Dave WM

Going to get some more 2*8s and cut them into 2 ft long that way I can creep the ramps up (2 inch at a time)with the car on them, jack up the middle and slip in on the front and back of the jack. once I get it as high as I dare I will use the 4*4's to fill in the middle of the ramps. Played with it some more tonight. Have some large (12 ton) floor jacks, they will extend much higher without becoming unstable (wide base) so those will be used (I was using the 3 ton but they were maxed out a the TC bush plate). I am sure I can get that sucker up there. I will prob pop for the trans jack from HF, I tried balancing my 5 speed on the floor jack, doable but again that's not under the car. Got the scissor jack all ready to go under engine, thanks for the tip ZH.

I have been putting this off, but may as well start while its cool outside. 1st order of business is to get a system in place to safely support the car. I have some metal ramps, so I rolled up on the front then jacked the rear and put those in place (to low to roll up) next I cut up some 6x6 into 2 ft lengths, those will go UNDER the ramps just in case the metal ramps fail. I also have some large jack stands that will go on the flat part of the TC bushing mounts and a floor jack at the crossmember. the idea is to have some of the weight carried by the wheels and suspension, and some carried by the floor jacks. Several contact points all spread about. 5 in total the 2 on the tires, 2 on the jack stands, and 1 on the front member. I also will be getting some 2*6 cut into 2ft lengths, these will go on the front and back of the metal stands (floor jack the center of the stand and then slip them in on the front and back, then lower back and pull all the 6*6's back). This should allow me to lift even higher and still use the wheels as a major part of the system. I am using a similar system on the back (5 points of contact). after I get the entire shebang setup I will shoot a short video of it. The goal is to be safe and have plenty of room for an old guy like me to contort under. Once that is done the next thing will be to see about removing the exhaust manifold down pipe and the cat converter so I can get the heat shield out of the way and get better access to the drive shaft.

Will pull the console out, its not that big a deal, thx for the input all. I the video I watched the guy had a lift and a proper trans jack, prob made it look easier than it would be for me lying on my back with only a few inches to spare.

Just watched a video on a 280zx. Seem like with the drive shaft out of the way and the trans back and down a little bit he was able to get at it.

75 280z

If I drop the transmission while the car is on jack stands, will I be able to get to the shift pin to pull it or should I go ahead and take out the console and remove from the top? It almost looks like I can get to it with the trans still in. I was thinking there would be enough play in the boot to pull the trans back a bit, then while on the jack drop it down a bit giving access to the shift lever retaining pin. Just wondering how other have done this when pulling the trans while leaving the engine installed.

thank just want to make sure before ordering. I was wondering why replace the pressure plate? If I like the feel of if is there a reason? I notice some PP have more but thinner fingers. I assume compared to less and thick may have some effect on the feel of the clutch?

EXEDY 06009 seem right for 1975 280z

well getting a bit more and more oily back there, I kept hoping it was not the main seal but looks like it is. I stuck a thin plastic stick in the hole on the bottom of the bell housing for the trans. came back very oily so oil is getting on the back of the engine on the other side of the plate that bolts between the eng and the trans. I figure it can only get there one way, the rear seal. I hope to get to this in the coming weeks but figure I will need a clutch alignment tool and maybe a clutch too. so, can someone give me the Exedy part number that will work with my base coupe 280z? ebay is kinda all over the place on this. I assume Nissan does not make them anymore if I wanted to go OE anyway.

its been behaving so guess I will just have to live with it for now. I bought a spare ign module to go with my spare fuel pump and 2 spare ECU's

looking forward to it. I am in the same boat.

you can get them rebuilt, about 100$ IIRC. Or you could just rob a 78 hard line from the cond to the drier and use a easy to get type with the flares both on the top OR you could make up your own hard line, does not seem that hard, OR you could prob just re bend your existing hard line to it works with the top fitting. Seems silly to spend mega bucks to find the correct one. I did find one by asking for a local Ice cold auto air. Think it was 75$ you could tell they did not like selling parts, can't really blame them. I suspect other AC shops can still get from wholesale only warehouses.

Maybe a test drive with the camera rolling will give a better idea of what you are describing. agree with others should be smooth pickup anything over 2k but will not happen quickly until you get over 3k for the power band to get lively. If its back firing or mis firing you have an issue.

pretty quick you can hear it clicking jumps from about 45 to about 55 with the return clamped off, this is when I was thinking there was something wrong with the pump. It all happens in seconds but since it would happen sometimes (cold eng) and not others (just warm enough to not activate) it would behave different so I thought I had an intermittent issue. It could be as mentioned before by another poster, maybe I am actually flooding the engine with the warmer thermotime. I figured if that was the case I would have seen lots of black smoke (did not notice any). I think for the next few days I will see how the car starts with the thermotime unplugged, weather forecast has low 80's for a while. to answer your question, yes disconnect the starter solenoid and use the "start" pos to activate the pump was also firing the CSV. So if you want to use this method best to unplug it. The random clicking under the hood was confusing me.

