Dave WM

does the clunk happen on down shift or up shift? typical clunk sound as drive train is loaded and un loaded is u joints in drive shaft. I read that the diff of a z can rise up in the front as well if mounts are bad (down shift I think), making a clunk sound. Seems best thing to do would be get it on a lift and look for worn parts in drive line and mounts.

no drive line noise, at least no whine if that is what you mean. no smell (maybe I am just used to it). heavy steering as slow speeds, yes. interior is noisy, but no more so than I remember from back in the day when I drove one that was new. did you replace bushings and if so did you go with rubber or PU?

prob just replace the compressor with a spare I have. On you thermostat, IIRC that hard wire on it somehow ties into the slider for heat cold.

yes that's it

hmmm looks like I may have a shaft seal leak, hold pressure just fine but leaks down in a vacuum..

74 is the 1st modern one I think, integrated system that is, thermostat line I am thinking of is tied to a box that is mounted to the cold---------hot lever IIRC. that line just sticks into the fins of the evap. pressure looks good, oil injection went well pulling vac later.

no drop in pressure at all, so I think I have a sealed system, including the manifold hookup. I used my oil injector and put about 1oz in the suction side, then hand spun the compressor to make sure it gets moved around. Tomorrow I will pull a vacuum and see how well that holds. Looking good so far. Not sure about this but there was ZERO oil in the condenser and the drier. I presume the drier could be hard to tell if oil was in there but I would have thought the condenser would have had some. I have read that you should dump the oil out of those parts, measure, and replace.

One more thing, I have a 33318 according to the spec sheets both it and the 33286 have the 3/8 flare fitting and a 1/4 female service port, I did not bother to try and swap in the 33318 since I had the 33286 BUT, seems like the way to go. I have the hard line from a later model that has the top flare for the drier inlet. 33286 nlet Fit 3/8" Inlet Fit Note Male Flare Outlet Fit 3/8" Outlet Fit Note Male Flare Dimensions 8" Lg. x 2-3/4" O.D. Outside Diameter Inches 2-3/4" Body Length 8" Fuse Plug w/ Fuse Plug Sight Glass w/ Sight Glass Sight Glass Yes Switch/Service Port 1/4" Female(1), Sightglass, Fuse Plug 33318 Brand: Four Seasons Part Number: 33318 AAIA Part Type Description: A/C Receiver Drier Body Length: 8-1/2" Dimensions: 8-1/2" Lg. x 2-1/2" O.D. Inlet Fit: 3/8" Inlet Fit Note: Male Flare Marketing Description - 2000: Contains high quality XH9 desiccant 2-7101, 11621561 Outlet Fit: 3/8" Outlet Fit Note: Male Flare Outside Diameter Inches: 2-1/2" Sight Glass: Yes Stock Status: S Switch/Service Port: 1/4" Female get a 33318 of ebay all day delivered for about 15$

video summary

Hopefully you can find a complete donor, all the solenoids etc... lots of little pieces. Do you have the thermostat line that sticks inside the evap coils? would be good to get that in as well while you have it apart.

went out to start a video and ran out of memory on the chip anyway the pressure had dropped about 10psi overnite, so I got the soap water out again and this time noted the leak was around the hose connection to the port on the compressor. duh always check the hoses. I got another hose on it now, no more bubbles (the were very fine before, I prob just did not look hard enough the 1st time. Anyway will let set for the rest of the day and see if that gets it done. number one rule, make sure you equipment is functioning properly before getting too deep into diagnosis.

I did not do a video I thought about it, but its pretty hard to do it when sweating and bleeding. It was SO hot yesterday, yuck. I know folks up north are fighting cold but man its been a hot winter down here. I will prob shoot a bit with my setup on it and how I look for leaks. I got the drier from a local AC shop, Ice cold auto air. I called and they wanted 50 bucks, when I got there to get it they said they made a mistake, 75.. The person at the desk was prob not used to people buying parts. I paid them the 75 anyway, as they cant really be found. the box sas "Gilmore Products" which I looked into, its a wholesale outfit local here in Orlando, but they only sell to shops, no retail. Don't know if they have any more, I could never get that far. My plan is to keep the old one, there is a place in tampa that will cut them open and replace the drying part. IIRC it was about 75-100$ for that service. I did get a cheapo one the has flare fittings up high for the inlet, but I don't think my high pressure cut off would screw in. That's a better fix long term, I even have the copper tube that works with that style, but just did not want to mess with sourcing a new switch and mess with installing the new tube. What would be real nice is if I can get the old one cut open and threaded so its rebuildable with out having to cut and weld.

reg CRT based analog scopes can be picked up pretty cheap, a HP will work well, esp for looking at the waveforms of most car stuff. I have an old DeVry scope that I may even pull out of the attic one day just to see how well it can look a the injector signals. Its a real antique, uses a 5" crt and some 12AX7 tubes in it, which are worth way more to the audiophools than I paid for the scope (5$).

