Dave WM

this is what I did, best to use analog meter, I setup a simple voltage divider using some 9v batteries. Hopes its just a ground wire, but if you are still getting no where after checking that, you could get all 3 out on the bench and do a test like this.

I got the tip off, I presume that is the key to extracting the snake (pull the entire top section out thru the bottom). I have not removed the unit from the car just wanted to see if I could get the tip off. Its def broken since I can move the antenna top part up and down by hand. If that's the case I assume a monofilament must be anchored into that top section "somehow"? I have only seen pics so not sure what I will find when I get to it. Thing is am getting a new muffler "BOSAL 280-520" to replace the OE muffler that has a hole in it now. So I will prob have to decide which to start 1st.

I would think it has too, did you try testing the AFM to see if the resistance varies with movement? compare all three if they do the same thing its likely they are all ok.

try another AFM if that does nothing I think the FSM calls for a new ECU once everything else has checked out.

OE fuel injectors? TPS?

Makes the bump bump bump going up but no down action (motor runs but no movement on antenna). Can push down while manually while operating switch. I presume a break in the plastic line? if so is this something fixable?

fuel pressure? CSV checked and work right?

MHz 4.194304 Real-time clocks, divides to 1 Hz signal (222×1 Hz). Also found in the original Game Boy hmmm maybe

Really don't know much about its make, but I would guess its not something hard to find. A freq counter will tell. Could also try a scope and freq gen to see where it want to resonate. Interesting puzzle. I don't have much exp with Xtls beyond what I used in the color tv repairs so can not say if that 4194.5 is a freq or a part number or what. A HAM may know.

cheap o camera pretty sure its low res. I am not good with modern tech stuff. and yes internet speed is a joke I pay for 60mps or what ever I get 7mps per the speed test.

I guess the real question is the freq of the xtl, could use a freq counter and get a ball park figure see if its near a standard clock freq. a schematic would give all the answers.

Xtl short hand for Crystal

ugh quartz, I see an IC in there too. Yea I got mine working in part 3 of the video, keeps great time too! anyway if the Q style is not working and you replaced the one cap, just a guess, the Xtl is bad, that is assuming the coil and mech parts are ok. Zclocks I am sure is all over this, I only have exp with the one type in the video, but I do know that Xtl's can go bad. I have worked on old color TV sets that need a Xtl to run an internal osc at a very precise freq to demodulate the color signal in color broadcast. Uses a reference signal on the back of the horz sync pulse to set up the phase and then uses phase modulation (comparing the phase of the signal during the scan to the ref phase that is maintained by the internal osc), really neat stuff since the engineers figured out a way to get a color signal what works with old B&W sets (reverse compatible) back then that was important considering how many tvs were fielded and not cheap like todays stuff. Anyway back to the Xtl, on the color sets it would become unreliable and not hold the freq, the result was a vert rainbow pattern in the picture rather than a nice color picture. I think it could have to do with how the set was stored, most likely a humidity factor, that would mess up the quartz. IC's are silicon based potted and VERY reliable so that pretty much means it has to be the Xtl.

yes and yes. My only suggestion is you do NOT unsolder from the bottom of the pcb, rather just clip the old out from the top, and pig tail the new to the stubs of the old cap. the reason being the coil wires that attach to the bottom of the pcb are VERY thin, as in HAIR thin, you run the very real risk of breaking something. The correct thing to do would be to use an ESR meter on the cap to confirm its status, but I would bet its the issue. there is a smaller cap 1uf that I do not think is the problem, but any electrolytic cap that is 40 years old is way past normal service life. It would be good if you had some PCB solder experience and a proper solder iron (NOT GUN) to do this kind of work.

if its a 280z with the transistor oscillator and coil to energize the balance wheel, then its prob the coupling cap, a small 5uf IIRC that most likely has dried up losing the ability drive the coil.

I see you are in my neck of the woods, if you get down my way (Orlando) let me know, can talk about Z's go for a ride in my 280. My handle is "Dave WM"

make sure you get a new vacuum line for the FPR to the intake manifold

disconnect the fuel return line, see if anything is coming out. Get a close up of how you have the FPR hooked up. use a free hose for the return line, JIC the tank lines on the return are plugged up. You have to get that part working before messing with the EFI, assuming the pressure gauge is right, even if the EFI was working perfect the mixture would be way too rich, prob not run. oops ZH beat me to the punch on the return line.

will give them a try, but if its that price range I can learn to love my slotted mags

use the resistance setting rather than the continuity setting. The EFI works very well once sorted out, main issue is corrosion on connectors (clean and deoxit), hardened rubber covers (allow moisture and corrosion to start) replace them. corrosion on various ground to chassis and fuse links. Then the sensors, mainly the temp sensor (not the temp gauge but the EFI sensor). Lastly get the fuel system healthy. It takes some time to work the issues, but once done it works great. The AFM is often the go to thing to start messing with, it really should be the last thing to be messed with if at all. there are some youtube videos out there that you may find helpful in AFM checkout.

I was thinking of a earlier style 74-76 a 5 spoke look to them.

I have slotted mags on my 75 but would like to look into getting some steel rims and OE 75 hubcaps. I see hubcaps all the time on ebay but not sure about how to get rims. I would prefer brand new since I don't want to worry about bent or other damage. Is there anything special I need to look for as far as size and fitment for the caps? I tried searching, while I am sure its out there I was unable to find anything specific. Going for standard size tires.

like that idea of a water pump shoot out, target different RPMs to simulate idle, and 2-3k and then a 5k to see if the design lends itself to different performance at varied RPM.

maybe an over heating problem. do you have issues with long idles before it heats up? are you using ethanol free gas? Oops, seem like this is hijacking the OP thread.

I know its been covered but may as well document my journey. I am thinking its warped rotors, you can hear the pads rubbing at the "high" spot when up on jacks. I got the dial indicator on it to confirm. about .004-.005 (pass side was .004 driver side was .005) total run out. The plan is to pull the rotors and get them turned, there looks to be plenty of meat left on them. I suppose I could get some duralast or some other made in China (prob all from the same factory) brand of new ones, but I am suspect of quality control. Of course I could bolt them on and see if the run out is gone. I did a check of the hub the rotor bolts to (not in the video), after cleaning some of the rust off so could get a decent reading. about .0005 (1/2 of the division on the dial indicator) so I assume the rotors are turning true. What gets me is the FSM says max of .004, ok I am just over that, and I get a noticeable wheel shake when braking. I would think the FSM would be more conservative on its max speck IF that is the cause of the shake. I have replaced the ball joints, TC bushing. sway bar busings, and serviced the struts (new o rings and oil, no bounce test past easy). I can't see any noticeable play in the inner or outer tie rod ends. I tested this by grabbing the wheel at 3 and 9 and shaking there is a tiny bit of play, but I think that maybe in the rack bushings (replaced with OE) no vert play at all (wheel bearings correctly lubed and preloaded). Again nothing other than the maxed out spec on the rotor. anyway here is the start: