Dave WM

I will give it a shot.

do you think I could feel anything with the valve spring off, and me manipulating the valve? I did try that to see if I could feel any oddness as it seated. The other thing is the leak down test showed virtually no leakage (listen for it thru the intake manifold brake booster port with a hose). All the cylinders sounded the same.

I am fine with that. already pretty much there. I think you will find the baby boomer gen is ok with this if it can save the economy and prevent a full on depression.

hope the science could define the at risk group. over 60 or comprised with underlying sickness. Gets you quarantined, the rest go about your business, go to spring break, have a party.

we used to have chicken pox parties back in the 50's and 60's when I was a kid. the idea was every kid around would get sick all at once so as not to have a constant stream of sickness. I am not clear on how deadly the cov-19 is, but if it truly is only a real danger to a well defined group (old/sick) then perhaps an argument could be made to hole up all of them for a month, if not working all the better, let the rest of the population go about its life since it seems this virus is bound to infect the world soon enough, everyone get it, gets over it, then release the defined group back. Just a thought, no science no politics, just wondering out loud if this has been discussed by the ones that know the details.

Its obvious, I can hear it inside the car with the window up. Plus I can use the stethoscope, touch each spark plug body, its very noticeable on #5 (IIRC or could have been #6). not there at all on the others. yes did all 6 intakes did not touch the exhaust. Its a real puzzle. The video will help will post that up today after I get it all back together. the only thing I can come up with is: I am just really really not getting the lash set right or I bent a valve with my rubber tube technique. I don't see that as likely but the only possibility left (well short of me dropping something into the cylinder). It sounds like a valve set way loose. I triple checked the lash pads are in place (besides checking both hot and cold lash) already but cant hurt to try again. If this fails I the only thing I need to do to the spare motor is replace the timing chain tight side guide, new timing cover gasket, new rear main seal, new pan gasket, new oil pump gasket. I will leave all the manifold stuff on as I can see no reason to replace it other than my existing setup has the egr, the spare does not, but since its dumb there should be no wiring issue other than an unused water temp switch on the t stat.-

here is the plan. Put it all back together, double check the lash on all valves, bore scope the cylinders, If it still making the noise (will get a video of it with sound) I am just going to pull then engine and put in my spare. The spare runs great, has the MN47 head (higher compression). I don't really want to get into pulling the head with the engine in the car.

oy, still nothing. I removed the rocker arm on the #5 intake, still making the noise. going to give it a rest and double check all the lashes just in case I goofed up and fiddled with an exhaust and forgot about it. Really starting to be bugged by this. I think the next try will be to run it with the cover off, plastic sheet the engine bay and see if I can locate the offending part with a clear (oily) view.

wow, lots of info in this thread.

no way got anything in, I have a bore scope, but I am very sure about this. the mouse trap springs in place. 1 experiment, I removed #6 spring and double checked my work (guide in, valve moves easy, spacer on bottom of spring stack. got an idea, I replaced the springs and keepers, but did NOT reinstall the rocker. disable the injector, start car and of course in missing but still clacking, same noise. So I am very sure it cant be the valves on #6, I did not even touch the exhaust. Since the rocker valves for #5 intake is right next to #6, perhaps its is that one. I am sure it comes from the very rear of the engine. So after the oil drains back some I will replace the rocker on #6 and just remove the rocker on #5 intake, not going to bother going further unless that quiets the noise.

tried it again, def a metallic clanking coming thru on the drive side of the head could pick it out with the stethoscope. I will pull the valve cover off and look over that #6 valve again.

well the leak down test showed nothing out of the ordinary, 90psi in 82-86 out, could hear NOTHING from then intake manifold, it was all the rings. So since the only thing I really changed was the guides and presumably I did not damage the valves, I suppose the most likely issue is something with the guides themselves? is it possible that if the guide pops off its perch it could make a tapping sound? I discounted that idea since they are rubber.

reg compression test shows nothing out of the ordinary, 155-165 low/high. will do a leak down next to see if I can hear anything odd out of the intake.

one thing I did NOT keep up with is the rotation of the lash pads. So I could have installed one 180 out from the orig. I did one valve at a time so the rocker/springs/lashes are all the same. CO yes I did use the valve stem condom to protect the seal from the sharp edge of the valve stem.

well this sux, took it around the block before the curfew starts, loud ticking from what sounds like #5... pull the valve cover. all the lash pads are in place and the hot check of the lash is .010 in .012 ex Darn it. I wonder if its possible to damage a valve. I never exerted any more force that to break the bond on the retainers, Did not turn the crank with any real force to compress the rubber tube. Its pretty loud... So tomorrow I guess I get to do a leak down test and see if I can hear any issues. darn darn darn...

