Dave WM

if you have a cali car, which I think you do, then the water temp switch turns of until the water is warm. You should not have a vacuum at the EGR when the engine is cold, you can just un plug the vacuum line from the EGR valve. BUT I doubt a malfunctioning water temp switch controlling the EGR would cause this much issue, unless the EGR is hooked to the wrong vacuum port, It should only get what they refer to as "ported" vacuum. The other problem is if the valve it self is stuck open. You need to remove it clean it, and test it for function by applying vacuum to it and seeing if it works as it should per the FSM.

finger over brake port on intake does it suck.

and you can feel a suction at the port on the intake then? if that is the case something is just not adding up.

I mean really, you could just hold your finger over the power brake port, if you have a vacuum you will feel it. Question do your brakes feel like they have power assist? That's another place you can lose vacuum (brake booster). I had a brake booster give out on me, it would leak every time I applied the brakes. engine would die.

if you have no vacuum with with the engine running you are going to have to start listening for an air leak, if its not the EGR anyway (doubt you could hear that). some other leaks missing o rings on injectors, stuck open PCV with massive hole in PCV hose, split vacuum lines. Bottom line is if no vacuum you need to find the leak. Some folks use smoke, plug up the TB inlet, break out a stogie and puff into the brake master vacuum port, look for smoke,

hard to imagine that you have zero vacuum at the manifold but its starting to look that way. Did you ever look into the EGR valve to make sure it was closing?

the 75 looks like a 2+2

any way you go about it, its always tough, like ZH said a little lube goes a long way, I think part of the problem is getting correct sized fuel injector hose. But yea taking the entire thing off is easy getting it all back on, not so much. One thing to watch for is fuel leaks, anytime you mess with it just make real sure there are no leaks. I generally will pop the hood every time I take it for a drive at the end of the day and while idling do a quick visual inspection.

again you want the stiffest nylon you can find, and will prob end up with a diameter that is just a bit more than the stock. I will dig around and see if I have any left (I know I do but where is it is another matter all together).

the tip of the cord fits in by heating the antenna up enough to shove in a new nylon cord, same with the retainer part on the reel. Keep the nylon cord as a guide to know how long you need the weed whacker line.

BTDT. its not too hard a fix if its just the broken nylon cord. You need to get some heavy duty weed whacker smooth round .15 IIRC. the size is tough since the stock stuff is between the diameter that you can buy, I ended up going just a bit larger as the bit smaller keep failing after repeated use. It does not break but will fold over on itself. You need to make the clutch just enough to do the job but not so much that it wants to fold the nylon wire once its fully extended. Bottom line is the nylon for weed whacker seems a bit too soft, but finding the right stuff long enough is hard. I tried buying a few OTS power antenna repair kits, they had the right cord but were too short, the Datsun has a LONG antenna. FYI the ohm reading sounds odd, 1ohm between the hot leads does not sound right. Try it again and this time reverse the polarity of the meter. I would think it should be closer to the sum of the two hot to ground or 40 ohms. I assume you got it running and was able to reverse so the matter is moot, but I just don't like mystery.

you can ohm it out. find the ground for sure it will have the same resistance between either of the hot leads, the two hot leads will show the greatest resistance between them. Hopefully the nylon cord is intact. Hot to Hot hightest resistance reading Hot to ground lowest other Hot to ground lowest and matches 1st Hot to ground.

yep too bad RFB dropped out of it, think he said he was starting a new job, have not seen anything from him in a long time. Never did see if he got the Datsun back together after the engine rebuild.

pictures (on moving pictures/video) is worth a 1000 words.

this is an example of how the fuel pressure regulator should work.

wow, that is bummer, poor QC and packaging.

not on this video, but I just now hooked up the rail with injectors, and a pressure gauge. static psi about 39-40, applied 17inHg vacuum to FPR, takes it down to about 31 psi. I did not try firing (manually) the injectors, will wait for daylight to do that.

I was messing around with one of those tools, you need to stuff the cylinder with rope to hold the valve up. FYI I tried compressed air and it keep breaking the seal when I tried to depress the spring. I tried rapping on the top of the valve to jar it loose, but no joy. There is a good video out on you tube of a guy using the tool and the rope trick.

I don't know why but my search could not find my orig thread. Anyway I was getting nervous about the status of the 280z dash by vintage dashes, was considering asking for a refund, but talked to Hung (he was ok with refunding) today and will stay in line for one of their 280z dashes. I was only thinking of refund since it was taking so long, and I have no history of dealing with vintage dashes before, but after talking to Hung it sounds like they are close. I am glad they are not rushing out a sub par product so its ok for the delay. I just think it would make everyone a bit more comfortable with a monthly update. I know its a brand new product and as such it can be a problem with knowing about scheduling of delivery. As promised I will keep the group posted on progress.

one more thing, don't be surprised if the engine running number is not 30 after the new FPR, is may only drop few psi from the engine off pressure (around 36-38). I say this since I suspect you may have vacuum leaks to correct, possible idle bypass screw miss adjustment, maybe even a hung up dash pot on the throttle return. You will just have to work the issues one at a time, but the operational FPR is 1st. insufficient vacuum will resullt in higher readings on the FPR while at idle. With that carbon build up on the plugs I suspect the EGR and maybe the PCV valve will need to be looked into as well, a leaking EGR is just like a vacuum leak. You are going to want to get that vacuum gauge and have it ready. You can test the pcv just by seeing if you can hear is rattle when shaking it. The EGR needs to be cleaned if all carbon'd up and test for function when the vacuum is applied to the port that controls the opening and closing.

sidewalk surfing fun stuff.

good luck! hope this fixes it.

Just make sure you have the right configuration, I think the link I attached is correct. I am not 100% sure its correct as it uses a superceded part number. The PN in the carpartsmanual site is 22670-N4200 before you go this route make sure you know what you are getting. Or just go the cheaper route, it will most likely be fine as well. I just like to get OE if I can.

I found this https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-regulator-press~22670-n4200.html

looks ok. If you can you may want to look up the OE part number and just google that just to see what comes back.