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bjs zed

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About bjs zed

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 33135

  • Rank: RooZkie

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  • Joined: 07/19/2018

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    Ontario, Canada

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RooZkie (2/14)

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  1. I phoned the coolant manufacturer and deionized water was recommended and used.
  2. The biggest issue for me was corrosion. Before Evans, I ran Valvoline maxlife coolant on a fresh rebuild and I could not believe the hard white build up on my brand new water necks about a month later. Not sure what that was ?
  3. If i was running traditional coolant again, I would give this stuff a try RMI-25 Protects Your Engine (rmi25.com) Lots of good long term reviews on line.
  4. I run Evans. I run it for the corrosion issue's. Lots of info on-line with people strongly on both sides. I march to the beat of my own drum, so I am not afraid to dive in and find out for myself. The following are some things I have experienced. - You shouldn't run a copper/brass rad with multiple small rows. The evans coolant is thicker and really needs a rad with larger tubes. I now run an aluminum two row with larger tubes. It was overheating on a brand new brass/copper 3 row and the swap to aluminum fixed that. Long story short, you need a better rad than stock. Evan's will explain that on their site. - Does not boil in the cylinder head, possibly reducing hot spot's and improving detonation resistance. - You will notice very little building up of pressure in the system so it's easier on the hoses. - No water in it so no electrolysis causing corrosion.
  5. I enjoyed reading your "story" of how it all happened. My new copper rad ate a seagull last year at 100 mph. That was sad and messy, he went in right under where the front grill ends. I believe some aluminum rad cores are glued into the tanks, not sure though, maybe the same stuff ?
  6. My vote goes with incorrect firing order if wires were recently removed.
  7. I deleted this line and found the engine temperature got too hot until the thermostat finally opened. It ran fine after that but from fully cold I had the same issue every time until I cut the jiggle pin off the thermostat. This allowed some coolant flow past the thermostat so it could sense the temperature gradually as it warmed. Just my experience. The jiggle pin doesn't really allow any coolant flow past as the pressure in the block pushes it closed while running. Try it with the line capped off and if you notice any issues, clip the pin off and try that.
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