in an attempt to reduce oil consumption (1q 1000 apx) I decided to replace the intake guide seals. I decided to only to the intakes since its not an easy task and I figure the exhaust side would not suck oil anyway. Based on the condition they have been I would think its prob not going to help anyway since the old ones seem pliable, but maybe a bit larger diameter where the valve stem seals. I was going to do a video but that is just too hard to capture so I thought I would share my process. removed the valve cover, and all the plugs. used a 19mm on the camshaft bolt to turn the lobes with the intake lobe straight up, this is past TDC on the piston stroke. used some rubber hose that just fits into the plug hole, then used my seal puller pliers to choke up on it near the plug hole so I can push it in it will not go any more. The pliers help grip in close to the hole so you don't have the hose bending while trying to stuff it in. rotate the camshaft back so the lobes are "bunny ears" this will push the piston up to TDC and really jam the hose up against the valve. I forgot to mention I used the natural bend in the hose and aim for the intake valve. loosen the rockers jam nut and run the pivot all the way down. remove the rocker arm retainer spring, the pry off the rocker from the pivot. I used the 17 mm wrench handy to lift up on the back of the rocker near the pivot. I suppose you could also just depress the valve spring a bit to. Just make sure you keep up with the lash pad. It will prob stay over the valve but stil... with the rocker out of the way use the OHC valve spring compressor, the kind that hooks around the cam shaft (not the lobes) and has a pivot point that allows for downward pressure on the valve spring. You may want to give the top of each valve spring a light smack with a large drift to loosen up the retainers. while depressing the valve springs use a magnet on a stick (small) and retrieve the two retainers. with them out the spring release to its full height. While doing this its a good idea to watch the valve stem it may move downward some, but if the hose was set right it will be very little. the less movement the better since you do not have to depress the spring as much. remove the spring assy (two springs an inner and outer and a cap, keep up with the lash pad (get that out before attempting the retainers with the magnet). watch out for a spacer that sits on the bottom of the spring stack, it prob will stay on the top of the head, but you want to make sure as you remove the springs. now the easy part use the valve stem seal puller pliers to remove the old seal, just grab it mid section and gently pull up. Careful here as the pliers will want to jump up and you are right next to the cam lobe, just don't want to scratch anything. I soaked the new Nissan seals in some motor oil to install, then use the pliers above to push it into place. you can see when it bottoms out. replace the valve springs, setup the spring compressor, replace the retainers (yea just like that, presto). the retainers can be a bit of a pita. I used some hemostats and would set one in place from the driver side, ease up on the compressor while rotating the retainer around so the next one will be easier to go in. A single retainer once set will hold it together while you get the next retainer setup on the hemostats. I tried for a 10/4 or 2/8 position as this was where they were when I started. You may want to look make note of this for yourself. anyway after some fiddling with the second retainer it will just drop in an your are done. replace the rocker and reset the lash. Have fun!!

on mine it was pretty obvious as Diseazd mentioned the key is the get it squared up so the lip on the cable is solid and square to the threaded end of the speedo. if that is good then the nut will retain it in that position. I guess its possible the problem is at the other end so if you are connecting it and its not working, maybe you should try and confirm the cable is turning when the drive shaft is moving.

I struggled with it when I replaced my dash with the vintage dashes. it was tough but eventually I got it all to go in. One of the member here suggested removing the tach from the attached dash, then you should have relative easy access, thru the open tach area. I did not have to do that but maybe worth considering.

New to me anyway, I know they have been out there and others have them. I also got my spare ECU (after being ticked off about my spare that did not work) off ebay. Already plugged in in an works fine.

on my way up that way I will let call and see what you need. My former girl scout wife is all over this..

I am surprised you need to remove the peened area, I assumed it was not really over any threads, and it was only there to prevent backing off from vibration, not an impact driver. Have not done this yet but will use the ZX nuts when I do, good tip.

wow, stuck in a hotel, that is the worst. I hate hotels, cant sleep well just waiting for the sun to come up. Hope you get out of there soon. With everything on lockdown I am thinking I will get to my valve stem seals to see if I can improve on my oil consumption. Its not terrible (1000/qt apprx maybe more maybe less) but it gets to be a pain to have to keep up with it between my 3k mile oil changes. The one thing that I have not looked into on the drive line is the rear bearings, I suppose 45year old grease is subject to break down and something I should look into. I am trying to put together my list for the Florida to Alaska trip. Plan to stock up on a very through supply of critical parts (rad/hose/alt/belts/WP/fuses/starter/ECU/spark modual/tire repair kit......) will add to the list as I think it thru. The plan would be to take a lot of backroads thru the states then the ALCAN highway thru Canada to Alaska. I suppose I should revisit the drawing of defrost lines, I kinda sidelined that project since never needed in Florida. I have the copper paint and resently practiced using black electrical tape as the mask. Getting the right application tool is the problem. trying to not overapply gut still get enough on is the problem.

I was kinda hoping to make the ALCAN run this summer. Maybe have to postpone that one.

everything in the states is viewed thru a political lens, this included wars/natural disasters/and now medical pandemics. Its is unfortunate since the messages are often distorted by who is reporting and what there political bias maybe. The last time I can recall when this was not the case was when Tim Russert was alive. You really never knew where he came down on an issue. And then there is the 24/7 news cycle that needs to be constantly filled, there is only so much news out there. When you hear the same exact talking points being expressed you have to wonder is anyone doing independent investigating or are we just given a script that is to be repeated endlessly. Education is a BIG problem. History is told by the victors, but even then its often retold to fit what ever your team needs to hear. Back to working on my Z something that I can have an effect on.

keep track of how that trip milage reset cable routes. a pic would be best. Seems trivial but can be confusing also note the wire routing around that area, you don't want to have one of the driver side wires (buzzers/door switch) wrapped around something that ends up making them too short to reinstall. Trying to re route AFTER the dash is in in a pita.