Ownallday

Thanks for the insight, sounds like you got lucky with fixing your wheel shake, sadly for me I had upgraded to a big brake kit, I had my wheel shaking before and after the brake upgrade. During my engine build process I may decide to throw in the ttt steering rack and look into possibly swapping steering columns.

Back when I first posted, that was one of the first things I did but there was no change to the shaking. Definitely wouldn't rule it out for other people though.

Sadly no, everything I wrote up in this post is what I've done to try an decrease the shake, for me it seems the struts may have made the biggest difference for me. I haven't had time to work on the car and dig into the problem but hoping that changes in a month or two after my engine build is done. The only possible things left that I can do is try different wheels, change the driveshaft, axles, replace the rear wheels bearings (not sure when they were last replaced), and possibly trying a different steering rack (technotoytuning rack looks nice) and possibly a new steering column as my steering wheel can be moved around very slightly with the vehicle not running, not sure if that is normal or not. If you find whatever solves your shake, please let me know.

I would start with trying different lug nuts and different wheels in your situation and see if you continue having any shake

Thanks, might seem like it may not work or even be worth trying to get it to work with the MSD. I already have the MSD box which is why I asked. Really? isn't the intake somewhat restrictive on airflow? I only know of one person who went ahead and ported his intake and he apparently got a faster 0-60 time. This was however on a 280zx NA. I am not sure if there are any major differences between the 78 280z intake compared to the zx intake. Honestly never knew they made an adjustable cam pulley. More than likely will snag it for the build, Thanks! I understand. I did a lot of research and couldn't find answers to most of these things I posted. I am actually trying to avoid breaking the law. So long as the car can pass emissions without removing any emission components, no laws to my knowledge are being broken which is my goal. I use to have a stock engine in my 75 before I swapped to webers but the engine was low on compression and consuming oil like no tomorrow for the time I drove it so I have some indication of stock, just not a stock rebuilt one. Also limited on space and my motor is already apart and would like to avoid having to take it apart again for another 10 years. I have a lightweight flywheel already but unsure on the gearing of my trans and diff.

Looks like a 123 distributor will be added to the list of things I can do then. You are right, being able to adjust the ignition curve at different RPMS could be useful. I may have to ask a smog tech if a distributor will fail any visual but to me seems like a distributor is not considered a smog component. Would the MSD 6AL Ignition system work with the 123 dizzy? I think one of the things I decided to add to my list of things I could have done too is porting the stock intake manifold. The AFM would have to be adjusted more than likely. Not sure what kind of power gains could be seen from that. Noted, does that have any drawback for smog? I could always just install the cam on 1 then increase to 2 or 3 after the move if necessary.

Thanks for the heads up. Planned on getting a pre test as I am actually unsure if the stock cat that was on the car originally is good or not so don't wanna take that risk. The move will probably be around 2 years so either before I right after I will have to go in for another test. Wish I could throw two catalytic converters on to increase my chances but I am sure that will fail visual instantly.

I've been getting too many mixed responses on that response but it seems to me that the case would make it harder to pass, question is how much added compression is too much? I am sure just a thinner head gasket should cause no harm. Starting to sound like it. Yea I believe its three test visual I am not worried about as all stock components will be in the car and anything that can be visually inspected I can hold off on. Just trying to avoid taking apart the motor again but a Cam is not that hard and can be done inside the engine bay. I believe I have a new AFM or rebuilt AFM so hopefully that gives me no problems as I always had AFM problems in the past on my last car. It seems to me I will have to do just a stock rebuild for now aside from the thinner head gasket and port and polish and just do the extra work when the time comes. At least it'll give me an opportunity to see how stock power really feels like and see if I can feel any improvements from there as I do all the mods in the future.

