JMT240KGTR

Michael that is absolutely 100% spot on!!! Mate that is excellent, my Aussie idea was realised by my NZ friend; gotta love this global neighbourhood we live in! Seriously that is really, really good, I'm very impressed. Exactly the look I'm after, thanks heaps. Fellas, Michael is the man! If I can't get Watanabes then this look will do that's for sure... Once again thanks a heap. James

Good stuff Lachlan! Tell me, where did you get the flares from? This dude in Melbourne is pretty tough to negotiate with, and he has the original Nissan Moulds for them, which I what I originally had my old ones made from. James

Thanks for the feedback fellas. Michael (kyteler) don't know what computer program you have that enables you to do that magic, but well done. Any chance of finishing that wheel off with some clear coat??!! :classic: I'm a little undecided what route to take with my almost sprayed 240K/C110 coupe. It's a gold colour and I'm not so sure the complete all alloy wheel is the look I'm after. If anything I'm probably leaning towards painting the centres, kytelers pic didn't look too bad. If anyone else has more pics/feedback would be much appreciated. James

Fellas, Anyone out there painted the centres only on these type of wheels. I'm contemplating getting mine done in a gun metal grey while retaining the alloy/chrome look on the 'lip' of the wheels. I think this might look quite good Any experiences/feedback appreciated, thanks guys.

Lachlan, A little late this response I know but when I fitted wheels to my C110 GTR replica they were Series 2 280ZX rims, 14 x 6 with 225 tyres all round. This combo didn't look too bad, although another inch or so outwards (deeper dish) with 245-255? tyres would have done the trick perfectly. If you want I can measure the offset on these rims, and from there all you'd need to do is add on an inch or so and you'd have the right size. I recall measuring distance between tyre and flares when fitted and it was a little over an inch&1/2. On a personal note I prefer the wider tyres fitted to rims, adds to the deep dish effect. Let me know if you'd like some info, I've also been able to trace who's got hold of the original GTR flare moulds now. James

E88 stamping off R30

Gav, I'm pretty sure the earlier cast E88 off the Z series had the letters E88 stamped larger than what you'd find on later E88 heads off the R30 Skylines. I think there may be a difference in combustion chamber size or valves. Check the attached pics, this E88 is off R30 Skyline and stamped smaller than the Z series; this head has 42mm inlet valves and is 41cc standard. I shaved this .030" and fit onto my dished N42 block, got around 9.5 C/R now. Unless you're after a track motor the 42 vs 44 valves aren't a problem. You may find the earlier Z series E88 is larger displacement head, I believe around the 44cc mark. Just some food for thought, cheers....

The N42 head you're looking for is usually off Z series of cars, although I'm not sure whether the U.S market had other cars with L series 6's in them; if so, these cars may also be fitted with this head. To narrow down your search even further these heads would be found 99% of the time on an L28, don't believe they were released on 2.4/2.6L motors. To identify the casting (N42) look on the spark plug side of the head, underneath/between no.1-2 plugs and you'll see a cast number, if it says N42, there you go! James

I guess milling the block to "true up" warpage is justified, but yeah as I said, as a compression raising exercise I'd prefer shaving the head. There's a fellow here in Oz who used to work for the Datsun racing team and he's been boring out L24-L28 .120" (3mm) for years; if it can be done with an L28 to fit 89mm 200SX pistons with a stroker combo, why not an L24 to 86mm? Personally we have done and have friends who have bored out L series 6's .120"+ and they've never had problems; all depends on the application I guess. As for a guide to milling the head and compression gains, this all depends on the initial chamber volume, Nissan heads had an assortment of chamber designs, very similar but size wise can differ considerably; take the readily available N42 off an L28-chamber size 44cc's and compare that to the P90, comes in at around 52cc+ or thereabouts. Then you have the early version heads with smaller chambers 38-41cc's but downside is smaller valves-can be remedied by having larger valves and seats installed. If you want to stick with the L24 set up then I would do this:- get yourself an N42 head (comes with the large 44mm inlet valves, and is cheap, easy to find), mill/shave it a maximum!!!! of .030"- .040" (any more than this is not recommended unless you want to fit cam tower shims etc etc), bore the block .120", use L24 rods and crank, flat top pistons, new rings, bearings etc, cam, carbs and so on. The above should produce a C/R of 10-10.5:1, nice and healthy! Opinions vary on the boring capacity of the L series but if the former Datsun Team mechanic has done it over and over as his daily business, then it's got to be pretty damn close to being O.K. James