mdbrandy

Finally found the hand-throttle I had been looking for. Not only got the part, but it is a brand-new, in the bag Nissan choke/ hand throttle assembly with all cables and knobs! Yeah!

Yup. It looks like that.

Ah, now that I know what to call it, I can search! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6191&highlight=Rally+Clock

Odd clock on e-bay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2438530708&category=40017 Seller states :I believe this clock was equipped only for 240ZG or Z432 Anybody seen this before?

The cowl cover on mine has two rectangular pieces of white foam underneath. Don't know if I'll replace them or not once I refinish the panel and POR-15 that underside...

I agree with LanceM. How does the outside of your rocker panel look? How about the wheelwell? That rust indicates that there might be some ugly cancer inside the rocker. Look for posts on this site about "Rocker Rust". There have been some spirited discussions with a lot of pictures in the last couple months on the cancer that happens just under the rust you're showing.

Excellent! Mine weren't on the car when I bought it (I found them in a box of junk the PO gave me), so this is the first time I've actually seen one installed!

1) I'm not sure what instrument finishing panel you're talking about, so I can't help there. 2) The center heater control panel is held in by those four screws, but also by the radio knobs, and the heater contol cables. There are four cables that run from the mechanism attached to the heater control panel (the three levers that slide sideways), and attach to two levers on the right side of the heater box, and two levers on the left side of the heater box. You have to remove the cable attachment to all four of these before the center panel will come out. Make sure you label which wires go where. Routing of the choke cable through them when you put it back together can be important too. 3) yup.

The site says he's exceeded his bandwidth allocation. Looks like posting an interesting site on this forum is a good way to get it a lot of hits!

MSA lists them but they are NLA. Even Chloe at Midwest Z has been unable to come up with one for me. I'd suggest being careful!

When I repainted the '71 240Z that I had as a teenager (a "few" years ago :classic: ), I painted it blue with two white stripes that came together at the tip of the hood bulge, and followed the bulge back over the top of the car and down to the edge of the hatch. Had about a 1/4 inch separation between the stripes. Looked great! I wouldn't do that to my current Z, and at my current age , but it was cool back then.

Note that the last item listed is still available new through amazon or barnes and noble. I got one just a couple months ago. Something like $17.99 new, I think.

I got mine for $25 on e-bay only because the owner put it there with a "buy-it-now" for $25, and I saw it just a few minutes after he posted it. Right place at the right time...

Carl's right. I just grabbed a copy of #1 on e-bay for $25, but I've seen it go for much higher there. On the used section of amazon, it sells for over $100! Hard to believe. Haven't seen the second one over the past few months that I've been looking. Mark

What year? If you can get early ones, pm me. The seat belts differ quite a bit over the years. The buckles go from lever release to button release, and go from non-retractable to retractable. I'm looking for the earliest ones I can get.

I had exactly the same trouble, except I couldn't even get anyone to give me a high estimate - they all said no. Thus my purchase of a Lincoln MIG welder, Finch's welding book, and a bunch of scrap metal to practice on. All you need is time....and the inclination to gain the skill. Note that when I gave up, I had a couple leads to small, one-man shops that might be interested, but I didn't follow them up. Ask around at some places that DONT do the type of work you want (like a good mechanic you know or such), to see if they will give you any leads to independents. Riskier, but it may be your only chance if you don't want to learn to do it yourself.

I had a '75 280Z back in the early 80's that had similar problems. Worked fine most of the time, but then intermittantly wouldn't start, etc. Finally, it quit altogether. 10 days and $600 later (mostly labor for someone to track down the trouble), found out it was an intermittant short circuit in the dash wiring harness behind the glove box, where the @#$%#@$% PO had hacked up the wiring. Somehow finally blew the airflow meter and fuel injection relay. At least that's what I remember...

Great stuff from the video, Kats, and I absolutely LOVE that Blue car Alan. I had a '71 240Z in my younger days that was yellow, but being young and reckless, I painted it a blue that was very similar to that car. Kats, if there is ANY way to capture that video to any sort of a computer video file, we'd love to be able to see it....

That first press photo looked strange to me, and I finally figured out why - that car has no badging of any kind! Any idea why?

It's only called the Bush recession by people that don't know any better... That ought to stir up the brush a bit :devious: :devious: .

OK, question needing opinions: I bought a heater box with a "new" core and valve on e-bay. Advertised, and confirmed before bidding that the core and valve were installed on a project car, but never used (one more project car that never made it to the street). Supposedly, it sat for several years with the cooling system filled, but was never run, so the core was filled with coolant, but never heated or pressurized. Now, see the picture attached. Opinions on whether the corrosion seen on the straight nipple, and the deposits in the curved one could have come from sitting idle and filled with coolant for several years? Note that the valve looks very good. Clean, smooth operation, etc. The outside of the heater core is very clean. If I decided to use this, and if it really has never been pressurized, should it be "good as new", or could significant internal corrosion occur just sitting there? I really don't want to have to pull the core a few years down the road because I made a mistake here! All opinions welcome! Thanks.

Wow! Good thing you werent' under it! :dead: Where were you supporting it?

Rats. Thanks for the correction Carl. I should have looked at my picture library first instead of relying on the old, failing memory :stupid: . The attached picture is not very good, but shows the long pigtail from my car with the fuse box in the lower left corner.

I've never directly compared the two boxes themselves, but I know that the earlier ones are "short pigtail" and the later ones the "long pigtail". This refers the the harness that comes out of the box and attaches to the dash wiring harness. The one for the early boxes is only a couple inches, and for the later boxes, I think it's more like a foot.

In case it is helpful, here is the splash pan picture from the CD version of my '70 factory manual. It is pretty bad, but may be helpful...