Would a bump in compression though make it easier to fail the sniffer test though? I didn't want to exactly bump compression up too much as I would like to run 87 octane still or max 91. I already have another Z that has a nicely build motor with triple webers and she pulls hard, I use it mostly for track driving, this new build is mostly for daily driving occasions and spirited mountain driving. Good to know, does Arizona have any smog laws? Does your Z pass with all the modifications you've done? I figured even a slightly bigger cam would hinder the low end a little but would pull in the higher end. By the sounds of how much had to be changed to the afm and advancing timing sounds like it may not pass here in California which is a bummer. Cam is easy and I suppose I can always upgrade after the move. Does the 123 have any advantage power wise or just the adjustment to timing and pin lockout?

Ah okay I see. Finding them is the big problem as they are usually never on sale new or used without having to go bigger which I dont want to do. My curiosity is would I be able to pass smog initially with such a huge compression bump?

Thanks for the insight and good to know. I may considering having the machine shop mill the head. But I would like to avoid having to put anything more than 91 octane which is the most we get in California. There is race gas where I live but $10 a gallon.... Naaa.

Already ahead of you, have a Fidanza Lightweight flywheel ready to be put on. Was the first thing I bought for the build as my other Z also has this flywheel and made a huge difference with my triple weber Z.

Yes, mods like headers, intake, egr delete I know will fail visual inspection. I am not worried about that now as I know to leave those on for when I get the car smogged. I will however decide to remove or swap them out in the future when the car will no longer require smog checks outside of California if any of them can benefit from any power increase. Things like the cam and fuel rail I am uncertain if those will pass smog as I'd like to do them while everything is torn apart already and the current stock fuel rail I have is surprisingly cracked and leaking. Bottom end is torn apart already, however I have brand dished pistons already and haven't been able to find standard size flattops. Would the insane amount of extra compression work with a stock 280z Fuel Injection system and computer and gain power though?

I am aware of that, I am asking for when the vehicle will be smog exempt out of California. Will an aftermarket fuel rail pass visual?

Hello, I am currently in the process of rebuilding my second L28 for a 280z. The goal is to have a fun street car that will be plenty fun in the canyons but also have adequate power for California roads and be reliable for long distance drives. The engine is pretty much going to be a stock N42 block rebuild and N47 head rebuild with the stock intake manifold and fuel injection system along with a lightweight flywheel and Electric fans to delete the clutch fan. I know power gain wise with the stock EFI is limited but I have a couple questions regarding if any of these modifications are worth it or will make any difference. 1: Will a thinner head gasket to help increase compression make any difference with stock EFI? I already have a 0.8mm gasket that was going to go on another engine but not anymore. 2: Is there any benefit to upgrading to a 280zx Distributor over the 280z unit. 3: Is there any benefit to using an MSD 6AL ignition system with the stock EFI or in combination with the 280zx Dizzy? 4: Does a header and intake make any power difference on the stock EFI? 5: Will an adjustable fuel pressure regulator add any beneficial power? 6: I know headers and intake wont pass but will an aftermarket fuel rail pass smog in California? 7: (I know won't pass smog) Does deleting the EGR really have any beneficial power gains? 8. Will the stage 1 or 2 cam on MSA's website give any decent power gains and work with the stock EFI and can you pass smog with either? 9: Is a Port and Polish worth it? 10: Are there any modifications I missed that could potentially increase power with the stock EFI and can they pass smog aside from shorter gear ration trans and diff and weight savings? The reason I ask the smog related questions is because I need the car to pass once or twice in California but eventually wont need to worry about that anymore if I end up moving but would still like to keep the stock EFI on this specific build in the future too. Thank you to all for the responses and help!

Appreciate the feedback!

Nevermind, just answered my own question after digging into it. I'll have to source another head that can accept fuel injection.

Was going with efi for smog reasons.

Hello, I have a 280z I'm putting together. It has a L28 with a rebuilt 260z E88 head, I'm in need of aquiring parts like the intake manifold etc to get it running again. My question is will I be able to pass smog with this head and all the proper smog equipment? I'm based in California.

No additional adapter was used, And I used my friends Snapon Gauge so it's not some cheapo one. I had the engine at operating temp, throttles open when cranking, and battery was on a tender while testing too. Not sure if I mentioned this but I am losing about a QT of oil every 1k miles. Exactly what I thought as I saw most people are getting in the 200s with a good motor. So I can confirm the head was port and polished as when I got the head that was the only thing the guy told me he knew was done to it and it was obvious as you can see the ports were nice and polished. I thought the 260z E88 had bigger valves but just had worse flow compared to say the N42? I also think the guy had the current cam just cleaned up and new valve seals. I have been told this too. The main reason I want to stick to the E88 is because it's what I have already and works as I don't want to spend so much money buying another head and having to get a machine shop to work on it. Interesting, I will keep that in mind but most likely will end up going with Stage 3 since that what was recommended and even my friend helping me build the engine said Stage 3.

Very weird so our cars are prone to change drastically depending on the tires. Might have to swap out my tires see what changes. Currently running Hankook RS4 225/45R15. I always questioned if the sidewall was too little for this car. Might have to try Toyo R888 225/50R15 next as most people I know with Z cars run that setup. Glad yours was a simple fix that was found way later haha. The wheels I have currently have lug holes that were apparently repaired. My friend ran them on his 240z before selling them to me and his car was perfectly fine and I also had another friend test fit my wheels on his Z and it was fine too. This was before I got my Hankook Tires.

I just saw on the forum I actually have the right part. Thank you. They are indeed felpros for a ford. I am far from doing the build, right now I am just gathering the parts needed for the build. Don't plan on pulling the motor till July when my friends schedule frees up so no rush.

Sweet, 7k is what I wanted to shoot for! Having the car die off before even hitting redline is dissatisfying. And sounds good. I have a set saved already. What valve seals do you recommend, is it the Fel-Pro #SS72686 or something else? And 100%. I will have to revive this forum and make a new one once the progress starts. Any other things that I should have done to the block that have not already been mentioned? Thanks for the info again! Okay so no balance necessary. Thats what my goal is to have a fun car that can be daily driven if needed but not get beaten by everything on the road haha. I do already have a 10lb flywheel also. The car revs nicely as is. Is it the same felpros mentioned in the forum or will anything else work nicely? I believe I saw Fel-Pro #SS72686 for the part number. Thanks for the info!

MMM, a lot of people told me they think my tires are bad but I actually drive the car pretty often so it's not sitting too long. I'll do some more testing as the weeks go by and replace the rest of the things that I have yet to in order to see what fixes it. Whats weird is hearing all these problems of rust in the floors causing shaking but when I had a hole in my floor board and frame rail I had zero shake from the steering wheel. I will 100% update what else fixes the shake on this post to help any future people who have similar problems but part of me believes the rest of the shake is potentially my driveshaft and axles even though the entire car doesn't have vibration. Gad you found your issue haha.

I've been wanting to throw my wheels out of the question for a long time but I don't have any friends with wheels that would fit my car. I currently have gold Enkei wheels which you cannot find anywhere anymore and I really love how they look on my car so I didn't want to buy new wheels unless I know they are the problem. I finally have a friend who is getting some new rota wheels and a tire setup that would fit my car in about a month. Going to try his wheels see if that changes anything. I had a friend that had mags, should've got them off him as a spare set would've looked pretty sweet with my color. I have not change the rack itself, the only thing I touched were the inner and outer tie rods rack wise and poly bushings. I want to suspect the possibility of the steering shaft U joint being bad but there are not any replacement joints aside from one that needs to be welded by the looks of it.. My driver side floor was actually rusted really bad a couple years ago, I had a new floor and rail added to the cars driver side. I might have to double check the torque on my tension rods as I have the Technotoytuning Tension rods. I also know that my Driveshaft has a bit of play but from what I see the 78 280z driveshaft u joints cannot be replaced so need to save up a little more money and purchase a new driveshaft and see what that does.