sweatybetty

no door plate

how do you figure the build date from the serial #? thanks all sb

try entering "automotive rubber grommets" in your search engine http://www.rakuten.com/prod/125pc-rubber-grommet-plug-assortment-includes-solid-plugs-automotive/277183646.html?listingid=498744622 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/wilmar-125-piece-rubber-grommet-hardware-kit-wlmw5214/99984347-P http://www.steelerubber.com/firewall-grommets http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/produkte_1/electrical/rubbergrommets/rubbergrommets.php

sound like the warning switch is bad. there is a part inside the kind of floats in the center. in your case that part should have moved toward the rear brake side and closed off fluid to the rear brakes. if your fronts didnt work, that tells me that part is stuck in the center. did the brake warning light come on?

the weather here is still holding out on the cold, wet side. perfect for painting. i have only painted 1 other car before, and that was with single stage paint. this is a base-clear, so it is a kind of practice session, so i decided to do the engine bay first. the base went on a bit dry, so there is some orange peel. over-all i am pleased. the body comes next week-end. base coat before clear after clear (sorry for the blurry pic)

2500-3000 my opinion

i wondered about that, but it makes sense. great idea. why not go all the way up to the bottom of the radiator support?

on my 72, there is sealer between the panels i dont know how they managed to do this and then spot weld without burning the sealer? i replaced the pans and sealed the outside and then did the inside with bedliner. my 2 cents

once again http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

anyone tried these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-280-fits-R180-open-diffs-Limited-Slip-Differential-Conversion-Kit-/262292336254?hash=item3d11d76e7e:g:gyMAAOSwnDZT9CVj&vxp=mtr

im not concerned with that happening in my lifetime anyways. the sandblaster did a great job on the cowl. it was free of paint and rust, leaving a fairly rough surface, perfect for this stuff to adhere to. i can pretty much guarantee it will never fail or rust. we use this stuff at work for sealing metal roof penetrations and have yet to see it fail when properly applied.

headlight surrounds (fiberglass) repaired and epoxied. they both had several cracks and the lh side mounting holes were broken.

sell it to someone and buy an aftermarket universal harness. my 2 cents

i would like a link to that stuff also. looks excellent.

http://www.tremcosealants.com/products/vulkem-801.aspx basically liquid rubber.

which way are they supposed to be?

well it has been a while since i posted anything, but i have gotten quite a bit done. the body and doors are ready for paint. i hope to have that done in the next couple of weeks before the weather warms up and the bugs come out all bodywork done, and black epoxy applied before primer and blocking primer over black epoxy block sanding. the darker area is guide-cote by 3M. it leaves a dark spot in any low spot while sanding. those few spots get filled with glazing putty and re-sanded new battery tray all welded up cowl area rubber sealed. there wasnt any rust here but this stuff will seal against any leaks

do some reading here https://www.autobody101.com/forums/ lots of very good advice

i can lift the front end of my car easily. it is a rolling chassis, nothing else. i would guess 6-700 pound range

95% of all electrical problems are related to a bad ground or corroded connections

im curious as to why the strut isnt just attached to the part that this bracket is attached to. any ideas? thanks all sb

hello all! things have slowed a bit, but i have gotten quite a bit done. ordered and installed the lower quarters and the center section above the tail lights. i bought these parts from tabco, and they did need trimming for a good fit. all in all, they fit ok. im just about done with the body work and should have another coat of epoxy and then primer by next weekend. thanks all sb rear hatch piece. this was a pita to get fit correctly lower quarter before and after and all smoothed out

is this the correct bracket for the rear hatch strut? it looks like an add-on to me. it a 72 240. thanks all sb

seems the easy fix would be to drill out the end holes just a bit. might allow enough room for expansion without shearing off the stud. do these studs go into the water jacket? . BTW, the Nissan-sanctioned explanation that the end studs break off because the manifold expands as it gets up to operating temperature is interesting. The hole in the manifold flange for the stud measures 0.56 diameter, while the max diameter of the 8mm stud is 0.33" (8.34mm). If the hole is centred over the stud when the manifold is dropped in place (maybe a bad assumption), that would allow about 0.1" of radial clearance before wall of the manifold hole comes into contact with stud. That suggests that the exhaust manifold must be expanding lengthwise to the tune of 0.08" - 0.12" at each end (or by up to 0.24" from front to rear!). That seems hard to believe. Maybe it's more a question of manifold fore-aft misalignment during assembly?

my question would be: why mess with it? unless there was an exhaust leak (you really dont state what the problem is) i would just leave it alone. i have an old dodge power wagon with a couple of the exhaust manifold studs broken off and everything works fine. why take the chance of making things worse if there is no real problem (other than a broken stud) to start with?