mdbrandy

Well, now, I knew that, but I had to ask! Anybody that has some that AREN'T on their cars? :classic: Right....

Can I have them :devious: :classic: ?

The badging that I took off #215 has the white Z. That, of course means nothing as to what it might have originally had, but the badges were metal.

I saw that picture, and I don't believe that it is correct. I believe that the plastic grommet actually clips into the pedal bracket. then, the metal cylinder that covers the end of the cable is clamped into that bracket, and there should be a bolt pulling the clamp together. I had posted the attached picture long ago in another thread, but you can still see the plastic grommet in my pedal bracket. The metal "ball" on the end of the cable then pulls against the plastic grommet attached to the pedal bracket. When you release the hand throttle, the cable slides through the plastic gromment, and the metal ball hangs loose. You can then press on the accelerator and the plastic gromment (attached to the pedal) slides along the cable without pulling it.

I think Chris (26th-Z) has done some research on sources for the Jute...

Seems to me that if you have the factory mounts, you should use them. You'll need appropriate bushings and the steel plates that close off those brackets. I see the metal plates on e-bay now and again. Probably other sources too.

Yup, I was reading in "How to Modify Your Datsun OHC engine..." last night that these gear reduction starters started on the late '78 280's, and apparently went through the 280ZX series. So they ought to be fairly easy to get?

I believe this is what the guys have been talking about: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=23-4171&Category_Code=PSDC07A The bushing is off-center, and thus as you turn it, it moves the control arm attachment point around a little. Note: I've never used one.

The later 1978 280Z has a 'gear reduction' starter. Is that classified as high-torque?

I can't answer your questions, but I do know that quoting percentages like this is just a way to inflate or deflate changes depending on what you're trying to prove. I remember someone arguing some years ago that around a recently constructed nuclear reactor, still births had increased by 66% the following year! What they didn't tell you was that the actual numbers went from 3 to 5. Of course, the year after that, there were none! Lies, damned lies, and statistics. I think that's somebody's saying...

I give unknowledgeable sellers extra info when I see it too. I saw a speedometer there the other day that the guy didn't know what year it was from. Well, since it started at 20 mph, it was obviously from an early 240Z, so I told him that and he added the info to his add, as a "somebody told me" comment. The crazy thing went for over $50! Somebody must have wanted an early speedo.

Mine's clear too, and no defroster switch in the console. Don't have a spare for a 240 though .

1) there is no way to tell from the videos that all of those houses are unoccupied. Many look like they are done, or close to it. He had info that we didn't have. 2) Yes, we probably did stupid things when we were young. That doesn't make them less stupid. 3) I wouldn't have wanted to be the guy with the camera either.

That was pretty much my reaction. Since my middle kid was run over by a car when he was 5 right out in front of our house, after sledding out into the street, that kind of driving in a neighborhood doesn't do much for me. The car that got him wasn't even going fast. He's fine now, but the broken leg and chopper ride to Johns Hopkins wasn't much fun for any of us. Find an empty parking lot or something. :dead:

In the city, with my '78 and my foot generally well into the "carburator" (throttle-body :classic: ), I get 15-17 mpg. If I drive more sedately, it is closer to 19. And I think the beast needs to be tuned up a bit. I haven't done any real highway miles with it.

I used a putty knife and then acetone to clean up the residue.

Depends on where you are, too. Looks like you're in CA, so you'll have better luck then those of use back in the rust belt. Previous posters are right, though. Rust will determine the price. In CA, a run of the mill, daily driver 280Z with little or no rust should probably be $2-$3K. FWIW.

Is that the F54 block that I hear about from some of the power-makers? Or is that something different :cross-eye ?

Well, that's true, but I was just trying to make the point that without the L24 or L26 marking, you wouldn't be able to tell them apart because the bore was the same. The L28 bore makes it at least distinguishable from the other two. And I've never actualy had a 260Z, so I'm only assuming it says L26 on the block . Of course, of you bored out the L24 block, then it would be the same as the L28, right? Except I gather that isn't a good idea...I assume due to internal wall thicknesses and webbing being different.

Should be an L24 - 2400cc. If you look at the right side of the block at the top back, there should be two flat places, one with a four digit number, and one that says L24. If it says something other than L24, it could be L26 or L28, which would mean a block from a 260Z or 280Z, at 2600cc or 2800cc. These values are all rounded up slightly. Oh, and I think the L24 and L26 blocks are the same, and the extra displacement achieved through a change in the stroke - right engine experts?

There are several switches/sensors on the thermostat housing of fuel injected cars (75-78 280Z's). The temp switch and thermotime switch signal the fuel injection computer for various things and tell it what the engine temperature is so that the computer knows how to control the FI. Do you want to know exactly what the temp switch does, or just this info in general? I could look it up in my '78 manual if you need to know exactly what it does.

MSA sells those same floor pans and frame rails as their premium brand. Since you're in CA, you might want to see if it's cheaper to go through them, since the stuff from Zedd Findings comes from Canada, and has customs fees, etc. Charlie is a good guy to work with directly, though. He'll get the $$ either way, though . Mark

Is this the area that you're looking for?

144 in cat bowling. 3 strikes in a row!

About half the gas stations here in Central Illinois sell "gasohol", which is up to 10% ethanol. It works fine, but you don't want to use it in an old fuel system, since the different solvent (ethanol) will dissolve the old varnish in your system and plug your filters. As long as you use it from the start (new car), no problem.