Love the E-types. Dad almost got one back in the early 70's he passed on that for a new 260 2+2 (was warned about reliability issues with the Jag). Also past on a 68 Shelby ( few years old and I bet a good price). The salesman took dad out for a spin, literally spinning the cars smoking the tires etc... Thanks guy, no way dad was going to bring that home to a couple of teens...

thanks man I needed that. show it who is boss...

hmm more thought re the odd behavior, I noted above, the lack of full pressure may have been the CSV after all, prior poster brought this up. That would explain a lot. the pressure starts out low while the CSV is firing, the internal heater turns it off, I hear a bunch of clicking then suddenly the pressure comes up after the CSV shuts off (all this is during the test cycle of the pump starter solenoid off). So the massive leak was indeed the CSV. I thought I had clamped it off, maybe missed something. Sorry about all the red herrings.

ok there is def junk in the lines... But I don't think that is the real issue. I think the pump may not be getting full voltage, perhaps a 2.0v drop is normal but I did notice some odd clicking sounds like the relay was not really working right, and it would sound different, sometimes more than one click, some times one solid click and then good pressure. I am starting to wonder if there is an issue with the electrical supply to the pump. I have 12.2 volt at the battery (while in the start pos starter solenoid disconnected) and about 10v at the pump. Also odd is the voltage rises the longer the key is turned, I would have thought it would be the other way if at all as the pressure builds. The click I am hearing related to the "start" is under the hood, sounds like forward of the voltage regulator. Again it sometimes is a single click then other times several clicks. On to the FSM Duh it was the cold start valve I was hearing. It was prob cycling off from the internal heater. I am just going to replace the filters and be done with it before I break something. I guess a 2 v drop is not excessive considering the wire/connections/relays.

9;20 am 70f started right up, pressures all look normal. boy this will drive you crazy... Back to the plan, disconnect fuel line at inlet of fuel filter, run pump see if any junk comes out reverse filter flow flush with same line, see what comes out of filter replace clear pre filter (I can see some junk, not a lot). replace main filter. One reason I am not focusing on the FPR is when the pressure was acting up, clamping the return did not change anything. Also when I had the rail off for injector testing there was NO leakage from the injectors OR the vacuum line that goes to the FPR.

I did check the CSV as you described early on, I also clamped the line off to it on this latest go round where the pressure would suddenly drop to see if that was a source of the loss of pressure (was not still dropped to zero in less than a min). I went ahead and ordered a new filter and will replace the pre filter between the pump and tank just to eliminate that as a possible issue. The thing that really gets me was when it was not pumping up to full pressure quickly was the same time it would drop off quickly. That would have to be a massive leak to account for if the pump was working as it should. I will go start in in a few min and see what happens, I suspect it will be fine again since last nite the pressure started working normally again.

another thought, maybe I should disconnect the fuel line at the inlet to the main fuel filter and flush it. That way if a piece of crap is in the fuel line maybe its just floating back and forth in between the pump and the filter? May as well replace the filter while I am at it I suppose. Think before I do that (its a year old with maybe 1000 miles on it) I not only flush the line but back flush the filter, just to see what comes out I can both at the same time just disconnect the fuel filter, rev the direction at the hose and run the pump dumping what comes out of the filter into a jar to look at.

OK its gotta be something at the pump/check valve... went out for my nightly cruise, does not start unless I floor the pedal then all is ok. this is the same issue I had to start this thread. I get out the pressure gauge, sure enough pressure drops of instantly AND was slow to come up. Did not notice that the 1st go around. Clamp off the return line same thing slow at 1st then drops off as soon as I release the key from start (starter disconnected). At 1st it would only go to about 45 psi, then I jumped to about 55 psi after a few extra seconds of START switch. After it went high on time now its holding pressure (return line still clamped). I release return line and it drops to 35psi (pump still off). There is sits and I presume will begin with the slow drop off. This sure can make you nuts. It has to be the check valve in the pump right? Its a new pump but maybe NOS as I don't know how long it was in a Nissan warehouse before I got it. The other thing that bothered me was the jump from 45-55 all of a sudden like. I know the pumps employ an internal bypass that seems the only thing that could account for it UNLESS I have a voltage drop at the pump terminals. I think I will get a meter out on it and have my assistant check the voltage while cranking, esp if I can get it to mess up again.

OK its gotta be something at the pump/check valve... went out for my nightly cruise, does not start unless I floor the pedal then all is ok. this is the same issue I had to start this thread. I get out the pressure gauge, sure enough pressure drops of instantly AND was slow to come up. Did not notice that the 1st go around. Clamp off the return line same thing slow at 1st then drops off as soon as I release the key from start (starter disconnected). At 1st it would only go to about 45 psi, then I jumped to about 55 psi after a few extra seconds of START switch. After it went high on time now its holding pressure (return line still clamped). I release return line and it drops to 35psi (pump still off). There is sits and I presume will begin with the slow drop off. This sure can make you nuts. It has to be the check valve in the pump right? Its a new pump but maybe NOS as I don't know how long it was in a Nissan warehouse before I got it. The other thing that bothered me was the jump from 45-55 all of a sudden like. I know the pumps employ an internal bypass that seems the only thing that could account for it UNLESS I have a voltage drop at the pump terminals. I think I will get a meter out on it and have my assistant check the voltage while cranking, esp if I can get it to mess up again.

I got tired of checking it after 3 hrs so for fun I wanted to see how much fuel it takes to bleed down to 0. starter off, key on , 36 psi, key off 36psi. push purge valve on gauge, at most 1 teaspoon of gas comes out to go to zero. I can see how even the smallest leak in the check valve/FPR/injectors could account for a fast drop in pressure. So starting with a completely Zero pressure I reattach the fuel line, no gauge, go to start, nearly instant (just a fraction of a second), its going. I just don't get it. yesterday it was a bioch, now its fine. Maybe all the test were leaking into the intake manifold thru the injectors giving it a good rich mixture. IDK. lets just see how it goes for the next few days.

10 psi 12:15 10 psi 1:25