mdbrandy

I don't have many pics of that area before I took the bumper off, but here's a pic from my 11/69 car that should do you. See the circled area at the very top.

Do you live on the board Carl ?!? I thought I was fast enough to get mine in!

It's my understanding the the horsepower and torque curves peak well before 7000 rpm on a stock engine too, so there isn't much point in going higher.

Woah. There's a diss for the 350Z. At least the guy liked the 240Z :classic: .

Yup. I got some a couple months ago from her. They'll be really nice when it's time to put things back together. Now if there were just new straps to be had....

Is there really a module on the distributor on a '75? On my '78, the actual ignition module is on the passenger kickpanel in the footwell. I thought that the ignition module didn't actually get attached to the distributor until the 280ZX, with that E12-80 module that is so coveted. Another thought is the magnetic pickup inside the distributor. I was having trouble getting a '78 280Z parts car started (before I decided it was a parts car), and found that the pickup itself inside the distributor was bad. If memory serves, the wires were frayed and corroded as they left the pickup body, which was not obvious until I removed it to look at it. Good luck...

The Haynes manual is British. Overseas, some 240Z's had 5 speeds, but in the US, I believe all we got were 4 speeds up until the 280Z, and the 5 speed was a option for it. Assuming you have one of the later 280Z type of 5 speeds, replacing the bushings on the shifter is very easy. Three plastic pieces and less than $15. You can get them from one of our sponsors - www.midwestz.com.

Hadn't thought about screw jacks - I've seen them but don't have any. Sounds convenient. I've got six 6 ton jack stands right now. You're right that there's not much weight left, but the front end still needs to be supported so it wouldn't sag, and it sounds like you are. Thanks. I might look for some screw jacks. :classic:

With all that front frame cut away, how are you supporting the chassis so that when you weld new metal in it will be straight? Just wondering, since I have some similar work to do....

Ed, how would you go about adjusting the T/C rod position? Only way I could see would be to shim at the rod pocket, although I'm not quite clear how to do that either. Stack of washers on the rod before you slide on the bushing cups or something? Edit: Although in this case, the rod would have to go the other way. Wouldn't you have to remove the inner busing or something to move it backwards without bending the T/C pocket? Confused...

The position of the center of the tire is located in space by three things: The strut, the control arm, and the T/C rod. I can't see how the tire could be forward of where it should be without the T/C rod attachment on the frame being bent forward or something like that. The T/C rod is the cylindrical steel rod that runs from the outside end of the control arm back to a "pocket" on the frame in front of the firewall. Of course, the frame itself could be bent too. Not sure of what else could cause that kind of geometry change...

Also, you only need 5 qt oil for the engine, including the filter, and unless the transmission has been changed out (very possible with these cars), it is most likely a 4 speed.

Tomohawk has a whole list of ZZ Top near the bottom of page 2.

Now THAT sounds promising. I had forgotten that I had downloaded that FI manual that 2manyZ's referenced. Just looked at it, and the thermotime would certainly seem to cause exactly this problem. I'll try to test it tomorrow. It's been idling high too, so I guess it's time to read that manual more thoroughly. The air regulator appears to be a possible problem for that... Thanks!

Interestingly, I have exactly the same problem. Mine's a '78. Wasn't a problem while the temperature never got above 25 or 30 degrees F, but now that temps are getting up to 50+, it has become a problem. After the car is fully up to temp, if I stop it and let it sit for 5 or ten minutes, it starts hard and runs like a tank. If I give it a bit of gas pedal for a minute or two after starting, it smooths out and runs fine. It starts cold fine, and runs fine after that initial hot stumbling start. I'm not sure if this is a symptom of another problem - I know I need to replace my fan clutch. While driving, temp is fine, but if I idle for 10 minutes or something like that, the temp starts climbing. Fan doesn't lock at high temp, so I know that's a problem. So, I have been thinking about it, and wondering if it is vapor lock from heat soaking after I stop, or maybe the temperature sensors at the front of the engine are getting hotter than they should (namely, the FI temp sensor and not the guage one) after shutdown since there wasn't sufficient fan cooling. That one seems a little off the wall, I guess. I have wondered about a couple of 280ZX engines I looked at while I was looking for my Z in September. They had some kind of a fan/blower that seemed to take air from the sparkplug side of the engine and blow it on the injectors. Seems to me that would indicate a heat soak type of problem. Does anyone know if this is a known problem?

Bambikiller is right - here's a pic of my 11/69 car as I was stripping it down.

As long as you have the drivetrain and tires to get it to the road!

Several of the other google'd web sites I was looking at defined BHP as being measured with a friction brake - thus a known force applied to the brake with a known coefficient of friction should be able to measure the energy it takes to stall the engine. Don't know the details of it though.

After a little googling, I found the following at http://www.corridor-o.com/html/kids/html/horses.html:

My 11/69 car has no defroster in the glass. 26th-Z has indicated that the defroster-less rear hatch glass is fairly rare, and that most early cars have the vertical defroster glass. FWIW.

Horsepower and KW are both just units of power, and mean the same thing. Power is a measure of energy per unit time - a kilowatt is 1000 Joules per second. A joule is a measure of energy. I'm not sure what the english units are that go into making up a horsepower, but it's the same idea, some unit of energy per some unit of time. I think the main question for an engine is, where is that energy per unit time available - there are losses through the transmission and differential, so that there is less energy available at the rear wheels than there is at the flywheel.

I don't know the lengths, but all of those hoses are high-pressure fuel line, and you can't just use normal fuel line. Maybe return to the tank is lower pressure, but all the supply and injector lines are high pressure. Somewhat more expensive...

E31 has square exhaust ports, and the N47 has round ones. The square ones are supposedly better. Couldn't tell you why, though. Probably flow.

Back in about 1978, I took a '71 240Z with an automatic, and dropped a 4 speed into it. I'm 99% sure I didn't have to replace the driveshaft. That 1% is just because it's been a LONG time! I remember that I forgot to get the flywheel from the junkyard and had to go back, but was amazed that the pedel brackets and clutch master cylinder hole in the fire wall were already there in the car. I should have changed out the distributor too, so I wouldn't have had to deal with the dual points, but I didn't... So, sorry it isn't a definite, but it's REALLY close to one!

Yes, I think we've established that the generic "OIL" cap was on the early cars. I remember kats translated one of the elephant oil caps for us on another thread, but I can't find it right now.