Dave WM

me too

The thing about the shifter is he said it did not have the problem before the rebuild with all the same shifter stuff, other wise I would think this a likely problem. Worth checking regardless, my test for if it feels loose fore and aft once in gear is a good way to tell when enough has been ground off.

I feel the pain of pulling them, but there is a learning curve, I can pull and replace in about 5 hrs now, 1st time took a whole weekend. When you get into it again you will find a lot of help here.

well armed with the following, it did not pop out before the rebuild to fix the grinding and now it does, you really only have three options: take it back to the guy and say its has a new problem that began after the rebuild and get him to fix it. take to someone else explain the new problem get them to fix it. learn to fix it yourself (my preferred option). for 3 you need some good jack stands and floor jacks and hand tools maybe a press. This is based on your statements re the shifter is not the problem.

look at the tail shaft of the trans near the output. there are either 1 or two mounting points for hanging the exhaust on.

Not rocket science, if the hubs were not chewed up then it should lock in nice a tight as long as you are getting the full engagement. If it was going into and out of 5th with no pop out issue before the rebuild to fix the synchro, with the existing shifter, and now it jumps out of gear, with the same shifter, then it pretty much has to be something in the rebuild. Please describe the exact nature of the orig prob, I presume it would grind or crunch when shifting up or down? another test, with the engine off can you easily shift from 5th to Reverse? (I think yours does NOT have the lockout mech). Where I am going is another user had issues with 5th that were traced to incorrectly installed shift dogs (or whatever we ended up calling them) on the gear hub. An easy mistake due to a poor illustration in the FSM.

check to make sure its fully getting into 5th per the previous post. engine off shift into each gear, feel how the shifter is, should be some for aft looseness once in gear, now shift into 5th does it feel the same or does it feel solid with no play? You want the shift rods to be fully locked into the ball detents, if the shift throw is hindered to the point where the shift rod does not go into the detent, then the gear will not be locked in. The solid feel is from the shift rod hitting a stopping point while the shift detent is still trying to pull the rod to its endpoint. The ideal setup would be to have the correct shifter as well. I think they are different pivot points and lengths. Is the shift lever the one that came with the transmission?

rear main/pan/rear side seals. Clean it up real well with some brake cleaner, get it dry as a bone, then drive a bit. If you see oil ONLY around the rear of the pan gasket and if you see oil dripping down out of the trans weep hole, then its prob the rear main and or side seals.

looks like a good deal!

more pix!!

test results, no video, too messy with gas everywhere. the test 3/8 hose hooked to a funnel about 2 ft above a catch basin enough fuel to fill the small funnel (about 2/3 cup). time to empty no filter 2 seconds Fram 3 seconds filter per my attachment (designated hi flow before the pump filter) about 2.5 seconds. I also did a blow thru test (just what it sounds like), the fram was noticeably more restrictive to air than the designated hi flow filter, which essentially was no restriction noticed. So for now out with the fram in with the cheapo hi flow until a better hi flow (100 micron) is obtained. only real down side is the hi flow filter is not clear like the fram.

karate chop!

it was pretty easy to do, socket to tap it out with, then freeze the bush and heat up the housing. be extra careful on the line up as you noted. If you have a press prob the way to go for more control. I would not bother unless you noticed slop with the drive shaft. After all the seal does on the leak control, so long as the drive shaft is not flopping around.

fyi, I checked, my old one had two holes (ovals actually) where as the omega machine had one. IIRC, one of the hole lines up with the oil supply channel, the other hole was just blocked off by the housing. I of course made sure the single hole on the replacement bush was lined up with the channel. I guess the grooves in the bush are supposed to transport the oil to the rest of the bushing.

that's prob the best bet. On mine the OE fly was in good shape, I just scuffed it up with some sandpaper. I did not see any signs of chatter or scoring. I tried to get a new 225mm flywheel but did not have one at the local autoparts place. Make sure you pressure plate fits (bolt pattern) before you get under the car and find out its not right.

