SpeedRoo

Fantastic work @lapriser well done on taking the initiative to do this. One feature would be to write a script/algorithm to decipher the part numbers, Nissan used a code that determines the bolt type, coating, thickness, length etc. If you automatically did that for each part number it would be a great help to sourcing now obsolete parts. Here's some examples: Part code

Appliance did them in 14 x 6 and 14 x 7 sizes. It should be stamped on the inside what they are. I'm in Oregon and have a set of four I don't need. They have tires on them that would have to be removed and they would need shipping to MO.

Too much pitting in that to be useable. Just buy new cylinders rather than wasting time chasing leaks.

The pitting in the cylinder is what needs to be cleaned up and honed so the seal can work properly. Still looks useable. The cylinder is the later type so readily available new if you want to replace.

I hope you are not in a hurry as I don't have a lot of bandwidth to do this at the moment. Again not really commercially viable. Just saw these on JDM parts! https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/spark-plug-wire-set-dated-1977-genuine-nissan-nos-22450-n3626

Perfect, just what I need to reproduce the correct markings. The key parts of the spark plug wires are the boots that go on either end. Fortunately I have found a NOS source for them and made up 3 sets for myself.

@hiyabrad I'm not sure what the correct screen printing would be for a 11/69 240Z. Unless you have an original I have no way of knowing what is right for your car. Were the 1969 spark plug wires blank with no screen printing? Roo

@hiyabrad I didn't go ahead with reproducing the spark plug leads as it was not commercially viable. Also got busy with other projects so just did 3 sets for myself. Roo

@Warty most times they just need a good flush with brake cleaner. The rear proportioning valve is difficult to disassemble so just blow it out with air pressure then flush it with brake cleaner. Then put brake fluid in and seal with some caps until you reinstall it. The check valve comes apart pretty easily, again clean, flush and refill with brake fluid.

@Warty False economy not to replace all the rubber seals and hoses after sitting for 10 years. Pulling the front calipers and replacing seals only takes an hour, do it now while the system is drained of brake fluid. Also rebuild the master with new seals. Never trust what a PO has done, just assume it needs to be redone.

@Warty I would clean everything off with a degreaser and pressure washer to see what is still useable. The rear brake cylinders can be rebuilt, the seals usually need replacing. Change out all the rubber brake lines. Remove and strip the brake master cylinder and replace the seals. Rebuild the front brake calipers with new seals. I'd then blow out the brake lines with an air hose then flush them with brake cleaner before starting to reassemble. You may want to check the brake proportioning valve in the rear and flush that out as well, same for the brake failure valve in the engine bay. I have just done all this on one of my cars and the brakes work great.

Using Evaporust in the Ultrasonic cleaner heated to 60C is even more effective and quicker. To remove plating an acidic solution or one with Lye in it strips the plating. Purple Power works really well for this. https://www.purplepowerinc.com/ It also strips off old paint followed up by a wire wheel to remove any rust or paint. Lemon juice diluted is great for cleaning aluminum parts.

It seems the 1969 build cars didn't get the date code on the calipers, great to see some originals on your car.

Here's the finished article. Fully rebuilt with new old stock (NOS) Nissan parts including bushings, bearing and rubber boots. All nuts and bolts replated in yellow zinc and the track rods are original parts fully overhauled with correct paint markings. The blue tape on rack in original position. Original ball joints stripped, plated and rebuilt. Two sets for my cars and another set sent to a fellow member from the forum in Arizona. The original rubber boots are held in place with rubber "O" rings just like they used when originally built.

Lovely work on 42! Couple of questions, did the brake calipers on the early 1969 build cars have date stamps or were they blank...I know the 1970 builds had a "0" stamped on them. Was it intentional to use uerthane suspension bushings rather than original Nissan ones, is there an advantage to using non original bushings?