (not sure what year), has always made noise in 1st and 2nd gear when not pressing on the throttle (kinda soundings a little like a grinding and maybe whining noise). When the clutch is pressed in, no noise, if I am on throttle, no noise. Only makes noise 1st and 2nd gear when coasting (no throttle applied) and you can kinda feel it not coasting smoothly but once again only in these two gears. Based on the symptoms and pictures I provided, are my bearings or synchros bad? Asking before I pull trans for rebuild with the rebuild kit from zcardepot or if I should just buy a new trans since I am unsure if a rebuild will solve this issue

Good to know, thank you! I will check this out I checked two pins but I might've checked the wrong ones is what I'm saying. Okay good to know so no harm changing the sensor then. It was only $20 anyways. I'll be attempting to smoke out for vacuum sunday. Yes I know, Datsun spirit makes a nice kit and sells two different engine management systems.

Yeah, I refered to the FSM (kinda) which is why I bought a new water temp sensor (I'm sure my car needs a new one anyways). Does a faulty temp sensor cause these to run rich only or can it cause the car to run lean too? The last thing I wanted to do was replace parts on this stock efi I would like to upgrade to ITBs by the end of the year. Im pretty sure I might've checked the two wrong pins however, now that I think about it the readings were off. I know my water pump isn't leaking (I check every month for leaks and loose bolts) and just checked right now it's as sturdy as can be, zero play. My harmonic balancer does need replacing though. Quick question, I have one exhaust manifold stud that snapped off towards cylinder 1, (getting this fixed next week) can this cause a vacuum leak and a noticeable decrease in power?