AC stopped working, no Freon left, leaked out thru the old condenser, so todays project was to fix that. remove the air filter (pita) the rubber boot was the hardest part of it, trying to get it off. I ended up undoing it at the AFM and snaking the boot out the hole in the rad support. After I got it out I decided to go ahead and get that booger off, them put some soap on it to make it easy to re install. Put that a side and on to the 4 bolts that hold the cond/rad (same bolts). loosen the connection at the condenser, the one on the driver side requires un bolting the AFM and moving it aside (leave wire harness on). use a some open end (22/24) stubby wrenchs let me got that off. the passenger was different one was smaller, the on to the drier. Got the all disconnected, removed the condenser from the front no need to remove hood btw. drier was easy, loosed the screw that clamps it, un hook the high pressure switch, remove. The switch was sealed with Teflon tape, so I did the same more on that later. installed the new OE condenser and new drier (yes the hard to find one), put some oil on the flange fittings and bolted all back up. Pull a vacuum and it will not hold, darn. Break out the Nitrogen and pressurize it to about 120 psi, get out the handy soap water pump sprayer and go over everything. Darn switch at the drier. so I tighten it more than I thought needed and if finally stopped making bubbles. Going to let it sit overnite. If it leaks I think I will use some thread locker blue and see if that makes for a better sealant on those threads. Frankly I did not think any sealer should be needed (this is only on the switch not the flange types on the actual hoses, those are just oiled with some AC ref oil). We will see if it holds if so off to a shop for the Freon (R12). after removing the old condenser I saw several oily spots. Hope it all goes well, been a hot winter so far, tired of sweating out rides. couple hrs later, has not budged, I bumped it up to about 160psi. I much prefer using pressure to check for leaks vs pulling a vacuum.

simpson 260

Injector ticking? listen to it compare to others Spark plug firing, put fresh plug on wire and lay on top of valve cover to confirm. I adjust valves cold, also do a compression check.

I applaud you getting it all done, just one thing. Try it between each thing, try after plugs then try again after ECU clean, again after any other corrective actions. The idea is not to create a new problem, not likely but possible. so if the plugs get it working, then do the ECU, should still work, etc... Also assuming you get it going, check the plugs again after say 20-30 miles on it. You want to see if the fouling is due to a chronic long term slightly rich OR something drastic that will cause issues quickly. If the latter then you know you still have problem, the former, just keep in mind to check plugs maybe after 1 year as it may not be a problem at all.

If they are wet fuel fouled already, confrim CSV operation per manual if that checks confrim TPS. of couse confrim the Fuel pressure. Temp sensor check at ECU for resistance at coolant temps if still not right, try manually moving the AFM vane (cover off) to see if you can get the idle to work right. all of the above assumes too rich a fuel mix. I had an intermittent mix issue that resolved when I swapped the EFI, then swapped back and it was fine again. So unplug the EFI and plug in again (if you dont have a spare to try). You may have done all this already, as the thread is getting long.

Well suggest you pull them now and get some pics. this will help with diagnosing. I always start with new plugs and then run a short time then read.

thead is getting long, did you get a reading on the new plugs?

use extreme care with ramps. I always have a backup like a spare tire or large blocks of wood under the body/frame just in case there is an issue with ramps. make sure car is chocked so it can roll if you are using on the back.

with that history I doubt any of that is it issue. New plugs will resolve the running issue, just need to check them after a few hours and make sure nothing drastic. It could be a simple a how you drive the car. If you do lots of slow speed low rpm loafing the plugs may just be fouling due to that.

Wires will be fine, same with rotor cap, those last a very long time. I am sure the problems the plugs, how they got that way and how long it took is the issue. I check wires by looking at them with the engine running at night, look for arcing to the engine. If they don't do that AND if the look in good shape then the are prob fine. inspecting the rotor cover is easy look for carbon tracks and crack if none, its ok. Diagnosing the issue is the way to determine what needs to be fixed or replaced. No points on the electronic ign, should be ok unless you are getting a weak spark, which is easy to test (look at spark while cranking is it strong?) so if that is good then move on to mixture issue (if dry fouled). New plugs and a quick reading will confirm dry foul or oil fouled. If dry fouled and ign ruled out then its a mixture issue (assuming air filer is good) next up would be to find out why mixture is out. Could be a leaking CSV, fuel pressure, injector or a temp sensor, TPS, ECU or wiring. if oil fouled could be oil control rings, valve oil seals, valve guides. What you don't want to do is start replacing stuff hoping to find the issue. Replacing stuff just add variables that have to be considered (was the replacement done right). saw the post above, if you want to replace to be sure, that is ok since $ is so low, just not how I do it. when I say look in good shape that is a subjective term, if you don't have a lot of exp with evaluating then its prob safer to replace, but after replacing I would expect them to last for at least a few years.

easy but messy. beside gas pouring all over you while you do it, sometimes the hoses can be hard and difficult to remove (leak yes remove not so easy). Also its hard to get at them since the car is so low. So best bet is let someone do it for you, the process is get the car jacked up at the rear, using whatever make you feel safe, and protect the car from clumsy jack points. After you get some working room, remove and discard those hose clamps, use a utilty knife to slice hose (not finger) lengthwise along the connection to the tank, this will allow the hose to be removed without undo stress to the tank. then new hoses, with good fuel clamp, I prefer the stock kind or fuel injector kind, any thing that does not chew into the hose. Its not hard but for the access and mess. I have a new lines on hand and ready to install quickly to minimize the mess. Have some rags handy and a fire extinguisher near by.