this is the one https://sales.omegamachine.com/Nissan_FS5W71C_Extension_Housing_Bushing_p/71411.htm

yep that pin was tricky, did what ZH said, use the reverse lockout opening to access. Hard to say if its worth it to remove the brass bush. I did try to find the long one. there is ONE suppler that had it, I cant recall. It was a bit pricy like 20 plus 9 more for delivery to the east coast. You also have to be careful to line up the opening in it with the oil channel. If the input shaft of the drive shaft feels good (no slop) I would think its fine. Don't worry about that reverse gear idler, you will not notice it in use. If you look at the spacing of the brass rings and how much gap there is left when pushed up tight on the cone, you can get a ruff idea on the condition. The right way to do it would of be to disassemble it and look for wear (should have visable grooves and the brass should firmly grasp the cone). But prob the best thing to do would be fix the leaks, replace the front counter shaft and call it done. IF you assemble it and have some issues then pull it for a complete rebuild. I know it sounds logical to rebuild before installing but my bet is if the gears look good and only a little metal was found tin the magnet then its likely going to be fine. One word of caution on replacing the front counter shaft bearing. Use the heat the bear and go for a drop on fit, you will Ideally you can support the back side of the counter shaft and use a press to push on the inner race to seat it. If you resort to banging in on with a hammer (like village land shows IIRC) just be prepared to tap the counter shaft back forward. You will know its right by observing the gear mesh. The counter shaft moves pretty easy in the main bearing on the adapter plate. even light tapping will move it around. I think this is why the shims are so important on the front of the counter shaft bearing (don't lose that by the way, it tends to stick to the inside of the input shaft housing). I presume the CS wants to push forward due to the cut of the gears, the shim limits this forward movement to locate precisely the gears.

That is what I was thinking, and the reason I specified the RPM. Not really sure why a cranking vacuum is something you would want to know unless for some reason you had a no start and did not have access to a compression tester. I just did it for a data point. I suspect my backup AFM (the one that gave the better idle vacuum) would give even better vacuum readings, since I had to decrease the bypass air on the throttle body to reduce the idle back to 800 rpm with it installed. The warm engine is key as well, I did not realize how much it effected the vacuum readings. I was getting about 155-160 compression readings with a cold engine. Now I wonder what the effect of a warmed engine would be.

nope did not check that good point, anything is possible since disco died.

I was at an autozone looking for a replacement flywheel (in case my 225) back when I was working on mine. all they had was the 240mm sized flywheel (based on bolt holes for the pressure plate). Funny thing is the BOX and all the computer stuff said it was for the 225 clutch, but I had the 225 pressure plate right in front of me and it clearly was not. I ended getting the clutch kit and just scuffing up my old 225 flywheel (it was not bad after all).

maybe I can get the camera up on the pump to see if I can "hear" any diff as well. A quiet pump is a happy pump. thinking on it some more, maybe just check volume on siphon directly at the tank. that would show the effects of the restriction better than having the variable of the pump and associated lines.

in the interest of science, I did a "cranking vacuum" test. I have never heard of such a thing but read about it somewhere. Thought it would be something to measure and make note of Completely stock NA L-28 manual setup for a 800 rpm idle. Warm up engine to about 150f (indicated on gauge) pull brake boost line and hook up HF vacuum gauge. using remote starter (ign off, plugs in) crank engine for about 10 seconds I get about 7" of hg with no noticeable movement of gauge. maybe 120ft above sea level. throttle plate closed. My normal idling vacuum is about 17-18 a little better if I run the idle mix a bit richer (about 19). I only found out about the richer is better when swapping AFM's one had the idle bypass nearly closed and produced the better idle vacuum. I assume for this test it would not matter since the throttle plate is the restriction not the AFM.

well is simple enough to test, I can run a test, how does this sound current G3 filter (that's been on for 2+ years, hard to say how many gallons though). No filter KLM filter (one in the link) take the line that connects to the eng compartment fuel filter from the pump and put into a measuring vessel. make 3 timed runs and note the volume of fuel. will have to clamp off between each run to account for leakage out of the line if any. Of course this would not take into account long term use (resulting in eventual plugging of the filter media and resulting restriction. but still should be a fun exp. also will have documented for comparisons against future test (like the one CM recommends). if nothing else should be a fun video.

the 6029 is an upgrade in over the 6009. since you are starting with a diff flywheel than stock, I would suggest getting everything from zcardepot, that way they can tell you about fitment of pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Make sure it all bolts up since shipping cost will be high, you want it to work the 1st time.