Dave WM

oh no, its a wedge bolt, you will see when you get it out. precision fit to the two parts. Its a little incomprehensible as to why it get stuck in the 1st place. The slightest movement should set it free.

did you try ZH double nut idea? what you need is some kind of small press like device (puller for ball joints etc...) the thing is once is cracks loose you cant believe it could ever get that stuck. Its not rusted or any other way of corroded on.

I looked at that ad last night, hmm guess it sold, think I saw it on face book.

try cold, invert a can of dust off, aim at the nut, freeze to shrink the nut/pin.

ok so no reverse lock out, think your best bet would be to put a nut back on it and just get as small a tapping device as you can find and start in on it. its wedged in but will come out. you maybe able to get some channel locks in there and see if you can squeeze on it the nut (protect the threads) with a socket on the other side for the pin to press into. I know its a PITA.

IIRC striker rod has to be turned to the extreme CCW (viewed from behind). That will clear out the fork from the shift rods. I assume it has a reverse lockout if you are working on a ZX. this guy just beats the heck of it, then twist the rear section off to release the striker rod from the shift forks.

how about this oil pressure a non issue, sudden consumption on freshly rebuilt engine from a valve stem seal that has popped off? Did we try the high vacuum (down shift while throttle closed) run then suddenly get on it for a cloud of blue smoke after sucking in oil during high vacuum? I would be tempted to pull the valve springs off and at least check to make sure they are all seated.

as long as it does not bottom out you will be ok, if it bottoms out then there is a good possibility that the cart is not firmly captured in the strut. I just did mine had maybe a 2 turns left before it would bottom. the extended shaft should have NO lateral play from the cart moving in the strut. Tip invest in a 24" adjustable wrench, it will have smooth faced jaws. Pipe wrenches are for round steel or cast iron pipe, the jaws are designed to cut into the steel to get a bite. I found the 24" adj to be plenty of power to remove or replace gland nuts on the struts.

wow that is chewed up. If you are using cartridges you should have gotten new ones. and if you do have carts, then it should NOT bottom out

note the clocking CCW if the holes line up with the slots, then that would shift the hole just under the left side of the opening. If I can tweet the fitment of the dash I maybe able to capture both holes (got the bottom one), but I would want to make sure that does not distort the opening around the tach. the bottom screw is located to the far right of the hole (following the slot). I can push the dash over to center it with some force but that would just shift the top hole more under the metal frame. Not a big deal, a little grinding on the frame should take care of it.

I am just not seeing it, will have to pull the dash off and look better, worse case I will install with out, put the tach in and drill my myself. I have dug out all the foam around the opening thru the metal. I did notice you have a lot less foam over the cig lighter than was on mine, at first I was not sure there was metal there at all. it was buried about 1/8" I looked at the vertical slots on my cig holder (obscured by foam in your pic) and I noticed they seemed clocked at about 11:45 with respect to holes in the metal frame. I think my metal insert hole by the tach maybe just under the open hole away from the tach. if that is the case I think the best course of action would be to elongate the frame hole horizontally on both holes so as not to stress the foam/metal bond.

I dug around but could not find it, will look again.

it looks like you have a screw installed there. did you find the hole or did you drill your own?

hole in AFM to TB boot will cause lean run, so don't mess with it until that is fixed. Make sure you have the spring wire inner support inside the boot, keeps it from crimping shut. It looks like a wire hoop that fits INSIDE the boot.

Glove door

seeing the complexity of the dash 1st hand you have to give a lot of credit to the Vintage Dashes people. I hope they are able to continue to come up with products to support the Z community.

check above and below the where the cig lighter recess is. there should be a hole in the metal for the sheet metal screw both above and below. I was missing the hole above the recess.

I am using a donor dash for the metal frame so I can understand how best to install without having to tear apart my car. So let start with removing the old dash pad, there are 21 sheet metal screws that attach to hard points and a few other sheet metal screws that while not actually affixed to the pad, the do stick up into the foam. these should be removed so as not to impede the process. I was able to get19 of the 21 back in, the other two holes I was not able to locate, will have to deal with them after I pull the pad off the donor frame.

21 sheet metal screws into hard points on the dash pad. Observation, while not actually tied to the dash pad, there are sheet metal screws that affix the plastic support for the wire harness. these extend a good bit (maybe 1/4") up into the area covered by the foam of the dash. I think it would be a good idea to not have any sharp points interfering with the dash install so I backed them off and used some masking tape to hold the plastic fixture in place (and the screws as well so I don't have to go hunting them later). Once you clear out the 21 screws the pad comes off pretty easy, prob easier if I had backed of those before mentioned screws. The cigarette lighter is mounted to the actual dash foam parts, so I will be looking into whats involved with getting that off the donor dash and how exactly it mounts.

plastic glove box was a good fit. I will measure the openings later from the OE to the new dash.

I am glad I have the donor dash, will be taking a lot of video to aid in the location of removal screws.

I am going to be taking a very close look at how the glove box door is attached to my donor frame/pad. that should give a good indication of the fidelity of the reproduction at least in that area.

a closer look

unboxing

got it, video soon on my youtube. Here is the fit of the emblem